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2510 meter light rubber mount.

twa77

Well-Known Member
May 2, 2008
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South Dakota
I have a 2510 and I need a new rubber mount for the meter light. I have been searching the internet hi and low and have so far came up empty. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like this
 

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I have a 2510 and I need a new rubber mount for the meter light. I have been searching the internet hi and low and have so far came up empty. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like this
First I would replace it with an ordinary grommet of appropriate size to hold a 5mm LED. A dab of hot glue to stabilize it. Forget using the old grain-o-wheat bulb. The heat from that bulb probably toasted the old part you posted and in some cases it has damaged the panel (hot spot) on these radios. I personally like the flat top wide angle LED’s that evenly covers wide panels. You can get them in many colors pre-wired (resistor included) for 12v, warm white being my favorite. In most cases you will find these LED’s too bright. Simply add 1K or more resistance in series to suit your taste. The link is an example of what I would get. If not "flat top" go with a "diffused" one or you can even lightly sandpaper any clear LED. There's no need to mount anything until your satisfied with the result. Your 2510 will thank you for the upgrade, I know mine did.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-5mm-...-Wide-Angle-Light-LED-Diodes-USA/322336209191
 
And if you decide to go a different DO NOT use the bulb with the little metal ring near the wires. They will get too hot and do a lot of damage.
I have a bag full of those bulbs and I don’t have a clue why I still save them. I’ll never use those, nor would I ever give them away. Their proper place should be displayed next to my vacuum pumped (sharp point at the top) 1898 Edison bulb, but they don’t deserve such historic royalty.
 
I plan on using led. I did try an 8 mm green led facing down in that hole in the top. That seemed to light it up nice and even. It fits pretty good and the ring at the bottom of the led rests on top of the meter housing. I’ve been experimenting with different configurations with quite a few being unsatisfactory.
 
I watched that video. Im not sure I have the kajones. This works ok. Yes i know its a lincoln I called it a 2510 so it wasn’t confused with lincoln 2
 

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I watched that video. Im not sure I have the kajones. This works ok. Yes i know its a lincoln I called it a 2510 so it wasn’t confused with lincoln 2
Looks good. Experimentation is the key. I forgot to mention that I sometimes place a 10k pot in series to get the brightness ball-parked. Then afterwords I replace the measured value with a fixed resistor.
 
Let the sh$t storm begin ... see my video on my 2510 LED replacement.


That will work, but IMO that’s way too extreme. A single wide angle flat top LED or something like twa77 did will give satisfactory results without any cutting involved.
 
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I’m not sure on green. I ordered a few other colors in 8mm diffused. I found that green in my junk drawer. It’s the only one I have. I have tons of 5 mm of different styles, most are super bright clear lens ones.
 
I sometimes place a 10k pot in series to get the brightness ball-parked. Then afterwords I replace the measured value with a fixed resistor.

I do the same. LEDS with the "scientifically" calculated dropping resistor always turn out to bright for my liking.

I do like the even light provided by Mike's solution (though a bit bright for me-and easily adjusted) but agree with twa77-may be a bit too extreme for me to get there.

73
David
 
And that's the key...

Diffusion...

Point source - Compared to other light sources LED,s are a lot like the old 3-D cell Magnum flashlight - Mirror and Lens system turns the flashlight into a spot light. Only Magnums ability has an adjustable focus/lens to turn it into a beam and back to flood - but still focused in one direction...

upload_2021-4-22_7-54-43.png

We use a 5mm LED with a flat front for this. The bullet-nose LEDs direct the light in a narrow cone.

Frosted lens also works but in any case, the epoxy molded "bullet" nosed are too focused to work well for the type of mount the HR2510 is. Has to be sanded, roughed up and somehow the "magnifier nose" needs to be sanded off to provide a more diffused light to light the chamber.

I've even seen "jumbo" LEDs wrapped with a 3M Scotch Tape (frosted/Satin hide type) as one type of method used to diffuse the light from a center cone to a more broadened globe - that was a mess to clear out...

The problem lies in how the point source the Grain of Wheat is, the light emanation was 360 degrees barring mount and shadows. LED uses that Gosh Darn Cup as the Cathode and the wire bonds to the grain for the Anode, between the two - that cup then takes the grains' light and shows (shoves) it into one direction - up - and the molded epoxy resin does the rest.

LED's come in various lens shapes, even colors, but all have the same inherited problem of mount design. The Cup it's the only one that has proven to be rigid and strong/durable enough to handle the torques of everyday life.

The chip used isn't big enough to offset the height of the cusp of the cup - so that has been (it's) the shade of this design all along.
 
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I have a bag full of those bulbs and I don’t have a clue why I still save them. I’ll never use those, nor would I ever give them away. Their proper place should be displayed next to my vacuum pumped (sharp point at the top) 1898 Edison bulb, but they don’t deserve such historic royalty.
What I usually do is cut the metal retainer off with a very sharp side cutter. Then put a bit of hot glue near the wires and shrink wrap that area. Sometimes I break the bulb but I have been pretty lucky. They seem to give the correct lighting. I am thinking of buying the correct wheat lamps and make my own. It would be a lot less work.
 

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