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148GTL MALAYSIA

I dropped the deadkey on VR10 down to 1 watt swinging 13ish so I can run my amp.
Is it advisable to unlock the clarifier?
And I have to know.... HOW did you spot that out of place resistor? I could understand if I had mentioned a problem and you were trouble shooting the circuit...but to just "see" it. I'm amazed, honestly.
 
I checked the drawings and TR24 is a 2sc945 so I went thru the connex and found this one... The hFE is 345. According to the data sheet, the "P" series should be 200 min/400 max... so my question is, can I use this one to put her back stock or at least closer than she is without it?
 

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To unlock the Clarifier is up to you - but if it were mine - I would...

Here's another tid-bit of why I knew/Know about the parts that you asked about...

Back in 1998 I bought the Cobra 148 GTL F - problems right out of the box with it.

Back in the USENet days (Rec.radio.cb) I posted several articles about my opinions about Cobra not being Uniden built anymore - and this radio (the 148F) it's PLL wouldn't even lock unless it's "warmed up" from being left off.

Also had power supply re-routng changes for their original designs that use a separate branch to power their Audio amp and Finals side - this new work went thru the Power choke, all of it. You may have some work ahead of you yet - to fix the one you've got. Especially if it's been left stock from the original days it was made.

So, to Know someone - is To Love them, and To Hate Them - Right now I've shown just about as much love as I Know how to, without bashing the last stronghold of Discrete production - that being Ranger.

For even Uniden has turned it's back towards the very roots it started from, CB (Yes, I said that - think about this before unleashing your thoughts to countermand it folks - you know who you are, Even Realistic contracted thru them).

How far - back in the earlier days of when 23 channels, then they expanded to 40 - and with costs of manufacture going up - the Radio production development was getting pushed offshore into places like the Philippines and Taiwan and Hong-Kong - much of our ability to keep the technology close and within reach, went with it.

Radio Shack was one of the last few places you could get discretes to fix equipment - even if it wasn't the best stuff on earth to use...

So yeah, I'm not sitting in some rocking chair reminiscing about old days, I'm here helping others keep their equipment from getting blown up or used a wheel chocks, or landfill door-stops.
 
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I dropped the deadkey on VR10 down to 1 watt swinging 13ish so I can run my amp.
Is it advisable to unlock the clarifier?
And I have to know.... HOW did you spot that out of place resistor? I could understand if I had mentioned a problem and you were trouble shooting the circuit...but to just "see" it. I'm amazed, honestly.
If you plan on spending time on sideband i personally like to have the clarifier unlocked.
 
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Another lil hick-up.... The "voice lock" pot doesn't have a center stop and is very loose so I pulled a B20K from the connex corpse to replace it with, tight with 20.2K resistances in both directions. I'm still unclear if I need to replace TR24 or not?I'm going to find someone to unlock the clarifier since it will need to be aligned afterwards.
Again, Thanks for the help sorting this thing out.
 
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Is this accurate? I've seen a few different ones but this one seems to be the easiest.
 

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144inBama
I found that installation of a center detent clarifier potentiometer on my 148 “Made in the Malaysia” (AKA “The Turd”) was not a good idea. When moving from the center detent to either direction, the frequency jumped more than I wanted it to just getting the pot off the detent.
I have since changed it back to a non-detent potentiometer and dialed down the amount of “slide” to tame the clarifier.
Just my experience, yours may vary.
It appears your 148 has been recapped. Should give you many years of service!

73
David
 
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