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2nd battery

If you plan on using deka batteries, step up and get a real battery, like this one,
hy8eneza.jpg
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2 of these bad boys and you have 400amps of power on tap at 13.8v. I have used the 150ah version if this same battery (2 of them) the 12avr150ft I think they are, at any rate they gave me 300 amps ( 300 a/h) at 13.8v running off a stock alt on an 89 jeep Cherokee. Made a mounting area I the rear and covered it with wood to cover the batts then put an 1 driving 2, driving an 8 pill system in. I could run the ac, stereo and everything else I the truck and never have to touch the has on key up. Voltage never sagged and always held steady at 13.8v on the voltmeter I had installed as well. They are not cheap and weigh around 130-160lbs per batt. But I will say this they were the baddest batteries I have worked with, have installed many into cell sites for battery back up systems. These batts are made to handle an 8hr load before seeing any drop in voltage. After that a small voltage spike will occur, then a fast fall of of voltage will occur, this was per deka unigy when I spoke with them upon ordering 2 of these back in the day (2003), each batt was around 400 shipped. But with 1 of the 200 amp batts like pictured you could run a 4-6 transistor amp with one of these and probably will never make it break a sweat. These batteries are a beast and like I said are made to handle heavy loads on them. Read up on them, I know they are heavy and expensive, but if you are wanting to play big then this is one way to go, I never had an issue with my system, 2 batts In parallel and I used a #2awg wire from the batts to my alternator to charge the batts at the rear, then my power from the batts went to the amp, always ran double fuse protection, one up front and one in the rear, get the good ones from any car stereo shop. These batts aren't for most but those willing to pay will be rewarded with a battery that will last over 5 years (they claim 10 year life span), and that can put out 200 a/h for 8hrs at 1.75vpc. They are truly an amazing battery and make some serious power. I can tell you this also, with 2 of the batts listed above you could have one hell of a mobile setup with 400 amps of power on tap, and no these won't drop under load like a regular battery as they are rated in amp hours not cca (cold cranking amps). These are the REAL DEAL!! But like I said there are some downfalls to them, 2 being weight and size, but if space or weight don't bother you or you have enough of both (space and extra weight cap) then these are the cats meow. They are sealed batts so you can use the indoors, we use these same type batts in the 150-180 amp hour class in cell sites, mind you they are stacks with up to 20 of these batts ran in either a -48vdc or 24vdc config. I wish i still had those batts, unfortunately I fell on bad times and had to part with them, and they are still in use to this day in a car stereo system that runs 4 15" woofers on 2 big amps. My cousin that got they from me was blown away at the power they had, he put a 75 amp load for alternator testing on one and about burnt the tool up as the batt hit that meter with 150amps, it turned the coil in the amp meter cherry red hot and about burned my cousin lol. He said they look like something off the space shuttle lol. Anyway just some food for thought, I am sure that a good alternator will cost more than one of these 200 amp batts, what does a 200 amp alt cost these days? This is JMO. God bless.
 
While the pictured installation is neat and appears the wires are well secured, I always get nervous when I see more than a couple feet of heavy positive wire that is not fused.


And every auto manufacturer does this...a piece of convoluted tubing offers no additional protection. Show me one car that has a fused main power wire.

Don't use my setup, your car will burn up. I'll delete my pictures so that no one else is offended.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 
And every auto manufacturer does this...a piece of convoluted tubing offers no additional protection. Show me one car that has a fused main power wire.

Don't use my setup, your car will burn up. I'll delete my pictures so that no one else is offended.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

People are so easily upset nowadays. A little criticism and they break down crying like a three year old. I don't get it.

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And every auto manufacturer does this...a piece of convoluted tubing offers no additional protection. Show me one car that has a fused main power wire.

Don't use my setup, your car will burn up. I'll delete my pictures so that no one else is offended.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Most new vehicles use a fusible link right off the battery. It looks like a piece of wire but is in fact a one-time fuse.


This is not a wire. It is a 14 gauge fusible link meant to protect 10 gauge wire. Fusible links are to be four wire gauges LESS than the wire they are to protect.

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Most new vehicles use a fusible link right off the battery. It looks like a piece of wire but is in fact a one-time fuse.


This is not a wire. It is a 14 gauge fusible link meant to protect 10 gauge wire. Fusible links are to be four wire gauges LESS than the wire they are to protect.

5551px1__41319_zoom.jpg


Good call. That stuff is a one time burn through and it has to replaced, worth it though to prevent a fire.
 
How many diesels have burned up from their dual battery cables?? I have yet to read about one.
Many years ago when I was big into stereos, I had dual 4 gauge running into the cab, then circuit breakers there, never had a problem. The truck was a modified 4 x 4 which was not for show so you can figure the abuse it would take.

The Jerk, it was a clean looking install BTW.
 
How many diesels have burned up from their dual battery cables?? I have yet to read about one.
Many years ago when I was big into stereos, I had dual 4 gauge running into the cab, then circuit breakers there, never had a problem. The truck was a modified 4 x 4 which was not for show so you can figure the abuse it would take.

The Jerk, it was a clean looking install BTW.


It's just good practice to fuse right at the battery. If the cable should ever chaff and were a hole then it would likely weld itself to the chassis while burning up the wiring and possibly the entire vehicle. It has happened. Not often mind you but more often than you think. I always fuse within a few inches of the battery connection.
 
That sucks, I prefer reusable fuses :tongue:


Don't laugh. There are such things as renewable fuses. Having worked in an industry for 22 years where we used renewable fuses a little bit it just comes natural for me to sometimes refer to regular fuses as "one-time fuses" as opposed to "renewable fuses". The renewable type allow you to keep the same cartridge base but replace the fuse element itself.


Cartridge fuses with renewable elements.

Renewable.jpg
 
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It's just good practice to fuse right at the battery. If the cable should ever chaff and were a hole then it would likely weld itself to the chassis while burning up the wiring and possibly the entire vehicle. It has happened. Not often mind you but more often than you think. I always fuse within a few inches of the battery connection.
Agreed about the fuse for radios ect.
But if you are trying to create source with the reserve power needed like what is required to starting a diesel engine, the fuse would have to be massive. My 2012 Sierra only lasts 5 minutes with the stereo at normal listening levels before I get a warning about low battery level. Its been back to the dealership and that's normal they say. That's why I'm going dual batteries.
 
fuse

Currently have a 50 amp fuse on both the + & Neg #4 ga. wires. Have bought a 150 amp fuse set up for both lines going to the 16.

A while back I check the Pos. that is routed throught the firewall and though a rubber gromet. There was a bare spot on the pos. side and luckly had not shorted. Firm believer in fuses, can't have too many.
 
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You can always ditch the rubber grommet and go with a commercial fitting that bolts onto the firewall. I always use a plastic loom to help protect things as well.
 
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Agreed about the fuse for radios ect.
But if you are trying to create source with the reserve power needed like what is required to starting a diesel engine, the fuse would have to be massive. My 2012 Sierra only lasts 5 minutes with the stereo at normal listening levels before I get a warning about low battery level. Its been back to the dealership and that's normal they say. That's why I'm going dual batteries.

I has similar problem with my NEW 2012 Silverado...after 3 trips to dealership... and couple jump starts and low voltage issues...
Tech yanked the MEXICAN*Don`t do it* made alternator...guess what? NO solder in the winding terminations going to the output posts...They replaced it with a US built 140 amp version and 40K miles later no problems!
 

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