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  #9  
Old 09-11-2008, 08:29 AM
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Is that the one he was fuming about last week?

If you need it worked on I can put you in contact with a couple guys. One of which worked for the original Dave, not this new guy.
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:53 PM
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thanks for the offer FM.

if you happen to talk to either of those gentlemen, you might ask them if there is a certain way that "they" would convert it back. (like, the davemade way or something LOL)

i already have an idea for the keying circuit if they dont come up with anything, so, no biggie either way.

thanks for the help,
LC

PS-yes, its the same amp.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:07 PM
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the key circuit is only a 5 amp dpdt relay/2n2222a transistor/a small value gemanium diode and a 7 to 10 pf silver dipped mica cap for sensing rf voltage. total less than $10 at ratshack.

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Old 09-11-2008, 03:18 PM
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thanks MM!

hopefully will be getting the amp by next week some time.

anyone have any suggestions, tips, ideas, stories etc, about using two car batteries in the trunk to power the amp?

since ive had problems in the past with this vehicle and using an amp in it, i want to use separate batteries just for the amp instead of powering it with the vehicles electrical system.

but ive never done an amp install like this and am very open to hearing about how it has been done in the past.

4x2879 davemade amp
uniden PC78xl will be the driver. (am going to use stock final, and just do the RC/NPC mod to it.((dont need opinions on this mod thanks LOL)))
two car batteries, both the same kind, bought at the same time.
wilson 1000 antenna on the roof of the car.


thanks!
LC
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:55 PM
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LC,

Remember the big long post I made on the other site? Start there and feel free to ask lots of questions.

Braided ground strap, 6 gauge cable, copper ring terminals, solder all connections.
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:59 PM
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FM,

way ahead of ya! LOL
thanks,
LC
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Old 09-14-2008, 12:08 AM
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FM,

ive been reading and researching about ground loops and such for a few days now, and i have to say i have found some very interesting stuff!

while reading on a ham forum, i ran across a guy who has been dealing with RF grounds and mobile installations his whole working life.

he said the same thing you did about running the negative wire of the radio right to the battery terminal, but not running the amp's negative to the terminal.

not sure if you know the "why", but he said its because the radio's negative lead is isolated from the chassis, so its ok to go to the terminal.

however, with the amp, (or most ham transceivers), the negative lead is tied to the chassis, and therefore needs to be at the same potential as the shield of the antenna coax.
therefore, connecting the negative lead of the amp to the vehicle body puts it at the same potential as the antenna coax shield.
makes sense to me!

i am learning alot, and just wanted to let you know i found someone "in the know" about this stuff who agreed with you.

cant wait to get the amp and try some of this stuff!

later,
LC
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Old 09-14-2008, 12:11 AM
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Wow and explained in plain English too.
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