On one of the tie points nearest the deck is a disc capacitor. One leg to this tie point, one leg grounded. This tie point will also have a wire on it that disappears into a hole in the deck. That tie point is where one end of the plate choke is attached, where the wire and the disc cap meet.
The part is a coil, not really a resistor. The difference is in the type of wire, mostly. A wirewound resistor is made from wire that has a LOT of resistance per foot. A choke coil is typically would with copper wire.
If you have a junker amplifier handy that used sweep-type tubes like this one, that may be faster than tracking down the part I mentioned. A plate choke found in a junker will probably serve as a substitute.
Ohmite company makes resistors, and was a brand that was stocked by thousands of small, local electronics parts distributors. Those small outfits have nearly all become extinct in the last 15 years as consumer-electronics devices all became throwaways, one by one. It used to be fairly simple to have the local guy order ceramic-body RF chokes made by Ohmite. They look like a resistor, since they are made on the same equipment. The Ohmite part number "Z-28" is a nearly universal part used by thousands of basement "leenyar builders" for decades. What made them so popular is that they are wound from an "in-between" sort of resistance wire. This made them perform a little better than a choke wound with plain copper wire.
Odds are that if you can cannibalize a used RF choke from a junker, that it will be close enough to do the job. Ordering "just one" of any part is an uphill struggle, when there's nobody local to go to.
Oh, and the burned choke is usually caused by one or more problems:
1) Bad (or wrong) driver tube
2) Rear-mounted "Driver tune" knob NOT peaked.
3) Too much radio carrier on
AM, or just plain TOO MUCH RADIO. A modern 2-final radio delivers roughly twice what a legal 23-channel would do. And that's what the designers of the Skipper designed it to work with, much smaller radios that rarely got past 20 Watts PEP.
Or all of the above, sometimes.
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