Small Car Amp

My bad read on the table there. :headbang

youve got pm. tnx.....grasshopper1031

The fuse used with an amplifier can tell you a few things, such as the veracity of the manufacturer, the realistic expectations for power output and who knows what else. You do have to use that fuse's rating in the right way!
The fuse rating times the voltage applied will give you to max possible power -consumed- by that amplifier. It can't tell you anything about the output of that amplifier with out some additional knowledge.
One little piece of 'additional knowledge' is that almost all solid state amplifiers are only about 50% efficient. That means that half of the amps going into the thing are used to make the thing work, they don't contribute to power output, they are consumed/eaten by the amplifier. So, fuse amperage times voltage applied divided by two will give you the maximum you can expect from that thing. An efficiency approaching about 60% is dam near a miracle, 45 to 50% is much more likely. Those mosfets are the same way, maybe a percentage point or two more, very large 'maybe' there.
As far as solid state ('hollow state' amps too) amplifiers are concerned, input power really is the opposite of life expectancy. Meaning, the more drive, the shorter the life span. The manufacturer's specs for transistors really is the best compromise between 'life expectancy' and power output, like it or not. Sure, you can push anything, but is it really worth it? (400 hp from an old Ford flathead six? Sure, for a second or two.) I guess that depends on which you care more about, "mine's bigger than yours", or how much your wallet screams. Your choice...
- 'Doc

gamegetter said:

What I mean is this: and I will just use the following for this example, assuming the 2 pill is doing 200 watts and the 4 pill does 400 watts just for simplicity...and using the power in perspective graph based on transmit range of 4 watts=20 miles. With 200 watts you transmit 76 miles and with the 400 watts having doubled power enough to just notice somewhat of a signal strength change your range of communications should increase out to 85 miles.

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I could be wrong, but ..........

The inverse square law says that the power density will be quartered when the distance is doubled.

With that in mind, if 200w gets you 76 miles, shouldn't 400w get you 114 miles and 800w for 152 miles?

it would be nice if it worked that way ..... but it doesn't .

Power in Perspective

BOOTY MONSTER said:

it would be nice if it worked that way ..... but it doesn't .

Power in Perspective

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i think the chart is a bit optimistic from my results comparing 200 watts vs. 500 watts . but all results will vary with location and conditions (and the equipment staying the same) .



ment to edit but hit quote ....
yep , im still an idiot .

Switch to a 102" whip in a solid mount and blow some doors off.

office888 said:

Switch to a 102" whip in a solid mount and blow some doors off.

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Then he will look like a remote control car driving down the road in that little Pontiac.

cool i got same car what cb ya running? and where in heck did u mount it?
im using a cobrba 7 basically a uniden 510. with that being said a;lso
matters what radio ya using with the amp.cause a stock 148/grant wont
push the 500 too full output .HOWEVER the 667v with its built in driver
workks good with a lower power radio.i seen people try to run a 2950
into a 667 lets just say that doesnt work too much drive for the 667
that has a driver.i used to have a 667v ran inline with a washington base
worked great with only 1-2 watt dead key on am /and 8 -10 watts ssb pep

cswguy said:

I have 3 antenna's and 3 radio's

1 Antenna on the trunk (LIP)
2 Antenna's on the roof 1 on a triple mag (Mr Coily) and 1 single mag (wilson 5000)

Both radio's are mounted on the front dash and 1 radio mounted under the streering wheel, The amps are on sitting on the front seat and all wired direct to the battery.

Anyother questions just ask

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Just a word to the wise.

Coils are lossy and produce negative gain (loss of watts in the form of heat), while the straight unloaded 102 inch whip is a 0 to +2 dBi gain. Loaded antennas are typically a -1 to -6 dBi loss depending on the coil wire thickness, stinger length, and overall design.

3 dB = double power, or halved power.

100w to 200w? +3 dB
100w to 400w? +6 dB
100w to 50w? -3 dB

In other words, switching from your run of the mill coil loaded antenna to a 102" whip typically sees about the same improvement, output wise, as doubling your power output. Not only that, the longer piece of metal will be better at picking up weaker signals.

Antenna is 90% of your setup! Radio type / watts are all water under the bridge.

With that being said, I run a 102" whip on my Honda CRX HF. It works like a charm, and it's a smaller car than your Sunfire.

Good luck with your setup.