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I am looking for any and all information on a Eagle 525 tube base linear. This is not a golden or browning linear. I am looking to purchase it, But I need to know some information first. I was told it has been re-capped and re-tubed with very little use since it was done. I need to know how many watts to expect deadkey and peak, How many and what tubes does this unit use? How much is a fair price to pay for this unit? ect. ect. Anything that you guys know that you could tell me about this unit would be extremelly helpful. I want to go into this purchase with some good info on the unit. I have searched the internet and could find nothing on this unit. Please help me.

Thanks,

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Larry T. CDX529

" The Littlest Station In The Nation!"

The info on your amplifier is RIGHT HERE! That amp was made under the model numbers, Eagle 400, Eagle 500, Eagle 515 (CW Transmitter) and Eagle 525.

The amplifier is designed for 4 watts input and when properly driven and tuned you could see as much as 900 watts PEP.

More info here!

.

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Ok, Here is the situation now. Here is pictures of the inside of this Kenrich Eagle 525. If you look on the "Load" roller inductor there is a missing electrical component. there is a wire on each side of the roller inductor but nothing in the middle. Could you please tell me what component and value belongs there inbetween the two wires? The guy finally remebered why it has not been hooked up in 8 years. From what he said that component was between the size of a nickle and a quarter, He took it out because it was no good and never replaced it. now the part is lost and he has no idea what it was or what value belongs there. Any idea what kind of trauma may have caused that part to fail? Could it just have been weak and let go? I need to know what it is so it can be replaced for testing before I even think about buying it. What is a fair price do you think I should pay for this unit?

Thanks all for the help,

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Larry T. CDX529

" The Littlest Station In The Nation!"

Larry,
Just from the looks of the amplifier, I'm not too sure I'd offer very much at all. It appears to be sort of amateurishly bult/rebuilt/repaired at some point. All of the parts are 'old', which isn't bad particularly, but be prepared for repairs. Best advice would be that you'd offer the 'minimum' -after- it's been made usable. Don't hold your breath...
- 'Doc

Larry, the part in question looks like an air dielectric variable capacitor to me, not a roller inductor. So, the part that is missing was probably a capacitor added across some of the plates to increase its base value. But it is very hard to tell from the picture...

The diagram shows a 120 pf (gotta be HV part, not some 600 volt mica jobbie) capacitor to ground in parallel with the load variable. Also at that point, you also have a 10 pf cap going over to metering circuit, a 10 pf cap going to the RF indicator (#3 neon lamp) and, a 22 micro-henry choke to ground.

Set the load variable to full mesh and tune the amp for max DK; look at the Tune variable, it should be somewhere near half meshed. Now, adjust the load variable for max output if, the capacitor is fully closed then you need that external 120 pf part installed.

The tubes are 12 pin 20LF6s, the final tubes are strung across the AC power line to light the filaments. Have somebody with a tube checker go thru the tubes, they check just like a 6LF6 only with a 20 volt filament.

GL

Mel

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Does that mean a "Ham" did it?

The Kenrich Eagle series was a very popular and well built mono-band amplifier. There were thousands of those amps constructed in the late 70's and in the 80's.

Seemingly, the amp was recently re-tubed and the power supply was reworked so, there is no reason to fear catastrophic failure. What you are seeing and commenting upon is the shorted turns in the Pi-Network; this is no reason to trash is amp. He just needs someone with a Grid Dip Meter to fine tune that coil (I advised him on the tune-up procedure for the amp, from there, he can straighten out the tank coil.

Buy the amp at .50 cents per watt max if you can see it work, $125.00 if you have to have it repaired (the tubes are worth about 50 bucks each).

Mel

"Kilo-Oscar-Zero-Mike"

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Mel,
'Amateurishly' doesn't necessarily mean 'ham'. It does refer to the way the thing is wired, it is done sort of 'amateurishly', doesn't look very 'professionally' done. From a discription of it's history, it 'sounds' like it's been 'done'/'re-done' sort of haphazardly.
All things considered, it's probably not a bad deal if it's cheap enough. Just don't think there's all that much to recommend it though.
- 'Doc