• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.

Mobile Line Noise

here is a link for the grounding straps that work the best. if you put ends on the cables they need to be soldered to the cables or what I due in most cases is buy in bulk and cut to length then solder the end of the cable good and then drill a hole into the wire and solder for the size needed to fit the bolt or stud you are going to try it on. now this is used for external grounding only. do not use this in place of a regular ground wire with the power feed. I have seen some where I have had to put a ground on the engine to body and ground the hood to the body. even the doors at times. this is a lot of extra work just to use a cb radio but it takes it to get the ground loop closed up so you do not have the noise. most of the newer vehicles has the ground straps on the engine to firewall and hood. the older ones normally do not or it will break after years and a person will remove it.. hope this does not confuse you too much.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ground+straps&_sacat=0
 
Certainly, the seat bolt can't be the only acceptable option for the negative power line; there are other random bolts in a pickup truck cab that ground out to the frame.

Not that I have a technical opposition to the seat bolt. It just seems that there may be more convenient options, than fishing a wire under carpet to the seat, or trying to otherwise keep it out of the way. Also, a bolt on the firewall, or elsewhere under the dash, would be a shorter run. As I previously mentioned, one buddy of mine simply ran a self tapping screw into the floor, right behind his radio.

Am I missing something, with this line of thinking?
 
yes you are missing some thing. any ground will work just in most cases the seat bolt is right by the radio. any good ground will work. I was not the one that mentioned the seat bolt ground. just mentioned it again since this person has not tried it or have not mentioned changing the ground. they never said where the radio is mounted but most people have it on the center hump. who ever brought it up was just using this as an example.
instead of being negative why not just say they could put the ground some where else than the seat bolt if it was not a close option. I never try to post negative items for some one. just give ideas they can consider. for the issue they are having you just have to try different things to find the problem.
why would a person want to drill holes in the truck when other items are close by and if not sealed good could cause a water leak.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 222DBFL
Sorry; it wasn't my intent to be negative, or come off as argumentative.

It just seemed that the seat bolt option kept coming up, without other options presented. In most of my vehicles, the seat bolt would have been a nuisance for me, and I would seek other options. (And have done so; my work truck, and my conversion van, would be 2 such vehicles. In both cases, a wire running to the seat bolt would be something to trip over. )

I was just trying to clarify whether or not seeking other options was a bad idea, if Pamm also found the seat bolt to be a nuisance. Plus, maybe there was something that I didn't know? Seemed a good opportunity to possibly learn something.

Again, apologies if I came off as negative or argumentative. It certainly was not my intent.
 
seat bolt is just an idea that most people use since it is a good option in most cases. the person that has the radio with noise can do what ever they want to do. myself and others here just give ideas for them to try. most of them will not take care of their problem. just throw out ideas you have and let them run with them. like I left a link for every one to read that helps to explain ground loop problems. no one has to agree with the person that put the info out there but it helps a lot of people to understand what they are trying to do.
one other item I have taken for granted is put star washers on the hook up so it will help with making a good connection for grounding. the star washer will penetrate the paint to help with the connection.
 
I read that link on the ground loops, incidentally. Or, more accurately, I scanned over it. Looked like some good stuff. I'll have to go over it again, when I'm less distracted, and more awake. Thanks for posting that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pamm r
Also NO-OX on all connections and make sure all the paint is removed. Under the dash on the steering column plate is another place to place a ground. Done that in a few work vans. Problem with many vehicles is poor grounding from the factory. And what I mean is like what I found, paint under ground lugs, and that was pretty well every one under the hood of my work van. Anyhow. Hope that it gets resolved. Lots of good info that Sonoma posted if you read it. Anyhow. Good day!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pamm r
you do not need to put a cap inside the tank, or a choke. you mount them out side the tank as close as you can get it. I sure hate that you are having such a noise issue. I have a 1987 3/4 ton pickup that it is so noisy on a radio that I pulled it out of it. I have a 1999 1/2 ton and it is not bad at all. my 2003 S10 was very bad until I put all the things on it that has been mentioned so far to it and I still get about a 1 S unit noise on it. before I started it had a 3 S unit of noise. you never did say if the NB or ANL switch helps any at all. a guy on one of the forums a while back was not turning it on and his radio was real bad from what he was stating like you are having and after he turned it on it was where you could use the radio. I have seen a couple radios over the years that had to be adjusted internally to help cancel out some of the noise.there us to be a Galaxy tech on one of the forums for a few years and he had done a write up to help with a noisy radio that they had came out with in about 2002. hard to believe Nomad radio has not joined in on this with some possible help. he is out on the east coast and has had a shop for as long as I have known him. if you can find out which wire actually feeds power to the fuel pump you can buy a noise suppressor from a auto parts store that was used on a points type distributor . it is a small can you can bolt to the chassis and it has one wire that comes out the end of it to help kill noise.I will see if I can find one to post so you will know what it is.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pamm r
Yes NB & ANL helps alot. So where to I get a choke or cap, and what do they look like, I can put it on wires just leaving the take. I can do I pump only to test before doing the other
 
if you will read the back of the card it is on tells you that it goes in line at the fuel pump which is what is making the noise. it does not say fuel pump but says electrical items causing interference with cb radios. it may or may not work for you but this is about the best out that I have used. I had one on the fuel pump feed on a 1997 S10 pickup years ago that it worked good on it. a tornado totaled the pickup in 2003 or I would have had it on my 2003 I bought after the tornado. I have a 1000uf cap on the fuel line on this 2003. when I get this one in I will be putting it on my pickup. it should help with the electrical pulses that you have right now, hopefully.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pamm r

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • dxBot:
    Tucker442 has left the room.
  • @ BJ radionut:
    LIVE 10:00 AM EST :cool:
  • @ Charles Edwards:
    I'm looking for factory settings 1 through 59 for a AT 5555 n2 or AT500 M2 I only wrote down half the values feel like a idiot I need help will be appreciated