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Coax jacketing and sun Polyethylene v PVC?

Tokin, admittedly your issue is about UV resistance with the outer cover of coax and it is a worthy concern.

However, there are other problems with using coax over a long period.

1.
Below are 2 old links to posts I made where I talked about some old contaminated RG8x coax I used long ago. And, I too could not easily detect the problem I had at the time just using my radio.

Here we have a contamination issue of water getting into the coax via the feed point design on an A99 and fouling the copper shield. IMO this is a very serious type of concern and it might not take long to happen.


Coax help needed.


My antenna system...

2. Maybe you have heard concerns about connecting Copper and Aluminum. Contamination between copper and aluminum physically touching...is possibly another of the more serious issue if it is not mitigated somehow.

3. Some coax producers and maybe LMR claim to use oxygen free copper (OFC) in their double shielded coax, and this idea is supposed to markedly improve conductivity and whatever else is in the imagination of the customer's mind.

And here we have a copper mesh wrapped right on top of a aluminum tape and obviously these two metals are in direct contact with each other, as noted in #2. And that might not be a good idea.

Below is an Internet snip-it about OFC and it maybe of dubious origins too, but it may give some insight into all the advertising schemes used to help persuade customers to buy.

START OUOTE:
People also ask

What is OFC wire?

  • OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) wire is a type of wire that often gets sold by stereo shops as the best stuff to hook up speakers or a high power amp. I occasionally get asked about it. I’ve had folks ask if I can make battery cables out of it.
See all results for this question

What is OFHC copper?

What does oxygen free mean?

What is the abbreviation for oxygen free copper?

  • Oxygen-free copper ( OFC ) or oxygen-free high thermal conductivity (OFHC) copper is a group of wrought high conductivity copper alloys that have been electrolytically refined to reduce the level of oxygen to .001% or below.
END QUOTE:

From what I've read here and further on, OFC is rated in 3 groups, and 2 of these groups (less expensive) show little to no improvement in conductivity. And 1 group (much more expensive) shows some improvement in conductivity, but explains this group is used in very high tech applications and it cost like Gold. What are the chances of this being used to make Coax?

Conclusion:

Believing the words of any business claims in advertising reports...is about like trying to get the truth from little Johnny when Daddy asked him...if he knew who got into Mommies fresh baked Apple Pie without her permission.:cry:
 
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So i decided to go with mil spec rg213 from allied wire & cable. They also carry a mil spec M17/189-00001 aka rg212 which looks to be the same as the rg213 but with a different halogen free/low smoke jacket material. I see the spec sheet doesn't mention percentage of shielding either.
It also appears the military is changing over to this low smoke jacketed cable after looking at the comments for the rg213 data sheet. Im requesting a sample because im curious about uv friendliness compared to the pvc jacket.
Screenshot_20200803-125749.png

https://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=m17/74-rg213

https://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=m17/189-00001
 
Plenum cable is coated with a fire-retardant coating (usually Teflon) so that in case of a fire it does not give off toxic gasses and smoke as it burns. Twisted-pair and coaxial versions of cable are made in plenum versions
 
So i went with rg213 m17 and cut it to 71' 7 2/16" which is 6 electrical half wavelengths.
I got it close by tuning it horizontally since i can easily tilt it down then fune tuned it vertical at 17' above ground. Admittedly some parameters could be better but it got dark and i threw my lower back out this morning.
20200808_202829_HDR.jpg 20200808_202841_HDR.jpg
 
Searching the threads I stumbled across this one which you fellas are talking about uv resistance. I'm running a new antenna system but unlike yours, mine is a mobile installation. Class 8 truck, 2020 freightliner cascadia where not only sun exposure but wind, all types of weather are all things to guard from. I've got a custom bracket ordered, I've got good pl259's and a really nice routing plan as well. Only part missing is which choice to go with the coax. Rg8x just enough to get from the radio to the antenna with so many choices, just definitely not going with the truck stop brand x stuff. I see DX engineering has a couple of choices that are type II but would like to ask if you fellas might suggest something I'm not aware of yet. I'll be using a modified cobra 29 with a rm Italy kl505v sometimes but occasionally using the Stryker 447hpc2 so the cable is plenty for the power I'll be putting through it. Now it's just deciding on the coax brand.
 
Hi Dorado.

I’be bought two spools of RG-8X from DX-Engineering. It is good stuff. Why so many ? Because I resell it. to cbers around here.

It is the only RG-8X with Type II jacket on the market. In theory it won’t get green (contaminated) with time like the regular RG-8X. Jacket is more durable.

But technically speaking, RG-58cable is the way to go in mobile installations because it has solid polyethylene dielectric which is more resistant to sharp bends and crushing. The only disadvantage is that it has less power rating than the RG8X. According with the equipment you have, the RG-58 will do it. Power handling is around 350w continuously. Even if you run a 500w amplifier, it will hold well.

If you are going to use RG8X, be aware of sharp bends because dielectric is foam polyethylene and sharp bends and crushing can cause migration of center conductor to the shield which can cause short circuit or impedance issues. Here is some info:

“ An unfortunate property of the foam used in foam dielectric coax is its lack of mechanical stability under some conditions. The center conductor in foam coax can migrate toward the shield causing an “impedance bump” or worse, a center conductor-to-shield short. Several user- created conditions can lead to foam coax developing a short circuit. A major culprit is bending or coiling foam coax with a tight radius. “


But there is a better choice for RG8X, the Times Microwave LMR-240, same diameter than RG-8x or LMR-195 which diameter is like the RG-58. More power handling capabilities but it is has foam dielectric as well.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Alexis, I appreciate your advice so I'll look into your suggestions. I knew amongst everyone here good suggestions would come forth. Being It's not so simple of a coax run to make a clean installation, I don't want to have to do again anytime soon. Hoping to get a few years without having to do it all over so good coax is a must.
 
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I used 25’ of the DX-E version of RF Davis Buryflex as contributor Redbeard U812 had done this and and it had helped in not picking up stray noise (for him). (DX-E 400MAX).

I figured I could also use it at home.

Not what I would want where true flexibility is wanted. My routing involved one bend of note to go from the back of the sleeper exterior and then up thru past the bunk to the cab.

Let’s say the stiffness was an asset in keeping it out of the way. Did not pick up inverter as it passed it almost directly.

Today I’d rather have something more flexible. (No more RR to FF thru-truck routing).

RG8X isn’t perfect but it’s more than “good enough” for the main coax run plus jumpers in the 579 Peterbilt where I’ve used it.

The FME-ended WILSON RG8X CoPhase Harness has been easy to use in both the FL & Pete. (You’ve seen that my “best” tractor ran a pair of 7’ Skipshoters: if I could hear them, they could hear me (99v2 + 7505v)).

I’d do that setup again in a heartbeat. Power straight to fuse panel feed.

My jumpers (at present) are RG-8X (DX-8X). And, to start over I believe I’d use their DXE-8U for the big truck.

What will you have at either end? Is the next question. Balun/CMC Choke at antenna and cube Coax Filter at radio? (In which case turning the coax onto toroids not important). This would be decisive for me.

The 7505v I own will go in the pickup. (I’d like to have a 7405v for the Pete). I prefer all parts for any given rig of three be interchangeable. (Direct burial looks best for “tough”).

UV Resistant
split loom is the answer to outdoors while mobile, IMO. I find I prefer it for every item gone to the exterior.

Flame Resistant for interior or under hood runs of power & coax.

In fact I cover every run of every type with split loom.

A few zip-ties (each end plus center), and TESA Wire Loom Harness Tape over ends before connector.

I like the “look” and that abrasion or dirt concerns are minimized with “assembled” runs.

I recently did some RF Bond jumpers this way. (17) discrete parts per jumper before assembly begun.

.
.
 
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