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Viagra blue dot 'b' board problems

To find/check the regulator for proper voltage is one half. Once you find the regulator and it has the proper output; then put your Viagra board +8v feed wire on the same trace of the regulator. Go right to the source. Think that ExitThirteen's advice is spot on too; as that JP# he gave is also on the same regulator output as well.
 
To find/check the regulator for proper voltage is one half. Once you find the regulator and it has the proper output; then put your Viagra board +8v feed wire on the same trace of the regulator. Go right to the source. Think that ExitThirteen's advice is spot on too; as that JP# he gave is also on the same regulator output as well.

Sounds like the ticket. I may get the chance tommorrow. Also i was looking R264 next to VR14. I bought a couple of diodes to do the NPC mod. I'm guessing that i'd use a flashlight from the other side of the board to mark 264's right leg. Thanks.
P.S. I'm also guessing that the mod would mess up DTB's tune job he did on it.
 
R133 gets 8 volts from JP189 which ties into the same source as JP190. A quick easy way to do it would be to form a solder bridge across both ends of R133 bypassing it in order to supply 8 volts to the Viagra. Why is R133 there in the first place?
 
the 959 i had all i did was cut 2 wires and install 2 switch's and i had above 40 and below 40, no board needed

There are some skips when you do it this way but yes that works. Several good tech's out there prefer a more custom look. They use the Viagra board and on a 959 the lo med hi controls the 3 bands of full 40 channels.
 
I let my radio run all last night(4 hours) that's all the sleep I got. No hiccups. I let DTB hook my viagra board up. The ANL ANL/NB switch is used for high and low channels. The ANL/NB is active. Even the Viagra board misses a few channels.
 
Let me get this straight: DTB put in the Viagra board and it didn't work as it was supposed to?

Usually if the channels aren't working on the upper and lower freqs, it is because the PLL loop is out of lock because of too little or to much voltage fed to the VCO.
 
Let me get this straight: DTB put in the Viagra board and it didn't work as it was supposed to?

Usually if the channels aren't working on the upper and lower freqs, it is because the PLL loop is out of lock because of too little or to much voltage fed to the VCO.

DTB put the Viagra board I bought from Star Electronics and Communications when I had the tune ,align,open clarifier. He set it up beautifully. However it started acting up one month after it was installed. I checked with James of Star Electronics and he sort of remembered something maybe about R133. It's not DTB's fault. You see,I had done some research at the time and started buying goodies including the Viagra board and then decided to let DTB work on my radio. Good choice! About R133, I got a little rusty about resistors. My question is,why would I need R133?
 
James of Star Electronics said that the clarifier voltage was too low. ????
When it goofed up,it stayed around 25.615 and cycled real fast through those freqs adjacent to that freq. the go/lo/norm switch wouldn't affect it. Like I said last night,I'll check the voltage at JP189 and on both sides if R133
 
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Voltage

I pulled the cover on my 959 and checked the voltage going to the Viagra board. My Pyramid PS14KX power supply checked in at 13.86 volts. The voltage at J28 is 6.67 volts while the voltage at the jumper side of R133 is 8.43 volts. The Viagra board requires 8 volts in order to function properly. So,the email correspondence with James of Star Electronics and Communications is correct in that he said that R133 isn't allowing high enough voltage to run the Viagra board. I think that if I use a jumper to bridge R133 I'll get it functioning properly.
Any wisdom would be welcome.
 

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Viagra board supply voltage repair

I bypassed R133 by soldering a bridge across the resistor on the trace side with a leg from a resistor I had laying around. This now supplies 8+volts to the Viagra board.
 

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B. success !!!
Now on to the other problem. If I wiggle the wiring harness to the dimmer switch,the lights go off and on
 

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Harness plug

Ok. I located the problem with the panel display lights flickering on and off. There's a plug that was barely seated in. It's now unplugged. It must've come unplugged when I re-fastened the wiring harness in that area. Guess I'll have to take the faceplate off to reach it and plug it back up.
 

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