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considering an M400 starduster. whats the deal?

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  #11  
Old 09-03-2009, 10:13 PM
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dont forget . you can put a coil and a top hat on it and .......... well ............. nevermind .

never herd bad things about the old starduster . replacing its hardware with SS is always recomended , but i know you know that . im sure at some point marconi will see this thread . i wonder if hed suggest two coax chokes on it , one at the feed point and one 9 feet below , or just one ?
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2009, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOTY MONSTER View Post
dont forget . you can put a coil and a top hat on it and .......... well ............. nevermind .

never herd bad things about the old starduster . replacing its hardware with SS is always recomended , but i know you know that . im sure at some point marconi will see this thread . i wonder if hed suggest two coax chokes on it , one at the feed point and one 9 feet below , or just one ?

Funny!

Why two chokes though, and why 9 feet? A 1/4 wave of coax at 27 MHz isn't 9 feet...


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  #13  
Old 09-04-2009, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOTY MONSTER View Post
dont forget . you can put a coil and a top hat on it and .......... well ............. nevermind .

never herd bad things about the old starduster . replacing its hardware with SS is always recomended , but i know you know that . im sure at some point marconi will see this thread . i wonder if hed suggest two coax chokes on it , one at the feed point and one 9 feet below , or just one ?
Well BM, you can't add a choke at the FP on the Starduster inself, due to the design, but in your design similar to the Merlin YES---if needed I would added chokes as you note.

In my last work recently with my Marconi I removed the bazooka balun that I had previously attached and the antenna really seemed to work just as well without the 1/4 wave sleeved balun. I have changed my mind a little on this issue with the SD'r needing such feed line shielding, but before I get all categorical on you guys regarding this new idea for me, I will need to be more convinced and do more testing. At the moment I'm not doing any antenna work. I have my Avanti Sigma IV up about 40' to the base and it is working well for me getting back on-air.

I have not reported my recent testing results to the Internet yet, but maybe I will do that soon. I really wanted to compare a Merlin to a couple of my better performers, but I was not able to get one without buying the antenna new. I can say that the Marconi X6 that I built recently with 6-102" 1/4 wave GP elements and a 102" radiator, using a mobile L-bracket, and a A99 hub preformed very well when compared to my A99, Imax, AstroPlane, and my I-10.

Issues like CMC and chokes are complicated and without some complicated testing of cause and effect their use is arguable. BM what are you basing your need for such modifications to your particular antenna?
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Old 09-05-2009, 04:04 PM
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the more i think about it, the more i think that a choke balun, or a bunch of ferrite at the feedpoint might be beneficial with this antenna simply because we are feeding a balanced antenna with an unbalanced feedline.

it is a balanced antenna isnt it?
i hope im right on that. LOL

maybe thats why they want the coax to go up through the mounting pole.

hmmmm...

there is a part in the manual that says the mast should be over 10 feet long.
why would they put that in there?

hmmm...

were they thinking the same thing you were Marconi?
about the sleeve balun idea i mean.

so, if we decide that we need a balun; the question becomes where?

yes, a choke balun at the feedpoint is impractical because of the design, but what about snap on ferrite chokes? 10-15 of those might work.

do we want to stop the currents at the feedpoint or do we want that first 1/4 wave of coax to "radiate" so to speak.

marconi, i am very interested in your opinion about isolating this antenna from the support structure.

could this antenna be mounted with plastic/fiberglass mounting pole?
does it need that first 10 feet of metal?

can we agree that this antenna is in essence a quarter wave vertical dipole and then base our theories off that?
if its not, what is it?

thanks to all who have participated in this discussion. i am a big fan of beating a subject into the dirt, and i suppose this thread should be no different. LOL
LC
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2009, 03:53 AM
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I agree LC that the Marconi X6 that I built recently (2009) is maybe a bit more balanced than the original SD'r simply because the Marconi uses all 102" elements and the Starduster is fed a bit off center. Now with this information I can only guess as to the effects on pattern and that there are likely some differences. I am not able to actually measure the results, but if I could that might suggest some technical differences. When operating purely as a radio operator, I could see no differences with the limited testing I have done recently. More must be done and I may try that this fall.


I consider both antennas to be vertical 1/2 wave dipole antennas, but I would not argue with someone calling them a 1/4 wave ground plane with slanted down GP radials either. Both of these antennas appear to be balanced or somewhat balanced, but I can't define this small physical difference as it might apply to performance. BTW, I did not do Field Strength testing and that may have been a good thing to include. My goals in building the Marconi was to make comparisons as I added GP radials to the antenna and see what affects that it also had on tune and resonance.

For years I figured the purpose of running the coax down the center of the support pipe to be a feed line shielding advantage with the Starduster and still do. The old Avanti Sigma IV also configured a mount that allowed for a sleeved mount as well---so there must be some importance in the idea.

Some years ago (late 80's) a CB buddy came up with an idea he read in an ARRL article entitled “An Analysis of the Balun” and a discussion of a Bazooka Balun (sleeved). This article can be located on the Internet. His idea was to make the 10’ SD’r mast section a true 1/4 wave length and use a barrel connector and a tuned 1/4 wave jumper from the feed point to the base of the tuned mast where the shield was then directly attached using a hose clamp to a grounded supporting mast or tower. We did not isolate the top of this mast at the hub however, so I'm not sure how much, if any, good this idea really was. But, based simply on my buddies on-air results of reducing his TVI we really believed there were improvements to be made with the idea. I later mounted my own SD’r and discovered while using a mobile Field Strength meter directly below my Starduster antenna---that when TX'ing the FS meter indicated full scale while my buddies SD'r did not make the meter even budge. Only difference was the modification he made to the mast and feed point connection. We were not aware of any other noticeable differences in performance as both antennas worked exceedingly well---even when compared to other buddies larger and more up-to-date antennas in the Houston area. Back then however we did not really do antenna testing or comparing as a rule. Soon after I modified my SD’r and I saw the same results using the FS meter---regarding the TVI as my buddy did.

Some time later I was made aware of a patent related directly to the ideas we used and maybe even the principles used by the creator of the Starduster antenna back in the early days of CB radio. You can reference this patent at the US Patent Website see Patent # 2,184,729 which is dated in 1937. Click on: http://patft.uspto.gov/. So the concerns for destructive radiation on the feed line with a vertical dipole or any vertical antenna with a counterpoise system was evident even back then.

Concerning the over 10’ mast issue in the manual you mention LC, I can’t recall ever seeing a real manual for the SD’r. I could be wrong though, so could you post a link or the text of the manual you referenced?

I’m also not sure how to really determine how or why we need a balun or choke on a verticle, but I hear CB’rs say all the time that they know exactly what is going on and some are quite categorical about their claims. I’m still waiting for a definitive and convincing answer though.

Concerning isolation of an antenna from the supporting mast. There are many arguments on this issue and I’m still not convinced that I can discuss the issue with confidence. I did conduct a test on one of my A99’s and I did the same when I installed my I-10K. I think I could see some improvement in the performance of my A99, but it was not significant---nothing like my friend Bob95 noted when he insulated an A99 for a neighbor. However, I insulated the brackets from my mast and left the antenna mounted to the side of the mast and not above the mast like Bob85 and Multimode 200 did. So, to be fair that could have made the difference.

At the time I was testing and comparing here, the conditions were mixed with some DX at times and the local conditions varied considerably in my area out to at least 50 miles. I did not try and test with DX rolling, but I did make some observations under those conditions.

At first I tried comparison testing using only one antenna setup using the same mount, line, and radio. When testing I tuned all antennas as best I could to 27.205 mHz. That was just a control measure for me, but in doing so I could notice RX changes due to changes in tune and for me that was somewhat remarkable and I have never observed that before. I may discuss this later after I have compiled all of my results in my mind and on paper, but in the mean time you can check out what Bob85 has posted regarding similar experiences with his modified Vector 4000 in the past. I refer to that process as a Super Tune, but I'm not sure about how it really applies to performance. You might check the forum for clarification of Bob's work and see what that is all about. Bob85 carried his work well beyond mine with regards to performance in his area of the radio world. I was disappointed of course, but in our discussions on the issue we concluded with the possibility that the very high conductive soil in my area make be mitigating the responses among the different antennas I tested. Had I tested over poor, very poor, or extremently poor soil, I likely would see very different results.

Since I only considered RX signals as reliable for my work, I make no claims regarding the Super Tune having a positive affect on TX, but I believe Bob when he tells me of his experiences. So LC, regarding insulation and this Super Tune idea---I still need more convincing and more work. When I do post some of my Signal Reports you can check for what I saw during the hours and hours of testing I did. I have to add Field Strength testing the next time I test.

You have to consider that my work recently was just what it is and nothing more. I use to think that my results had to be similar in all areas, but that is far from correct. Mother nature and Mother Earth exert a profound affect of RF and how and why antennas respond as they do. That might help explain all of the different results we hear all the time.

LC you post: “can we agree that this antenna is in essence a quarter wave vertical dipole and then base our theories off that? if its not, what is it?” Do you mean ½ wave vertical dipole? See above where I discuss this issue.

My thoughts on all ideas of others are---CAN I DUPLICATE THOSE RESULTS AND DO I HAVE ENOUGH INFORMATION TO TRY! In the past it has been almost universally impossible to try, because of a lack of good information regarding process. I attribute much of that to BS ideas unfortunately.
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  #16  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:04 PM
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yes marconi, LOL i meant 1/2 wave vertical dipole.

you said that the starduster is fed a bit off center?
are you saying this because the top radiator is a bit shorter than 108"?

looking at the owners manual, i get the finished length of the top radiator at about 101" give or take.

the radials, however, are 107" long, which says to me that this antenna is not fed off-center, but that the small radials on the top element form a capacity hat, thereby reducing the main radiators length.

lou franklin says that this also lowers the take-off angle in his book "understanding and repairing CB radios".

im interested to hear your thoughts on this.

as for the owners manual, here is a link:
http://www.cbtricks.com/ant_manuals/...rduster_om.pdf

the part about the mast needing to be metal and at least 10 feet long is in the first paragraph, in the upper right portion of the page, right under where it says, "omni-directional center fed vertical antenna".


about the choke balun; we know that when erecting a vertical dipole, you shouldnt run the coax down the mast parallel with the "ground" element of the dipole. when this is done, currents are induced onto the shield of the coax.
it should be run out perpendicular (90*) from the antenna elements.
meaning that the coax will be horizontal to the ground for at least a quarter wavelength.

maybe this is why A/S wants the coax to be inside the tube.

hmmmm...

i am currently reading up on vertical dipoles and sleeve baluns.

hope to know more by tomorrow.

thanks for your interest!
LC
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:30 PM
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dontya just love it when you learn new things and they just create more questions? LOL

after reading numerous threads about this stuff, as well as other articles online;
im not sure if this antenna is a vertical dipole, or a 1/4 wave groundplane antenna, or what!

for example, to make a vertical "bazooka" antenna; you peel back about a 1/4 wavelength of the coax shield.

if the starduster didnt have the drooping radials; i would say thats what the antenna is. a vertical bazooka type antenna.

but then, why the need for the drooping radials?
if its a 1/4 wave groundplane antenna, then why the "sleeve", or "bazooka" formed by the metal mast?

i sure hope we get somewhere with this!
LC
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  #18  
Old 09-07-2009, 03:23 AM
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From looking at the assembly instructions, this thing is a vertical, center fed, half wave length antenna. Or, just another 1/4 w groundplane type with really droopy radials. That depends on if that 'large hub' provides any insulation between the radiator above it and the radials and mounting pipe. I would assume that it does, or the whole thing would be just one 'electrical' piece and a terrible antenna.
I don't think I'd confuse things by describing any part of this thing as a 'bazooka'. That indicates a completely different antenna and feeding system. The coax may go through that pipe, but since the radials appear to be insulated from that pipe, the pipe is just to support the hub, not really a part of the antenna as such.
Without getting my hands on one that's about as much as I can 'guess' from the assembly instructions. It appears to be ust another 1/4 w groundplane type antenna of a slightly different shape. And all 1/4 w groundplane type antennas are the same as a vertical dipole, just in a slightly different shape.
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  #19  
Old 09-07-2009, 03:58 AM
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Doc, I thought this antenna was a droopy 1/4 wave vertical too. If it is 1/2 wave dipole by effect - I couldn't say. I don't know much about antennas as I should for a Ham. I'm glad that being a Ham is really a learning process...

I know that I got the IMAX from so many great reports on eHam - as well as other web pages. I almost bought the StarDuster because of the price and its great reputation. The fact that Palco Elec. has them for a really fair price makes it an attractive and effective choice. The IMAX I bought eight months ago from Palco for $85 is now selling for $95. Probably the effect of inflation in that time period - or they are more popular now. Maybe both. But if I had to budget myself and wanted an antenna with a great reputation, I would have gotten the StarDuster. It was close.
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  #20  
Old 09-07-2009, 02:24 PM
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Just for grins, take one 1/4 w groundplane antenna. Fold the radials so that they are parallel to, and the other direction of that vertical part. Looks a whole lot like a 1/2 w dipole if you turn it sideways. Same dimensions most of the time.
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