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I won the Lottery

Mudfoot

Elmer
Jun 17, 2009
10,917
6,290
698
62
Southeast Ohio
Bought a $1.00 Ohio Cash Explosion ticket and won $500. Bought $20 more, but didn't win. I was still pretty happy driving on my way home, then heard a God awful noise. Damn front wheel bearing seized up.

Gonna cost me more than $500.

Moral: Don't play the Lottery.

As I was sourcing the parts needed, I discovered my 17 year old Kia uses split tapered bearings that requires the use of, one out of 21 different spacers to set preload. Of course, there's a special tool and spacers, needed to accomplish this.

Ain't that the shit?
 
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That wheel bearing setup is surprising. Most mfg are moving to completely sealed unit hubs. Seems like a waste, but can't deny how convenient they are to replace...
 
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Convenient? Front wheel bearing on my F350 is sealed unit. I've had to replace two of them in 130K miles. They cost $325 each, and you're not replacing one on the side of the road.
Front wheel bearing on my 1-1/2 ton Chevy costs less than 20 bucks, and you can replace it on the side of the road.
One of many reasons I hate "modern" vehicles.
 
Convenient? Front wheel bearing on my F350 is sealed unit. I've had to replace two of them in 130K miles. They cost $325 each, and you're not replacing one on the side of the road.
Front wheel bearing on my 1-1/2 ton Chevy costs less than 20 bucks, and you can replace it on the side of the road.
One of many reasons I hate "modern" vehicles.

I've got a 2002 Dodge with sealed front wheel bearings. You buy the whole assembly wheel studs and all. It was around $250 10 years ago. Easy to replace but stupidly expensive.
 
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The unit bearing hub is a disaster on the early dodge durango and dodge pickups. On the two wheel drive, when the bearing fails, the wheel will come completely off the vehicle.

That's fantastic. I'm glad I replaced mine when I did. The ball joints were worn out around 130k and the left wheel bearing sounded dry. It has over 300k now but is rarely driven. I need to change the oil and fuel filters. I have a funny feeling it's going to be a cold winter so some fuel treatment might be a good idea.
 
I have a guy from the Kia forum that's sending me the bearing spacer tool and a few spacers. You take the knuckle off and put it in a vice. The tool takes the place of the axle. When you install the bearings and torque to 150 ft. lb., it seats the bearing. Once that's done, you use a pull Guage to measure seal drag, which gives preload.

The preload value is matched to a chart that determines the thickness of the bearing spacer. There are 21 spacers to choose from. He's sending me a few of the thickest ones. I'll have to use 400 grit sandpaper to get the required thickness. It's a crappy system, but to much or to little preload will eat the bearings fast. I've read countless posts of dudes only getting a few hundred miles, or a few thousand miles of life out of replaced bearings. It's not a difficult repair, but sure is a critical one.

One good thing, the bearing are cheap and the knuckle hub assembly is easy to remove. I read this setup was changed when Hyundai acquired Kua in 2005. The Ford Festival used the same setup. Their tool and spacers also work on the Kia. I owned a 2002 Festiva. I don't recall changing a bearing, though. Now, my rear bearings are normal ones.

Engineers can be stupid....
 
That wheel bearing setup is surprising. Most mfg are moving to completely sealed unit hubs. Seems like a waste, but can't deny how convenient they are to replace...

Yep! First time I've ever encountered it. It's a good thing I read about it. I just would have plopped new bearings in and reused the same spacer. I'm thinking that's what the previous owner/shop did, which is why it seized. Had to much preload. I rotated the tires the day I brought it home. I didn't notice any play or noise. I had no warning at all. Just seized up.
 
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This last spring I did u joints, seals and ball joints on my ford and discovered the unit bearing seal was leaking. It really sucks replacing an otherwise good hub due to a seal. I should really order one so I don't have to lock hubs this winter.

I come here for play and you all make me think about work. Yeah, thanks
 
No money won here but dang assembled bearing pack went out in our esclade. Same as chebby 1500 wheel bearings $200 a side.think im puttin both in.
My 91 dodge 150 cost me $22.59 for every bearing n seal for front from rock auto. I got genuine timkin bearings stamped made in usA
 

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