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		<title><![CDATA[Worldwide DX Amateur Radio Forums - Ham - CB - HF - VHF - UHF - Tech, & Repair]]></title>
		<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Before you do anything, read this.!

The modifications are not verified and tested by The WorldWide Radio Forum , so if you try some of the modifications, it's on your own risk.

Performing modifications of some equipment may be a violation of local laws. If you have any doubts, do not perform the modification.]]></description>
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			<title><![CDATA[Worldwide DX Amateur Radio Forums - Ham - CB - HF - VHF - UHF - Tech, & Repair]]></title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Swapping out Chan LEDS.</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37172-swapping-out-chan-leds.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:47:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Are these easy to swap out and are all CHAN LED have the same contact point or legs. I have a green Chan LED from a realistic radio Im wanting to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Are these easy to swap out and are all CHAN LED have the same contact point or legs. I have a green Chan LED from a realistic radio Im wanting to replace onto my pres.grant. one LED is out.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>15minigrass</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37172-swapping-out-chan-leds.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Galaxy Starlight Display Whine</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37170-galaxy-starlight-display-whine.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:07:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The friends are keeping me busy lookin' for fixes for 'em.....ah that's what friends are for :thumbup: 
 
Has Galaxy DX 98VHP with Starlight Display....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The friends are keeping me busy lookin' for fixes for 'em.....ah that's what friends are for :thumbup:<br />
<br />
Has Galaxy DX 98VHP with Starlight Display. Has developed like a 100hz tone in it that is air-audible on his end and it comes through on transmit. Face lights are on a dimmer and the tone reduces and goes away as the dimmer is turned down and then off....but he's gotta have front panel illumination ya know. So anyone know of a fix for this whine-tone coming off the Starlight display?<br />
<br />
As always....indebted for any help!!  :thumbup1:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.pic4ever.com/images/interview.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Wire Weasel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37170-galaxy-starlight-display-whine.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cobra 2000 gtl reads 92.0000</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37105-cobra-2000-gtl-reads-92-0000-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:23:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I bought a cobra 2000 the other day, hooked it up and it reads 92.0000 on every channel??? Anyone know what this is about? Also, it doesnt receive or...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a cobra 2000 the other day, hooked it up and it reads 92.0000 on every channel??? Anyone know what this is about? Also, it doesnt receive or <acronym title="transmit">TX</acronym> from channels 2-8. Thanks!!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jerzeyj420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37105-cobra-2000-gtl-reads-92-0000-a.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Besy Way To Desolder Amp Board Tabs</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37019-besy-way-desolder-amp-board-tabs.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 20:51:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>A friend of mine is going to be bringing me a Palomar Blue 225 like the pic. Has lost about 25 watts of power but still working. Looked inside and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>A friend of mine is going to be bringing me a Palomar Blue 225 like the pic. Has lost about 25 watts of power but still working. Looked inside and says there are two diodes that have popped loose presumably due to heat ( I told the boy to mount a fan on de thing). Says diodes have popped loose from the solder side of the board and the board will have to be unmounted from the overall unit. Says there are large solder tabs in the corners presumably connecting the board ground to the case. I can check/replace/resolder the diodes for him but have no experience desoldering the large corner solder blobs from an amp case.<br />
<br />
What's the best-easiest way to do this? I have a large soldering gun and small butane hand torch and pretty good soldering skills.<br />
<br />
Thanks for any tips!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Wire Weasel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/37019-besy-way-desolder-amp-board-tabs.html</guid>
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			<title>A-Static Mobile Max (v3.2) no power when keying up</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36999-static-mobile-max-v3-2-no-power-when-keying-up.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 06:22:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a a-static mobilemax, it's v3.2 with the 28 seconds of audio recording and 1 roger beep.  When i key up with it powered up, the metere doesn't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a a-static mobilemax, it's v3.2 with the 28 seconds of audio recording and 1 roger beep.  When i key up with it powered up, the metere doesn't move, and there's no audio coming from the unit.  if the power to the unit is off, the radio works fine. I tested it on a cobra 29 NW LTD &amp; my galaxy 949, and it fails to work on either unit.  The unit it setup to work with a 4pin cobra mic.<br />
<br />
<br />
Has anyone ever encountered this before? :headbang</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>BigJeff</dc:creator>
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			<title>Protection diode on rci 2950</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36984-protection-diode-rci-2950-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 08:44:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So tonight I got in a hurry to try out a new power supply and hooked up the radio backwards, now it doesn't work... at all.... 
  
Figured I probably...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So tonight I got in a hurry to try out a new power supply and hooked up the radio backwards, now it doesn't work... at all....<br />
 <br />
Figured I probably blew the protection diode but I cannot find information on which one it is. I see three black diodes with silver bands in the back corner by the power leads, could all three of them be protection diodes?<br />
 <br />
If anyone could give me a board number to identify the right one it would be appreciated, as I would rather own a $200 radio and not a $200 boat anchor.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>kd8hjr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36984-protection-diode-rci-2950-a.html</guid>
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			<title>90 DAY WONDERS ??</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36982-90-day-wonders.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 03:25:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a question. Are the thick white plastic/ceramic insulators used in most new radios for the driver/final/modulator transistors as good as Mica...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a question. Are the thick white plastic/ceramic insulators used in most new radios for the driver/final/modulator transistors as good as Mica insulators ??? I have heard the white insulators referred to as &quot;90 day wonders&quot; by several GOOD techs. But... I have also heard some good techs defend them and say they are better than mica. What are they made of???Plastic?? ceramic?? or what ?? I have an RCI2950 that has the white insulators, and I just added a speech processor to the unit. The driver and finals will be modulated a LOT harder now, and I need to know if changing the insulators will help the reliability. What experience have you guys had with this. Thanks.<br />
 <br />
- 399</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>unit_399</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36982-90-day-wonders.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>4 OHM EX-SPEAKER ON MY CB</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36957-4-ohm-ex-speaker-my-citizens-band-radio.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:12:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Will running a 4 ohm external speaker (kenwood kes-5) on my uniden grant cb hurt the radio.? isnt most external cb speakers 8 ohm.? i usually use the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Will running a 4 ohm external speaker (kenwood kes-5) on my uniden grant <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym> hurt the radio.? isnt most external <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym> speakers 8 ohm.? i usually use the texas ranger external speakers and they sound good. but truthfully the kenwood kes-5 millitary grade external speaker sounds better. just not wanting to harm my radio.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>190</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Astatic 600/Paradynamics rotary switch?</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36949-astatic-600-paradynamics-rotary-switch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:48:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi everyone, I have an Astatic 600/Paradynamics 3 movement swr/mod/wattmeter.  
  
The 4 position switch to change wattage has sheared off flush with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everyone, I have an Astatic 600/Paradynamics 3 movement swr/mod/wattmeter. <br />
 <br />
The 4 position switch to change wattage has sheared off flush with outside of the enclosure. <br />
 <br />
Has anyone changed one of these before? <br />
 <br />
I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> needing a part number and a source. <br />
 <br />
Thank you for any help you can offer.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>d1g1man</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36949-astatic-600-paradynamics-rotary-switch.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>VSWR at DC</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36948-vswr-dc.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 22:46:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does VSWR have any relevance at DC?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does VSWR have any relevance at DC?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>C2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36948-vswr-dc.html</guid>
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			<title>Help! Uniden Washington Channel Mod</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36937-help-uniden-washington-channel-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 18:15:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi there everyone! I am attempting to put channels in a buddies rig and I am having an odd problem, I would sure appreciate your input.  
  
It is a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there everyone! I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> attempting to put channels in a buddies rig and I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> having an odd problem, I would sure appreciate your input. <br />
 <br />
It is a Uniden Washington, MB8719 3 Button Board number PC-385AH.<br />
 <br />
The one that I have attempted is the method where you isolate pin 10, and connect one wire to pin 10 then the other to ground (SPST).<br />
Also, another SPST to connect pins 11 and 12 (Pins Not Isolated).<br />
 <br />
I get a lower frequency jump when 11 and 12 are connected, but when I switch pin 10 to ground it just goes lower.<br />
 <br />
In other words, I can't get any high channels out of it. <br />
 <br />
I would love to put an EXPO B kit in it, but no-one seems to have one.<br />
 <br />
I would just do &quot;the_mod&quot; but this rig is not quite in good enough shape for that investment. <br />
 <br />
I have played with the VCO, and it locks ok but I feel like I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> missing something or doing something wrong. <br />
 <br />
Perhaps if someone has this same rig with the PLL jumped, they might be able to Eyeball it and see how theirs was done.<br />
 <br />
Thanks again!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>d1g1man</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36937-help-uniden-washington-channel-mod.html</guid>
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			<title>cobra 29 with mosfet final</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36931-cobra-29-mosfet-final.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:13:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Did a mosfet change and followed instructions from cbtricks. Here is the problem R40  burned up so i replaced it with a new resistor (bigger) 1 watt...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Did a mosfet change and followed instructions from cbtricks. Here is the problem R40  burned up so i replaced it with a new resistor (bigger) 1 watt and also replaced c20 cap next to it. Worked great then R40 gets hot and burns up again???  Need help Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Number15</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36931-cobra-29-mosfet-final.html</guid>
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			<title>HR 2510 NO TX WATTAGE</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36858-hr-2510-no-transmit-wattage.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:03:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hr2510 rx good but has no tx power shows about a half watt on AM if I keep the mic keyed that half watt goes to 0 watts in a couple of seconds ,I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hr2510 <acronym title="receive">rx</acronym> good but has no <acronym title="transmit">tx</acronym> power shows about a half watt on <acronym title="amplitude modulation">AM</acronym> if I keep the mic keyed that half watt goes to 0 watts in a couple of seconds ,I have already replaced the final mrf497,the driver 2sc2166 also Q124 audio driver Q134 pre driver ,changed C95 and C97 and C75 ,all voltages on ic104 are correct,checked voltage on Q125,Q126 and Q136 all check out according to service manual now I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> stumped any help would be great</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>CBC544</dc:creator>
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			<title>help with cobra 29 ltd classic</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36822-help-cobra-29-ltd-classic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 06:30:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>HI i have 1 for you tech i have a cobr 29 ltd classic side mic it was working just fine tuned up with a 5 watt DK swing to almoast 15 watts yest the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>HI i have 1 for you tech i have a cobr 29 ltd classic side mic it was working just fine tuned up with a 5 watt DK swing to almoast 15 watts yest the radio was also cliped that is all my buddy used it in his big truck a month or so now ti keys up and swing the same but audio is real low and nothing comes from the speaker   no speaker is good as wen i try the pa i git audio from <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym> channel and also my voice thru pa dont know if this is right the only way i can git audio from speaker si to ground ext sp to chassie of radio but then audio is good for 5 feet but after that it dies off  also this gives me talkback that  souns good  stil a good out put     dont know what my problem might be i dont think it is audio ic help</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/"><![CDATA[Tech, & Repair]]></category>
			<dc:creator>cottentop</dc:creator>
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			<title>So you want to learn more about radio repair</title>
			<link>http://www.worldwidedx.com/tech-repair/36798-so-you-want-learn-more-about-radio-repair.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 Oct 2009 00:56:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Please ask questions by replying to the thread not with PMs. That way everyone gets questions answered and every one else gets to learn more.* 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Please ask questions by replying to the thread not with PMs. That way everyone gets questions answered and every one else gets to learn more.</b><br />
<br />
<u>Scope</u><ul><li>General</li>
</ul><ul><li>Shop equipment</li>
</ul><ul><li>homebrew test equipment</li>
</ul><ul><li>Receiver</li>
</ul><ul><li>Transmiter</li>
</ul><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Years ago I started off in electronics with nothing more that a volt meter. Analog at that. I now have a well stock repair shop going with some decent equipment. But took years to accumulate. Back then there was no internet to look stuff up on. No great forums like this one to go on and ask how something works, or where to find a part. Well, at least there were local places to find parts! Everything was trial and error. At least for me.<br />
<br />
What I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> hoping to do in this thread is share with you some of the tricks of radio repair. And maybe some of the other techs will jump in and add a few things. Reason I <acronym title="amplitude modulation">am</acronym> doing this is that I get pm's and emails from <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym>'rs and new hams everyday asking different things about their radios. Just today I received one from the Netherlands asking about an article I wrote a few years ago on another forum.<br />
Also by reading the forums there are many folks that are trying to repair their own radios. These are the different folks than just the ones that want plug and play.  So don't worry shop owners. You loose no business with this. The plug and play operators will continue to support you :)<br />
<br />
The art of radio repair is dying. Around my area there is only one other person that works on older tube stuff. And he is semi retired. There are three other shops that only repair solid state units. If you want to start off repairing your own rigs there is nothing better to start with than a <acronym title="citizens band radio">CB</acronym> Radio. Why??  Well it does not matter if you are a <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym> or ham radio operator. You have to start somewhere. <acronym title="citizens band radio">CB</acronym>'s are cheap. You can pick them up at yard sales for a couple of bucks. So if you destroy it you are not out much and maybe a lesson learned.<br />
<br />
<u>Standard Shop Equipment</u><br />
Here is some of the tools you will need to start repairing radios.<br />
A good set of hand tools.<br />
Regulated power supply.<br />
Dummy load. (A home-brew 100 watt is fine)<br />
Analog and digital volt meter.<br />
25 to 45 watt soldering irons.<br />
Solder wick<br />
Solder sucker (Radio shack has a nice solder sucker iron. Get them while they last)<br />
Assortment of test clips<br />
Magnifying lamp (Well I need one)<br />
Frequency counter<br />
<br />
<u>I want but can not afford shop equipment</u><br />
Service Monitor<br />
Dual trace oscilloscope<br />
Transistor tester<br />
Capacitor tester<br />
Variable bench power supply<br />
Signal tracer<br />
<br />
<br />
The bottom list gets very expensive but are a must for professional repairs. But if you are affected by today's economy, you probably will struggle to get the stuff. And no need to take food out of the families mouth just for you to learn. So lets see if we can compromise a bit.<br />
<br />
<u>Service Monitor. </u><br />
This is the next best thing since sliced bread. If you look around the net you can pick one up for a few hundred dollars. But the good ones are more like a few thousand bucks. I use the IRF 1200. And see them all the time for 3 to 4 grand. Take a look. You will see. But since we are starting off with <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym>, I will show you away you can test a radio.<br />
<br />
<u><b>The Poor Mans Service Monitor / Generator (P.M.M for short)</b></u><br />
<br />
The poor mans monitor is nothing more than a converted <acronym title="citizens band radio">cb</acronym> radio. The first service monitor I ever owned was a modified cobra 23 channel radio.  The radio was removed from its shell and mounted in a larger metal case. This way I could add the needed components to complete the unit.<br />
<br />
I added a internal power supply. This does not have to be a large amp supply but needs to be stable. The driver and final of the radio will be removed. The pre-driver will deliver all the power you need to test receivers with. You will need to build an attenuator so you can vary the output in generate mode. In the one I had I used a 12 position switch with resistors added of various resistance to achieve less db output.<br />
<br />
With today's export rigs, you can build one that will cover more frequencies and <acronym title="amplitude modulation">AM</acronym>, CW, <acronym title="sideband">SSB</acronym>, <acronym title="frequency modulation">FM</acronym>.<br />
<br />
<u>List of things to add to monitor</u><ul><li>Internal power supply</li>
</ul><ul><li>Dummy Load</li>
</ul><ul><li>RF attenuator</li>
</ul><ul><li>Tone generator</li>
</ul><ul><li>Frequency off % meter</li>
</ul><ul><li>Frequency counter</li>
</ul><ul><li>On Air pick up loop</li>
</ul><br />
Some radio's of choice are the Cobra 25 GTL or Cobra 29 GTL (Classic). The older model. These were built tough and hold up good. So if you have an old beat up one lying around use it.  One important thing to consider is you need to add some shielding to certain area&#8217;s. If you can find some very thin sheet metal you can solder it together.  Double sided pc board works great also. Most of the shielded compartments will be small so it will not take much. There are several sources for this including RF Parts and Tesco.<br />
<br />
We will start looking at the radio antenna lead. We will need to isolate the area were the <acronym title="transmit">TX</acronym> and <acronym title="receive">RX</acronym> comes together at. You will need locate D8 and R39, L10, C44, and C142.<br />
<br />
More to come</div>

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