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How to fuse ?
- Thread starter 2greedy
- Start date
Either option will work. Both have their pros and cons but neither one has a significant advantage. I'd use whatever I had the parts for, or was the easiest to install. The only real important thing is placing the fuses as close to the battery as possible, in order to protect as much of the wiring as possible.
Another thing worth mentioning is, this type of fusing is typically designed to protect your vehicle from a fire in the event of a short circuit. It is unable to effectively protect the individual transistors anytime more than one push pull pair, shares a common fuse. Even then, additional circuitry is required to shut the entire amplifier off when any one fuse blows.
Another thing worth mentioning is, this type of fusing is typically designed to protect your vehicle from a fire in the event of a short circuit. It is unable to effectively protect the individual transistors anytime more than one push pull pair, shares a common fuse. Even then, additional circuitry is required to shut the entire amplifier off when any one fuse blows.
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The way I did mine, which some may consider "overboard" was to install a 300 amp continuous duty relay at the battery with a switch in the same little box as my volt and amp meter. This allows me to kill power to the entire line side in the event there is a short that doesn't blow the fuse. For instance, you have a 250 amp fuse, your load side grounds but not enough to draw 250+ amp to pop the fuse, you're sitting there with 100 amps heating up the wire and burning stuff up and the fuse never blinks, I can flip the switch and kill the power before more damage is done.
As long as the relay contacts do not fuse closed. Been there done that in something else that drew heavy current. It wasn't pretty.
In that situation, it would act as a basically a terminal block and simply default back to fuse protection, wouldn't it? It's fused before the relay so any overcurrent on the load side, including the relay, would pop the fuse.
The diagram you have drawn, is an acceptable way to place a fuse between your amplifier and power supply. If there is any length in the wire, keep the fuse closer to the power supply.
Yes, that is true and would work. IN my case I was dealing with something that was not fused. Buddy had a winch on his 4x4 and didn't fuse it. Said he could't find one heavy enough. As soon as I mentioned the local car stereo install shop all he said was "Oh.....yeah".
Another source for these large fuses is a marine supply store. They are often used as the main fuse on a big boat. If you don't live near marina, order online.Yes, that is true and would work. IN my case I was dealing with something that was not fused. Buddy had a winch on his 4x4 and didn't fuse it. Said he could't find one heavy enough. As soon as I mentioned the local car stereo install shop all he said was "Oh.....yeah".
I use WEST MARINE as available. Markup isn’t friendly, but as a national chain they’re reliable.
Was just in there recently for some ANCOR 6-AWG and BUSSMANN BATT Termination fuse.
No splice. Attach at BATT terminal.
Working in the steel industry, I can get any fuse size needed, look kinda funny with a 600 amp disconnect under the back seat though.. LOL
I live in Nova Scotia. No point is ever more than 40 miles from salt water. LOL Yeah........we have marinas and marine suppliers.
My fuses in the mobile are two fire extinguishers
Talk about "Slow Blow"!My fuses in the mobile are two fire extinguishers