HY GAIN CLR 2 Survivor

regencycb · Mar 23, 2011

Was going through a few antenna bases today. Came across all the parts to a Hy Gain CLR 2 MODEL 473 . I thought about rebuilding it with a new matching network. Much to my surprise when i checked the matching coil in the base insulator it was good. I say surprise because most are burnt out or open.
If youve ever wondered why a CLR 2 would usually only handle around 250-300 watts the matching network is the limiting factor, as shown in the pics its made on a PC board and is a thin copper etched coil with a shunt to ground. These were also prone to damage the coil from a nearby lightning strike. I plan to try to rebuild this old gal and use it for a RECEIVE antenna on a 10 Meter Repeater.

73 RCBhttp://

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CDX-007 · Mar 23, 2011

Ah, memories. :blush:

The Hy-gain CLR-2 was my first new store-bought CB base antenna way back when I was 11 in 1971.
It's a great little loaded 5/8 and easily turned into a 10m Penetrator.64 if you have about a 2' whip and a way to secure it into the top of the CLR-2 tubing.

Making the Penetrator matching network isn't all that tough and you'll have a 1500w+ .64 with better ears for the repeater!

PM me for any info regarding the matching network.

73

AkBowtie · Mar 25, 2011

So correct me if i'm wrong, but somewhere along the lines I read there were 2 diff. versions of the CLR2. I bought one here a few years ago, have never assym. and ran it yet, but i pulled it apart and it didn't have the disc like you show that they say is only good for 300 watts. Mine has a big solid wire, looks like the one my Avanti had. Mine the 3 element version and i hear there's a 4 element version also.

gamegetter · Mar 25, 2011

that is correct

Hy-gain Model 514 "Golden CLR-2"

CDX-007 · Mar 25, 2011

Interestingly, I've had & rebuilt both, and found no difference other than color.

But the older ones of both finishes had what appeared to be hand wound coils wrapped on a piece of 1" gray PVC and could possibly (probably) handle more power than that wimpy looking circuit board coil.
I presume those were older, not newer, because I tore mine apart and saw the coil on PVC, and it was bought in ~1971.

Mr T · Jun 1, 2014

I realize this is an old post but I would like information on ant mod to get away from the burnt disk in my CLR2.

Marconi · Jun 1, 2014

Mr T said:
I realize this is an old post but I would like information on ant mod to get away from the burnt disk in my CLR2.

Here is an image of what I believe is the CLR2 matcher from a more recent versions of the antenna. It looks to maybe handled more power than the previous version with the PC disc.

HyGain CLR matching coil 02 (640x480).jpg

You might try HyGain and see if they have one of these still in stock. Then you could replace all these hub parts new.

Mr T · Jun 4, 2014

Thank you. Great pic but I cant really see what was done. Amazing as it is I called Hy Gain and their fix was to bypass wafer and go direct to radiator with center lead from coax and take the shield to the radiators which sounded odd to me. Don't know whether to try it or not. The guy didn't seem real knowledgeable. But then again neither am I!

Marconi · Jun 4, 2014

Mr. T, is it possible you missunderstood HyGain's instructions? Could he have said or meant attach the shield side to the radials and not the radiator?

Even if I'm right and the HyGain guy said connect the shield to the radials...you will still need a matching device if you want to keep the radiator length as specified at 19' feet or more.

A shortened 5/8 wave design at about 19' will work about as good as a regular 5/8 wavelenth radiator closer to 21' feet, but there will be more mismatch with the shortened 5/8 wavelength idea.

Mr T · Jun 4, 2014

You are right, miss typed it. He did say center to vertical and shield to radials.
I had read somewhere that the matching rods from a P500 would work but I cant locate the article now. Would really like to resurrect this ant seeing how I'm on a limited budget and love to tinker with this type of stuff. Any other help would be great Thanks again

Marconi · Jun 4, 2014

Mr T said:
You are right, miss typed it. He did say center to vertical and shield to radials.
I had read somewhere that the matching rods from a P500 would work but I cant locate the article now. Would really like to resurrect this ant seeing how I'm on a limited budget and love to tinker with this type of stuff. Any other help would be great Thanks again

Good luck on making the CLR2 into a P500, doing it, and doing it cheap.

You will have to replace almost everything in the antenna except the radiator, and you will need at least 1 whole new radial tubing setup. You will possibly have to add some tubing to lengthen the radiator so it is closer to 22' feet long or more like the P500.

I can only guess that will be more money than you want to spend.

Did you ask HyGain if they have a old CLR2 matching hub setup similar to the one I posted above?

Mr T · Jun 4, 2014

I've read enuff of your post to know you know what your talking about and no it would not be cost efficient on my end. Was just hoping I could remedy the wattage limit on the CRL2. It works great right now but with the age of the wafer or disk who knows how long it will last. At this point in time I'm using a RCI 2995DX so it should be okay. Thanks so much for ur posts and direct contact with me.

Mr T · Jun 9, 2014

I called again and said they didn't even have drawings of the CLR. You think there Is any possible way to make the match in the picture?

jazzsinger · Jun 9, 2014

Mr T said:
Thank you. Great pic but I cant really see what was done. Amazing as it is I called Hy Gain and their fix was to bypass wafer and go direct to radiator with center lead from coax and take the shield to the radiators which sounded odd to me. Don't know whether to try it or not. The guy didn't seem real knowledgeable. But then again neither am I!

guy told that was wrong, if you go direct from centre lead to radiator you will see a very high impedance, and won't get it swr'd, centre lead always goes to tap on coil and shield to radials or base of coil where radials are connected as it is DC grounded.

At base of radiator of a 1/2 or 5/8 wave you have around a 1000 ohms, or 20:1 swr, at base of coil you have 0 ohms, or ground, somewhere on that coil near bottom end will be a 50 ohm point, thats where you tap centre conductor too it, top of coil is around 1000 ohms, bottom zero ohm's, in between must lie 50 ohm.

if you attach it straight to radiator you will create a 1/4 wave radiator for a frequency well away from cb band.

if anyone who has one measures inductance of coil, then you can use an online coil calculator to build one, tapping point will be trial and error

Marconi · Jun 9, 2014

Mr T said:
I called again and said they didn't even have drawings of the CLR. You think there Is any possible way to make the match in the picture?

Mr T, yes I think somebody could and did hand make the matcher in the picture I posted.

I know guys will tell you it is easy...like CDX-007 posted above, but I wouldn't try to retrofit your old CLR2, unless I knew exactly how and what to do, and I could find a new SO239 connector like HyGain used.

If your antenna still works...I would try and sell it and put the proceeds toward a new Penetrator 500.

25 years ago when I fried the disk matcher in my CLR2, I tried to get parts from HyGain, but I think they had a government boot on their necks at the time, and were not selling any CB stuff.

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HY GAIN CLR 2 Survivor

regencycb

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CDX-007

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AkBowtie

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gamegetter

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CDX-007

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Mr T

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Marconi

Usually if I can hear em' I can talk to em'.

Mr T

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Marconi

Usually if I can hear em' I can talk to em'.

Mr T

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Marconi

Usually if I can hear em' I can talk to em'.

Mr T

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Mr T

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jazzsinger

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Marconi

Usually if I can hear em' I can talk to em'.

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