As some of you may know from my posts on CB Tricks I had some health issues and as a result, I got rid of all my equipment. I don’t like to see a grown man cry so when I think about it I try not to look in a mirror!
But that is water under the bridge. I found some equipment on Craigslist and yes it’s old and yes it’s the same kind of equipment I started out with back in the 60’s so I felt connected to it. There was one item that I was happy to see, this v-1060 Hitachi 100mhz scope the gentleman fired it up, it has a nice bright clean trace so I bought it along with an Eico RF signal generator, Audio generator and a Heathkit audio generator, Heathkit FM signal generator and High voltage probe along with a bunch of parts and a few hundred QST magazines etc, etc and much more all for $70 bucks!
I knew I would be tearing this scope down and cleaning it and running any alignments and repairs that would be needed before putting in service, so the first thing I found was the mode switch for>
SINGLE
A/B SEP
DELAY
HOLDOFF
TIME
H POS
Was broke!!!! Ok, no problem I will find one on the internet, “ I was wrong” so I didn’t want this scope sitting on the workbench for 3 weeks, so I came up with the following which may help others out there trying to remedy this problem.
And above is the finished modification switch.
I simply used a couple of surface mount tactile switches mounted on a small circuit board fashioned from a larger board I found in all the stuff that I purchased
that day. Below are the images which I think will speak for themselves.
I cut this board with my band saw and then ground the edges with my grinder “WOW can you say RED neck?” It worked, and it only took about 2 minutes.
Since the four outer legs of the original switch mounting were just holes I used them in the same manner as the original switch did by using four lengths of stranded 22-gauge wire soldered to make them ridged and this made the support of the board very sturdy. I then did point to point wiring from the switches to the board with 20-gauge stranded wire remembering that the up switch is connected the lower left 2 original switch connections, or you will have the bottom switch making an upward motion and the top switch causing downward control it will still work it will just be confusing.
You must make sure there is at least a 1/16-inch offset below the level of the led light bar so when you place the face plate over the board there is enough clearance to let the face plate settle in flush.
Here is some more of that “RED NECK” stuff but it works nice. I didn’t want the tactile switches to be seen so I used a small section of material from a cleaning kit as a cover or membrane if you please and it was like it was made for it.
I also added 2 extra inputs on the back panel and modified the front panel switches to switch between back & front inputs as I want to have this scope hooked up to my bench radio with the ability to just switch to troubleshoot mode and monitor mode. I will try to cover all that in another article if anyone is interested. Thanks, and I hope this is useful to someone.
OldTech.
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