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grounding rod question

Funny this thread would be made and I see it first right after I bought a 6' galvanized steel ground rod and plan to pound it down.

One method I read about is to push the rod down as far as you can, pull it back up and add water to the hole, repeat, up until the point where you can no longer press down by hand, then do the same with a hammer.

Supposedly you can work the entire rod in easily that way and I sure hope so because I don't even have a sledge hammer right now, just your average hammer.

Worst case I end up hitting rock, or can only get it so far down and have to wait on borrowing a sledge hammer later on.


It works. Did one here in Texas clay soil recently that way.

Did one years ago ALSO using the garden hose as water jet. PVC tube as Guide. Hose attach at ground end inside.

Helluva mess. Good day for an inquisitive digging dog to help supervise. Mud raining back down.

Imagine how uncomfortable getting wet on a 106F day!

This Blackland Prairie clay soil being what it is, easiest to do inside the window 12-24 hours after rainfall. (Saturation).

That window is also how to permanently rid yourself of dallisgrass. Pop those bastards out permanently. Sharpen up a two-tine weed fork on the house steps as you mentally broadcast onrushing Paspalum Dilatatum destruction during a nice and looong gentle rain.

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Cut it off, go out 8 feet and drive the rest of the rod. We did this for a commercial site years back that had a limestone ledge almost exactly four feet down. We did this for about three or four rods and went out a ways from the site compound as a result. Here I have a ledge about seven feet down. I called it good and god them off just below the surface and cad welded the bonding wires.
 
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-impact-hammer-kit-92037.html


92037_I.jpg
 
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I'd like to see a hammer drill drive ground rods around here. Nice if you live in sandy soil or good bottom land. Driving 1/2 or 5/8 or even 3/4 rods 8 to 10 feet deep in most places takes more than a little air tool. I have one and would not even consider it to drive rods. Too many stones and once down about 3 feet you hit slate and a 10 pound sledge gets you another 3 feet into the soft top layers but after that forget it. People standing ten feet away could feel the ground shake every time I hit the ground rods while driving them into that slate. You could feel a definite WUUMP! each time I hit it. That was using a 5/8 galvanized steel rod with the end ground to a good point. Forget using any other method other than brute force. Some suggested drilling a hole first however just like using a water hose to install ground rods, it is NOT a good idea as they should be installed into undisturbed soil for maximum contact and best efficiency.
 
Oh, hey I never thought about that! I bet the rod fits in the bit socket? I'm going to get another ground rod just to try that out. Haha
I took the pointy bit and put it into an old deep socket and just hammered away.
First use a small shovel and dig in a small place to fill with rock salt and hammer away. after you have it down to where you want it water it so the salty water goes down the shaft. Good ground connection guaranteed.
The socket allows you to drive in different diameter rods securely.
 
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I have a pneumatic hammer that I drive mine into the ground with. I had an electrician watch me do this and he went out and bought an air compressor and the same air hammer as mine.
I sank the 8' rod full length in less than a minute.
THAT'S IT!! I couldn't think of what it was called, pneumatic hammer. they use those to drive the ground rods for the rig
 
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