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Anderson connectors for the amp

trailboss

trailboss

Active Member
Apr 25, 2005
107
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26
Gilbert, Az.
I have always used Anderson connectors on my amps, no chance of reverse polarity, and the leads are well protected.
37702FL.GIF


I could never justify dropping $40.00 on their specialized crimping tool, so resorted to the hammer and punch method and it seemed to work fine...I never had any problems, but after reading their tutorial, it looks like from here on out I will be soldering.

Crimping

This may not be news to many of you guys, but I thought that I would pass it on...
 

Very easy to solder, get yourself a map gas torch or propane if you like and a vise and away you go.

I did it all the time without a single issue.
 
I've always tinned the wire before securing it inside the connector. Once secure, heat the connector and melt the solder into it until it just reaches the top. You don't want it to spill out as it can end up on the contact surface of the connector. Once you've done them both and they are cool, snap them into the connector housing.
 
I just clamp them in a vise fill 3/4 with solder and sock the cable in, there is enough residual heat to tin the cable, so just hold the cable until the solder has solidified and let cool and viola.
 
359 said:
I've always tinned the wire before securing it inside the connector. Once secure, heat the connector and melt the solder into it until it just reaches the top. You don't want it to spill out as it can end up on the contact surface of the connector. Once you've done them both and they are cool, snap them into the connector housing.
Click to expand...

mackmobile43 said:
I just clamp them in a vise fill 3/4 with solder and sock the cable in, there is enough residual heat to tin the cable, so just hold the cable until the solder has solidified and let cool and viola.
Click to expand...


I appreciate it!

Just heading out to do it now...
 
mackmobile43 said:
I just clamp them in a vise fill 3/4 with solder and sock the cable in, there is enough residual heat to tin the cable, so just hold the cable until the solder has solidified and let cool and viola.
Click to expand...

Don't be so sure. Do that with some fine stranded cable and then cut it in half with a hacksaw, you may be surprised to only find solder on the outer layer of the cable.
 
359 said:
Don't be so sure. Do that with some fine stranded cable and then cut it in half with a hacksaw, you may be surprised to only find solder on the outer layer of the cable.
Click to expand...

I've done 30 or so pairs and have removed some and when chopped cross wise with bolt cutters they are completely saturated.

Not my first rodeo there cowboy.
 
For educational purposes only, do not try this at home um well I suppose you will.

#2 welding lead and it works as well with #4 battery lead

cable0011.jpg

cable0022.jpg
 
Just be sure to shove the cable in slow and let it heat sink a little while continuing the heat and it will work like that too. Don't let it freeze while feeding the cable I guess it what I'm trying to say.
 
Yes I keep a little torch heat on the terminal while inserting the cable for that very reason, 6 awg and smaller should not require any additional heat after the solder is molten.
 
This is the best way to do these I actually did a few with Crimping when I started using Anderson connectors in the mid 1990s and the few I crinped held up but are only going to be reusable if I cut the wire and use a connector between the new wire and the Anderson quick disconnect.

My new ones are soldered and as mentioned reusable and these things get pricey so its a plus to get more chances to use these (y)
 

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