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Old style Galaxy frequency counter module flashing issue

999

Sr. Member
Apr 3, 2011
737
672
103
53
SF Bay Area
I have a spare module that works, and stays stable after it warms up, but flashes as it does so.
I replaced the electrolytic caps thinking that might be the issue, but that did nothing.
I checked the regulator and it outputs 8.04 volts with 11.5 to 14.9 volts input.
I'm looking for a direction to get this solved.

Thanks,
Randy.
Video of what it's doing.
 
Last edited:

Blown input somewhere it's seeking a frequency.

Either loose connector on main PCB - onto loose poor cable - onto loose connection.

I'd look at a shorted or poorly soldered "listening / Sampling" cap in the input line...

There's enough to "Sense" something but this usually indicates either a DEAD short to the input (DC bias) - or open line seeking frequency (too low open part)
 
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It's not in the cable because the module in the radio works just fine.

Should I be looking on the VCO FRE line then for the bad part?
 
When this happens, that "delay" from one frequency to another is the "timing" - the thing has to shut off the display to "count" if there is something forcing it to "recount"

This technology is a bit old, but fun to look at because it's the functional blocks...

Anyhoo, speaking of old,

Better take a look at the on board Regulator Highlited - below.

It's an 8V takes in 13.8 volts then regulates it...

which are you supplying it 13.8?
Or are you giving it 8V from your RADIOS on-board regulator.
The newer chassis supply it with 8V.
Check for 13.8 - the thing is a linear device and if it's as old as I think it is, that thing is on a limited budget as well as time... The older Toshibas in there may be durable, but if it's having problems holding count - then the Caps need to be checked, look at the voltage off the On-board regulator - see if it's "dropping" and, if possible, look into 'scope-ing the output of that IC604 - for if it's weak, then the rest of the counter shows it...​

As you said the display flashes, so if you're not having problems "listening" to the channel - as in it's not snapping in and out as this display flashes to signal the VCO out of lock - then it can't be LACK of signal. Potentially a harness wire that select USB or LSB - or the Counters' own internal amp (IC604) to obtain this signal - isn't working. (IC604 cleans up and send it to a "divisor" mixer that offsets the USB or LSB when it's toggled on) This may explain the warm up process.

The IC604 buffers this signal it's a prescaler to buffer the IF - it cleans it up. So if those caps that power it or the line AFTER (the Output of IC604) are bad, the weak signal can affect "Capture" of the clocking signal.

These IC's used "Caps" and outputs are pretty hefty so they don't pull down the lines from the VCO - tells me it's internal to the counter - else you'd have problems with operating the radio from it pulling down the IF signals the radio uses - and at the same time it sends it to that counter.

Otherwise - you'd notice weak to "really quiet" stations blaring in and out erratically while this warm up occurs.

IF the thing flashes like that and your radio has sounds like a rushing swirl or again, a snap to Lock, and mutes when it's not (Radios' Green RX Light does not means LOCK - just it's getting power) - then IT WOULD be the Radio causing this - for the Frequency counter needs a good strong signal but if the radio couldn't produce it - like it was weak, that thing wouldn't even show a frequency because it has none strong enough to do so.
upload_2020-5-14_17-50-2.png

Found a couple of PDF's to help - they're searchable...

EDIT:
Added...

Ok, you said you replace the Electrolytic's, it is my fear there are also other line filtering caps that may add "noise" to the power supply feed, not unlike the "pops and hiss squeals" from the older radios - I've found that the Mylar or other Tantalum caps that work alongside the electrolytic's may show their age and are adding the noise factor - drowning out the signal the counter is trying to capture.
 

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Last edited:
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999 -

TheTC4511 (IC601) display driver receives BCD information, decodes it, and displays the frequency on the 7-segment displays. The display is "latched" and held until the next BCD info is received. This occurs at the one second (1 hz) intervals generated by the 14060 counter chip (IC608). Since the displayed frequency immediately drops out, it is not being latched and held. This process takes place within the TC4511 display driver chip. The latch is controlled by pin 5 (LE), and to a lesser extent by pins 3 (LT) & 4 (BI).
I would resolder these three pins and see if the flashing condition persists. Otherwise, I would look at the pins on the 4511 on a 'scope when the counter isn't flashing, and compare the traces pin for pin when it is flashing, to see if you can find a difference.
Without a counter in front of me it's hard to analyze, but this is as good a place as any to start.

- 399
 
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When this happens, that "delay" from one frequency to another is the "timing" - the thing has to shut off the display to "count" if there is something forcing it to "recount"

This technology is a bit old, but fun to look at because it's the functional blocks...

Anyhoo, speaking of old,

Better take a look at the on board Regulator Highlited - below.

It's an 8V takes in 13.8 volts then regulates it...

which are you supplying it 13.8?
Or are you giving it 8V from your RADIOS on-board regulator.
The newer chassis supply it with 8V.
Check for 13.8 - the thing is a linear device and if it's as old as I think it is, that thing is on a limited budget as well as time... The older Toshibas in there may be durable, but if it's having problems holding count - then the Caps need to be checked, look at the voltage off the On-board regulator - see if it's "dropping" and, if possible, look into 'scope-ing the output of that IC604 - for if it's weak, then the rest of the counter shows it...​

As you said the display flashes, so if you're not having problems "listening" to the channel - as in it's not snapping in and out as this display flashes to signal the VCO out of lock - then it can't be LACK of signal. Potentially a harness wire that select USB or LSB - or the Counters' own internal amp (IC604) to obtain this signal - isn't working. (IC604 cleans up and send it to a "divisor" mixer that offsets the USB or LSB when it's toggled on) This may explain the warm up process.

The IC604 buffers this signal it's a prescaler to buffer the IF - it cleans it up. So if those caps that power it or the line AFTER (the Output of IC604) are bad, the weak signal can affect "Capture" of the clocking signal.

These IC's used "Caps" and outputs are pretty hefty so they don't pull down the lines from the VCO - tells me it's internal to the counter - else you'd have problems with operating the radio from it pulling down the IF signals the radio uses - and at the same time it sends it to that counter.

Otherwise - you'd notice weak to "really quiet" stations blaring in and out erratically while this warm up occurs.

IF the thing flashes like that and your radio has sounds like a rushing swirl or again, a snap to Lock, and mutes when it's not (Radios' Green RX Light does not means LOCK - just it's getting power) - then IT WOULD be the Radio causing this - for the Frequency counter needs a good strong signal but if the radio couldn't produce it - like it was weak, that thing wouldn't even show a frequency because it has none strong enough to do so.

Found a couple of PDF's to help - they're searchable...

EDIT:
Added...

Ok, you said you replace the Electrolytic's, it is my fear there are also other line filtering caps that may add "noise" to the power supply feed, not unlike the "pops and hiss squeals" from the older radios - I've found that the Mylar or other Tantalum caps that work alongside the electrolytic's may show their age and are adding the noise factor - drowning out the signal the counter is trying to capture.
999 -

TheTC4511 (IC601) display driver receives BCD information, decodes it, and displays the frequency on the 7-segment displays. The display is "latched" and held until the next BCD info is received. This occurs at the one second (1 hz) intervals generated by the 14060 counter chip (IC608). Since the displayed frequency immediately drops out, it is not being latched and held. This process takes place within the TC4511 display driver chip. The latch is controlled by pin 5 (LE), and to a lesser extent by pins 3 (LT) & 4 (BI).
I would resolder these three pins and see if the flashing condition persists. Otherwise, I would look at the pins on the 4511 on a 'scope when the counter isn't flashing, and compare the traces pin for pin when it is flashing, to see if you can find a difference.
Without a counter in front of me it's hard to analyze, but this is as good a place as any to start.

- 399
Thank you both. This gives me good direction to try and figure this out.

Also....I have previously checked the output of the on board 8V reg and it is rock solid.

This is a spare module and the one that is in the radio does not do this. I was considering putting this one up for sale and was checking it for functionality, but I don't want to sell it if it's not 100%.
 
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Check the voltages at the IC chips themselves (pin 16 of the 4511, for example). While the voltage on the output pin of the regulator may be 8vdc, the voltages at the ICs may be a different story.

- 399
 
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When a digital logic chip gets wacky like that it's time to 'scope the power-supply pins on the chips. A meter won't tell you if there are noise 'spikes' riding piggyback on the DC supply voltage powering the chips. Yes, the steady DC voltage has to be right, but it has to be "quiet" as well.
Noisy DC power will cause a digital component to exhibit all manner of mysterious bad habits.

73
 
I just finish Mirage 88 same issue just adjust T601 with the scope
 

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EPT 3600 14B Board I do not like this radios it hard to do aliment and very touchy,modulation is no so good board is fragile :mad: galaxy/ranger (n) uniden/cobra (y)

The radio itself is fine. The counter that is in the radio works 100%. This is a spare that I have had in a drawer for over 10 years that I was thinking about selling, but it's not 100% so it's not going anywhere until I can get the figured out.
 

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