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RADIO NOISE? High pitch whine!!!
- Thread starter Buzzard78945
- Start date
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
Proper dc ground and RF ground are two different things. RF does some funny things and it can be hard to imagine what it is doing when you are used to thinking about dc or even conventional ac power. I wonder if some ferrite rings on the injector power supply wires would help. This will usually clean up a noisy wall wart in the house. Definitely do the RF bonding as was suggested. I think that's your best bet as it has fixed the problem for another member.
Chris
Chris
Welcome to my world of PWM, Awesome technology, Its everywhere in our lives. I manipulate pulse width through a signal generator in my work to do many things like
dimming fluorescent lights, motor speed control etc. I have noticed terrible noise from my PWM pool pump. The great guys on this sight had a cure. A 44 mag filter through its center. In reality I'm waiting for a good filter technique, if it exists. I'll stay tuned for a solution. Feel your pain.....MM
dimming fluorescent lights, motor speed control etc. I have noticed terrible noise from my PWM pool pump. The great guys on this sight had a cure. A 44 mag filter through its center. In reality I'm waiting for a good filter technique, if it exists. I'll stay tuned for a solution. Feel your pain.....MM
PWM is a good ay to look at this...
Square wave - and turns into a spurries with tons of smaller sine waves "Ringing" thru anything metal that can accept and re-radiate the noise - propagating thru a harness onto the rest of the vehicle and if possible - even into the vehicles parked, waiting at the light - next to you...
All you need is to get the lowest inductive path for RF to locate ground and a simple copper braid strap mounted from an upper bolt on that mount past the shock rubber mount into the Frame member bolt underneath or alongside is about the best you can do - aside from rerouting onto re-braiding a harness just to equalize the currents from the signals the injector pulse generates - like they do with CATV and Hi-Speed cable and telephone systems to offset their losses in long runs.
It's never easy...
This effort so you know, will not remove the noise, just lessen it. You still have to address the injector onto the harness ground points for those injectors or even the cam to injection timing system that exists to make sure the injection occurs at the right moment - those things are like a tiny reluctors on the camshaft and not always properly shielded. All it does is help the engine do a best guess amongst all the other sensors for engine loading and acceleration.
Using the diesel as a platform, they're now going into GDI - direct inject into cylinders for even Gas powered vehicles and their associated headaches so as you work with this - I've seen something similar in the passenger car injector systems begin to move over into cylinder injection versus the manifold injector types...
Square wave - and turns into a spurries with tons of smaller sine waves "Ringing" thru anything metal that can accept and re-radiate the noise - propagating thru a harness onto the rest of the vehicle and if possible - even into the vehicles parked, waiting at the light - next to you...
All you need is to get the lowest inductive path for RF to locate ground and a simple copper braid strap mounted from an upper bolt on that mount past the shock rubber mount into the Frame member bolt underneath or alongside is about the best you can do - aside from rerouting onto re-braiding a harness just to equalize the currents from the signals the injector pulse generates - like they do with CATV and Hi-Speed cable and telephone systems to offset their losses in long runs.
It's never easy...
This effort so you know, will not remove the noise, just lessen it. You still have to address the injector onto the harness ground points for those injectors or even the cam to injection timing system that exists to make sure the injection occurs at the right moment - those things are like a tiny reluctors on the camshaft and not always properly shielded. All it does is help the engine do a best guess amongst all the other sensors for engine loading and acceleration.
Using the diesel as a platform, they're now going into GDI - direct inject into cylinders for even Gas powered vehicles and their associated headaches so as you work with this - I've seen something similar in the passenger car injector systems begin to move over into cylinder injection versus the manifold injector types...
I’m going to add a ground strap to the frame from bed at lunch!
DEFINE GOOD grounds IN EXPLICIT TERMS. In another words how many places is it grounded? what kind of wire is used to affect the grounding? from what point to what point are the grounds being run? How long are the ground straps? The antenna needs a ground but not a wire run to the battery that may cause more issues than it solves.
I would be interested in knowing what noise the radio has with no antenna attached if the noise goes completely away with the RF gain wide open and the volume all the way up then you have an issue of a different magnitude.
Just some food for thought it's really hard to recommend any course to take unless we have established beyond a shadow of a dought that the injectors are the only culprit.
noise is only when truck is running engine off noise gone... I’m going to add ground strap from bed to frame tonight didn’t get a chance to at lunch
antenna is grounded to bed showed good resistance to battery... big ass cm flat bed should have good ground plane????
Like I said I killed half the engine ran it off of 3 cylinders (not running off of all 6) and the noise changed. Only thing I Can do to chance noise in radio I can post a video of the noise if you would like
I have not pulled the bet it’s a bitch to get to... I have to pull air cleaner box and such I may try tonight along with adding ground strap to bed
You didn't read my post quite right. Do you have the noise with the antenna not connected and the volume wide open and the rf gain full on and no squelch? there I think I covered everything. I didn't say with the engine off.
BONDING STRAPS = THE SHORTER THE BETTER!!!!!!!!!!!!
(And what OldTech03 said)
Good Luck
73
David
(And what OldTech03 said)
Good Luck
73
David
I have an ‘04 CTD.
ALLEN APPLEGATE is the mobile radio guru if for no other reason the ENORMOUS amount of time it took to set up his Guide.
www.K0BG.com
The section on Bonding is comprehensive.
I started on my truck a short while ago. A few of us with CTDs on this site recently joking we are spending time/money the truck needs elsewhere.
But, priorities.
Last week I ordered about 50’ or 100’ of 3/4” flat-braided tinned woven copper. Plus internal/external tooth washers to work with 1/2” #10 screws. Then 6-AWG tinned copper lugs. Loaded up on some Dremel brushes.
A whole lotta 6” & 9” straps is envisioned till I crawl back underneath and make notes. I’ve seen, bonds short as possible, not to exceed 10”.
A variety of copper braid widths appears to be the best direction. But I had to start somewhere (ordered more than I’ll use on this project, have others).
The horizontal surfaces get first attention. Bed-to-cab both sides, all four bed corners. Hood. Cab to frame. Exhaust — the big antenna — will have four straps. Have seen 1.75” batt cable used for this with big worm-drive clamps.
The factory DC grounds I’ve already cleaned up (second time last ten years in Texas). Some should be improved. That’s another phase.
Alternator mount bolts?
In-tank fuel pump DC wiring?
Auto trans trucks (Mommy trucks) have a few more controls than
the Man trans trucks. APPS or something.
There’s a whole history of mobile Amateur Radio you’ll come across that’s fascinating. No one found it easy, not the US Army with their needs or General Motors with in-car AM/FM. Everyone had to learn.
.
ALLEN APPLEGATE is the mobile radio guru if for no other reason the ENORMOUS amount of time it took to set up his Guide.
www.K0BG.com
The section on Bonding is comprehensive.
I started on my truck a short while ago. A few of us with CTDs on this site recently joking we are spending time/money the truck needs elsewhere.
But, priorities.
Last week I ordered about 50’ or 100’ of 3/4” flat-braided tinned woven copper. Plus internal/external tooth washers to work with 1/2” #10 screws. Then 6-AWG tinned copper lugs. Loaded up on some Dremel brushes.
A whole lotta 6” & 9” straps is envisioned till I crawl back underneath and make notes. I’ve seen, bonds short as possible, not to exceed 10”.
A variety of copper braid widths appears to be the best direction. But I had to start somewhere (ordered more than I’ll use on this project, have others).
The horizontal surfaces get first attention. Bed-to-cab both sides, all four bed corners. Hood. Cab to frame. Exhaust — the big antenna — will have four straps. Have seen 1.75” batt cable used for this with big worm-drive clamps.
The factory DC grounds I’ve already cleaned up (second time last ten years in Texas). Some should be improved. That’s another phase.
Alternator mount bolts?
In-tank fuel pump DC wiring?
Auto trans trucks (Mommy trucks) have a few more controls than
the Man trans trucks. APPS or something.
There’s a whole history of mobile Amateur Radio you’ll come across that’s fascinating. No one found it easy, not the US Army with their needs or General Motors with in-car AM/FM. Everyone had to learn.
.
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I can’t upload video or audio file to this thread from my phone may try it on the computer in a bit... BUTT IM ABOUT TO PUT GROUND STRAP ON BED SEE HOW THAT WORKS OUT FOR ME
Oh I got you hold on let me try antenna disconnected GOOD CALL! ...
no noise when antenna disconnected must be a ground plane issue!!! I’m a firm believer in diagnostics via process of elimination... let me ground strap bed real quick