A first HF rig...advice & opinions.....

Tuner

With the right tuner, you dont hve to cut a wire "right" , you can tune about anything, and yes, you will need it with a G5RV if you want to work all bands. Just get some wire from the motor pool and build your own antenna. You should find everything you need in the area or dump. Be creative!!!

What's a 'PL-250' antenna?
- 'Doc

PL-259

Yes, that is what I meant to type, but I didnt have my finger specs on and couldnt see what I was saying.:headbang

Antenna Wire

By the way, an old alternator is a great source of antenna wire. Takes a little work and effort, but it is strong and damned near invisable, too.

I've been reading this thread that you up up here, N2ITH ('Jersey Man'). Since I got my HAM ticket three weeks ago, I have the exact same questions that you have concerning the price, parts, and feasibility of those chosen parts. I need to set up a HAM station as you do, and you gave me some good ideas on what is needed. Thanks!

The Icom IC 718 that you mentioned caught my eye. Did a bit of research on it, and found out that the Ham Radio Outlet guys are selling it for $559+tx, so long as you buy it before today. They also have a $50 rebate they give you to the Icom mfr. So, I went down there at 2:30 PM - and the store closes at 3PM. The special on this radio ended at 3PM today. Just in time. I don't know if they are going to keep it on sale; but I'm pretty sure that they do want to clear stock on this item. So, I purchased the radio for $559+tax and got the rebate certificate. $50 is $50; so it pushed me over the edge. I don't know if there is a hook up for a computer and what software to run. Anybody want to chime in? I would appreciate it!

I also bought the LDG Z-100 automatic antenna tuner for $149 -10% because he sold me the display model, since it was the last one in the store. I was looking for a tuner anyway for the S45 on my CB antenna, so my timing worked out for the best. I found out that this tuner will automatically tune on the IC 718 and has plug provisions for powerup/autotune for this model. Sweet! The salesman told me that the LDG tunes over a broader band than the tuner supplied by the radio mfr, so it was better to go that route. I already had the Samlec 25 amp switching power supply that I bought at HRO for $100 a month ago.

He also had a Yaesu down there that does 6 meters as well as 160-10 meters, but it's about $180 more. Can't remember the model number, but I will update this post when I do my homework on it. The salesman told me, that if I should decide to get the other radio, all I need do is return it unopened within the next ten days and apply it twards the purchase of that radio. This IC 718 has the numeric keypad to input freq choice directly, and doesn't have too many functions - that quite frankly - only confuse me more at this point. Remember, that I am new to HAM radio.

So now I need to get an antenna, coax, and figure out a place to mount it.
Some thoughts:
I want to get a multi-band vertical, so now I have my homework cut out for me on this point too. Space restrictions is my main reason to use a vertical, although a cheap dipole will only limit my direction use and look awkward at the house. Even if it is a vertical that I finally choose, I will have to address the issue of where to mount it, as I already have a 1/2 wave 'Archer' antenna up on my garage for the CB and 10 meters. That will a minor problem as I have a chimney that I am considering using as the mount for the 160-10 meter antenna. So the coax will have to be about 60 ft or so. I think I am going to get some of the Jefa Tech coax in order to ensure a good connection and reduce the possibility of leakage. Probably overkill for the freqs that I will be using - but leakage and RFI are primary concerns. I'm surrounded by houses, and I don't know how much filtering this radio/antenna will require to keep the neighbors happy and off of my back.

If I knew then what I know now....

I wouldn't change a thing.

Kenwood TS450
MFJ 989C roller inductor (If you get a manual tuner, a roller is the ONLY way to go IMHO)
The biggest longest dipole fed with twinlead you can fit.

Ok, maybe I might jump for a Kenwood 850. Definitely would jump for a Drake TR7A.

Little told fact in hamdom: most failures of radios occur after the first year, but before the third. Chances are if you find a rig 5 years old that works well, treat it right and it'll last a lifetime.

In other words, used is the only way to go, IMHO.

radio

n2ith,
Sorry to hear about the job loss, but dont let it stop you. Go out and find an older used rig such as the Kenwood TS520s, or Yaesu ft-101 or any of the other great rigs out there. You will be on the air with a bullet proof rig, will be able to tune up on your wire, and they are dead simple to operate with a little practice. Every knob and switch has one purpose!!! You will be able to work the world on a couple hundred dollars on a peice of history with some class.

PR

If your planning on working any CW at all, I'd recommend getting a tighter filter right off the bat. Most stock filters, all manufacturers, aren't tight enough for a dedicated CW enthusiast.
With the MUF being what it is at this point in the solar doldrums... I get lots of QRM from nearby freqs. Listen around 7033-7050kc, just try to pick out a weak sig and copy it. Darned near impossible with everyone piled up on the bands that will get out.
As far as rigs themselves go, its personal choice. I prefer ICOM's because, in my experience, they are generally more user friendly. Fewer multi-function headaches. You won't need the darned manual in your hand each & every time you turn it on.
Good hamming with whatever you decide.
Lex

WHAT HF RIG TO BUY?

HI there, when I first was looking for an HF rig I watched the auction site but also QTH.com as well. I ended up winning an auction for a used Yaesu FT747GX 10-160 meter 100 watt rig. This I used for a few years with a MFJ-949E tuner again from an online auction. Both were is great condition and worked very well. I only had around $300. including shipping in the 747 and around $100. in the tuner. I made my own dipole antenna out of Slinky's fed with Belden 9913 coax cable. It works great from 10-80 meters. Not to well on 160 though. The Slinky antenna is made of 4 Slinkys, two on each side of the center insulator. I only have about $28. invested in the antenna and it gets me on 10-80 meters.
This last summer I changed the coax to 450 ohm balanced feed line (Window Line) from the tuner to the antenna. This was a very good change as I now have a lower noise level and the signals are stronger so over all it works very well. One thing if you use Slinkys be sure you put the antenna all together and string it between a couple trees and put several coats of clear paint on it to retard rusting of the coiled wire. It is not insulated.
Anyway the 747 was over 20 years old when I got it and it worked great for about 3 years then a few weeks ago the rotary encoder went out on it. There seems to be no replacement parts this radio so I started searching for a replacement. After reading a lot of reviews on eham I decided I wanted an Icom ic-746 (nonPRO). I found several and was outbid on a few but kept watching QTH.com and ebay and ended up winning an auction for one made in 2000 from a Ham in AZ who bought a new TS-2000 and decided to sell his 746. I would highly recommend the 746. It has a higher rating than the 746PRO on eham. Anyway I have been using it for about 2 weeks now and it is great. The auto tuner will tune most of the bands without using the manual 949E but I use the manual tuner for 75 meters which is the band I use the most.
So you can get a good radio on the auctions or other good sites like QTH.com. The thing I do is to email the seller and ask some specific questions and watch the answer you get. IF they don't know or you get a generic answer I would keep looking. Those people probably are just selling something they bought at an estate auction or yard sale or something. I try to only buy Amateur equipment from other Hams that have a reasonable reason for selling their equipment.
I have talked to operators using the ic-718 and they always sound very good. For the money it would be hard go beat a 718 if your going new. Check out the reviews on eham and you can compare what other Ham operators think about the different radios.
Well Ill keep it at that for now. I hope this helps you make your choice.
Ill tell you what a Ham who has been on the air for over 40 years told me.
"Just buy the best you can afford at the time and get on the air. After you are on the air for a while you will learn what you like and dont like and you can always change-upgrade from there but the main thing is just get on the air and start having fun and making friends." I thought this was good advise.

Take care, 73 for now and God Bless, John KB9RYI

First HF Rig...

For what it's worth, my first setup was as follows:

IC-718
MFJ-4125 "MightyLite" 25A Switching Power Supply
LDG AT-7000 Tuner
VanGorden Multi-Band Dipole (*not* G5RV)

This is still my fixed-station setup, two years after getting my license.

IC-718 is easily moded for MARS/CAP, easily moded to do 200W ssb without frying the radio, can be computer-controlled with an additional $30 part and a free software download, and is small-enough to be used as an under-dash mobile, if necessary. It is a no-frills, tried-and-true radio with simple layout and solid functionality. True it is not an HF+6m rig like the IC746, but (even comparing new IC718 to used IC-746) it is still a better bargain, IMHO.
Drawbacks are that it does not have a remote head, so if you *did* want to move it between fixed and mobile, you'd have to mount the whole radio *somewhere*; also (as mentioned earlier) it is only HF 10m-160m stock (or continuous 150kHz-30MHz if moded)--unlike the IC746 (HF+6m) or the IC-706MkIIG (HF+6m+VHF+UHF).

In terms of antenna--first, definitely get a tuner. Indispensible.
Second, if you could only have *one* antenna, and the only concern is HF functionality....the longest, highest-placed dipole you can get is what I would use. I chose the VanGorden multiband dipole simply because it would cover all the bands that the IC-718 has with *one* antenna; it's easily erected, easily stowed, easy to stash, and didn't require anything additional other than a 4:1 balun and some rope.
Drawbacks...unless the dipole is high as hell (like 250 feet up), it's pretty much an NVIS (near-vertical incidence skywave) antenna on 80-160...if you can get it up 80 feet it's not quite NVIS on 40m, and if you can get it up at least 40 feet it's a *very* good performer on 20, WARC bands, and 10m. If you can spring for two of them and a coax switch, you can run one N-S, the other E-W, and pretty much have great coverage worldwide...but it's not a beam--therefore not directional; it doesn't have any gain, and (depending on the height of the antenna and the frequency being utilized) has little to no front-back or front-side isolation. It *will* get you on the air, cheaply, and fairly effectively. "How effectively?" --you ask? Washington DC to eastern Europe and Colorado to Japan at the bottom of the sunspot cycle with S-8 - S-9 reports on 20m, and strung as an inverted-vee, and not even a true dipole. What more could you ask for from a starter antenna?

Other people might be able to comment intelligently on Icom vs Kenwood vs Yaesu; both of my rigs (the IC-718 and my mobile rig, an IC-706MkIIG) are both Icoms, so I will save the brand wars for someone else.

I agree with N0LSD. If you buy an AH4 tuner, you do not need an g5rv, only the longest wire that you can hang safely and a good ground system, a 50' wire buried 3" deep is good or run as a dipole. You can also drive a vertical with the AH4. The AH4 should be mounted at the antenna or as close as possible. I started with a 706MK2G for the all band, all mode capability, but I have friends using 718's that love them. I don't think that you will like the freq selection of the yaesu 450. The Icoms can easily be opened for MARS/CAP. A used 746 will fit your budget and we just saved you the cost of an antenna purchase, just buy the wire and insulators.