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All things CB. Discuss what you do with your CB as well as review and ask questions about AM & SSB CB radios. |  | 
05-14-2008, 11:40 PM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Cornpatch of Iowa
Posts: 76
| | Clarifier unlock on a Uniden Pro 810e AM/SSB? Heya folks, just needing some info on how to properly unlock a Uniden Pro 810E AM/ SSB base, picked one up off Ebay that's near minty condition.
Many websites say to clip D25 and D32, cut traces to each side on the clarifier pot, and tie one side to +8V and the other to PCB ground, but when I clip D32 it puts a 60 cycle hum on my TX and RX. D32 looks like it isn't really located near the clarifier circuit, so I reconnected it, and everything works fine.
Anyone have any suggestions on how I can mod the clarifier on this radio? Any help/info/links would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!  | 
05-17-2008, 02:31 AM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Cornpatch of Iowa
Posts: 76
| | Problem resolved. | 
05-19-2008, 10:14 AM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,179
| | not going to let us in on it huh ?  | 
05-28-2008, 03:35 AM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Cornpatch of Iowa
Posts: 76
| | Well, I can if you want me too.... LOL Didn't think anyone would really need this mod, since this model is not very sought after.
The original clarifier mod:
Remove D25 and R119, cut traces on both sides of the clarifier control, solder a wire from one side of the clarifier control pot to ground, solder a wire from the other side of the clarifier control to a regulated +8V source (usually IC4). Find the +8V using a voltmeter. Re-align the modes by adjusting L15, L16, and L17.
I did all that, but I changed a few things, as I needed to slide more than 5kc back so I could run the correct frequencies above channel 40.
I changed out X1, the mixing crystal to a 10.240 mhz, replacing the 10.2417 mhz crystal. Replaced D23 (the varactor diode, or varicap as some people call it) to a different diode that provides more slide (the ones out of a Cobra 148 work perfect). Added a 3.3uf electrolytic capacitor between the center wiper of the clarifier pot to ground, to provide smoother, more linear clarifier operation. Saturated D23 and a small area around D23 with candlewax to reduce drifting. (The varactor diodes tend to be temperature sensitive.)
Presto! We now have an open clarifier that slides about 7 kc total. Perfect for my needs, I have my 5kc I need, plus 1kc extra in each direction. It's rock solid on stability, works great.
-Exit | 
05-28-2008, 08:47 AM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,179
| | Well , maybe in the future , you just helped somebody else 13  or we could only hope.  | 
05-31-2008, 03:12 PM
| | Junior Member | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: near Reading, PA
Posts: 5
| | Thanks ExitThirteen!
I picked up a used (but very nice) Uniden Pro-810e a few months back and will probably make the clarifier mod in the future. I think a lot of people shy away from the 810e because the mods are a bit complicated, but the receiver is very nice and the transmitted audio is excellent. Thanks Again!! | 
05-31-2008, 04:30 PM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Cornpatch of Iowa
Posts: 76
| | Heya Ronin,
If you are going to have extra channels put in, are you going to have a Galaxy or Expo kit installed, or are you going to have the PLL chip swapped out? If you decide to do the PLL chipswitch, let me know, I can give you instructions for that also. Cheers!
ALso, L15 = AM, L16 = USB, L17 = LSB when re-aligning the clarifier in all modes.
-Exit
Last edited by ExitThirteen; 05-31-2008 at 06:05 PM.
| 
05-31-2008, 09:53 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,179
| | on that subject , I'd say go all the way with the Galaxy N Kit , reason ? They are much more stable then the Expo N cystal kits !! they are truly a bitch when it comes to getting them stabilized . (for me anyway)
The Galaxy N Kit's only give you the upper channel freq's but very stable ! and easy to install. They use IC's rather then crystals. I look at it this way , most SSB activity is on the upper freeband anyway , were the lower ones seem more AM
oriented . See that 13 , you helped somebody else out.  | 
06-01-2008, 12:53 AM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Cornpatch of Iowa
Posts: 76
| | Switch Kit is correct, the Galaxy "N" kits are better as they use IC chips to add the extra channels.
I've always used the chipswitch mod, remove the D2824 PLL chip and replace with a D2816 out of an old junk Cobra 29 LTD or similar radio. By performing this chipswitch mod, you can toggle pin 9 (which is the T/R pin used in the AM radios) to shift 40 channels up or 40 channels down by tying pin 9 high or low. However, you need to ground pin 20 to make the channel shifts possible, hence the clarifier mod I described earlier in the thread.
If you have a little coin to spend, the Galaxy "N" kit is the way to go for the extra channels, but if you are a tech/hobbyist like myself, who doesn't mind doing a little extra modifying, the PLL chipswitch has the potential to offer you more channels. Cheers!
-Exit | 
07-30-2008, 01:03 PM
|  | Member | | Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 30
| | Galaxy N Kit Where is a good place to purchase a Galaxy N Channel Kit? |  | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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