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  #11  
Old 06-01-2005, 11:51 PM
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Ok, 1.YES the Wirewound Resistor was mounted on the tie strip! I can see where i unsoldered it from 15 years ago
2. Yes there is a bead on the lead to the cap
3. Any idea WHERE the other end of the Wirewound goes ?
I take it a 10 or 100ohm Wirewound would not be correct ?
Guess I'll have to figure out what a Ohmite type Z-28 is

Thanks for the info!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadradio
Uh, a "wirewound resistor" ?

Was it mounted on a tie strip parallel to the driver tube where the plate cap's wire connects?

If so, this was the plate choke. An Ohmite type Z-28 works for that one. Don't think there's a specimen here to serve as a "photo model".

And if there is no parasitic choke, made from a wire with a few turns around a 47-ohm resistor, your Skipper may have had a tiny ferrite bead slipped over the wire to the plate cap. If the bead is still there, it will do the job. Until it overheats, cracks in half and disappears.

If yours already did this, there will typically be no trace that it was ever there in the first place. Winding 4 or 5 turns of #22 or #24 wire around a 47-ohm 2-Watt resistor will take its place, and probably last longer.

My experience has been that the driver tube will go nuts and smoke the driver plate choke if it oscillates. If the original ferrite bead is no longer there, the tube is likelier to misbehave this way.

Palomar would use these tiny ferrite beads, slipped over the plate-cap wire in place of the more-typical coil-on-a-resistor choke coil. They worked okay until the first time they got hot, would crack and fall off. Forever.

And it seemed like such a clever idea when they first started doing that around '77 or '78. Until they started falling off the wire and disappearing. The coil-on-a-resistor "parasitic" choke just holds up better.

73


73
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2005, 10:53 PM
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On one of the tie points nearest the deck is a disc capacitor. One leg to this tie point, one leg grounded. This tie point will also have a wire on it that disappears into a hole in the deck. That tie point is where one end of the plate choke is attached, where the wire and the disc cap meet.

The part is a coil, not really a resistor. The difference is in the type of wire, mostly. A wirewound resistor is made from wire that has a LOT of resistance per foot. A choke coil is typically would with copper wire.

If you have a junker amplifier handy that used sweep-type tubes like this one, that may be faster than tracking down the part I mentioned. A plate choke found in a junker will probably serve as a substitute.

Ohmite company makes resistors, and was a brand that was stocked by thousands of small, local electronics parts distributors. Those small outfits have nearly all become extinct in the last 15 years as consumer-electronics devices all became throwaways, one by one. It used to be fairly simple to have the local guy order ceramic-body RF chokes made by Ohmite. They look like a resistor, since they are made on the same equipment. The Ohmite part number "Z-28" is a nearly universal part used by thousands of basement "leenyar builders" for decades. What made them so popular is that they are wound from an "in-between" sort of resistance wire. This made them perform a little better than a choke wound with plain copper wire.

Odds are that if you can cannibalize a used RF choke from a junker, that it will be close enough to do the job. Ordering "just one" of any part is an uphill struggle, when there's nobody local to go to.

Oh, and the burned choke is usually caused by one or more problems:

1) Bad (or wrong) driver tube
2) Rear-mounted "Driver tune" knob NOT peaked.
3) Too much radio carrier on AM, or just plain TOO MUCH RADIO. A modern 2-final radio delivers roughly twice what a legal 23-channel would do. And that's what the designers of the Skipper designed it to work with, much smaller radios that rarely got past 20 Watts PEP.

Or all of the above, sometimes.

73
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  #13  
Old 06-03-2005, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadradio
Oh, and the burned choke is usually caused by one or more problems:

1) Bad (or wrong) driver tube
2) Rear-mounted "Driver tune" knob NOT peaked.
3) Too much radio carrier on AM, or just plain TOO MUCH RADIO. A modern 2-final radio delivers roughly twice what a legal 23-channel would do. And that's what the designers of the Skipper designed it to work with, much smaller radios that rarely got past 20 Watts PEP.

Or all of the above, sometimes.

73
You've been very helpfull! Thank you.
and the correct answer in my case would be #3 Too Much Carrier

thanks again!
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  #14  
Old 06-08-2005, 09:28 PM
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2005, 10:44 AM
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Default Whats Up with that

Guess my pics were not good enough LOL
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  #16  
Old 06-11-2005, 05:04 AM
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Default Re: Whats Up with that

Quote:
Originally Posted by 454 In The Yard
Guess my pics were not good enough LOL
Zup 454! What pics - did you post pics?
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Old 06-11-2005, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:23 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
wow.....nice collection 454!! More boat anchors!!!!!!


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  #18  
Old 06-11-2005, 06:15 AM
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454 Driver






454 Project Maverick 250 Custom



454 Project 2 Single 3-500z

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  #19  
Old 09-12-2005, 09:59 PM
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New to this forum, but sure em enjoying it. I started in CB back in 1958, and have been in it since. Still have a great deal of my old radios, for keep sakes of years gone by. Started with Johnson, and Lafette, then came Comstat and Courier, Golden Eagle, and on upward to the 10 meters, pinning the pll and wow, CB radio. Now I am just an old 64 year old CB'er, who talks very late at night so I don't mess up the houses around me. Have no fear you out there in skip land, CB is comming back, but with more channels, more power, bigger ant.s. GOD BLESS YOU ALL " UNDERTAKER " WILD E. COYOTE or better known today as just plain " DIXIE "
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2008, 02:30 PM
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WOW nice. top notch boxes there 454.
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