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GM Sidepost + Quick Disconnect Recommendations???

B

Blackcat2950

Guest
Hey guys,



I'm looking for some recommendations on a mobile installation I need to do on GM full sized truck. Here's the setup:



- RCI 2950DX

- Joker 1x4 Amp (105A alt, 600 CCA battery)

- Wilson 5000 MM

- RG-8X coax everywhere



I have two special requirements:



1) I need some sort of power quick disconnects at the amp for times when I need to remove it from the vehicle. (which is typically once or twice a week)



2) I need to move the whole mobile rig (radio, amp and antenna) from the current truck to a new (identical) truck every 6 months. (don't ask why, I just do. :p )





I want to run the radio's power (fused at 8A) off of the cigarette lighter (fused at 20A)... which I do today w/o the amp w/ no problems whatsoever. I'm planning to use MonsterCable PowerFlex 4ga., both pos and neg, directly to the battery through the firewall fused at 80A. Antenna is easy... though the door jam. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)">



My question to everyone is are you using any insulated, power quick disconnects that are good for at least 80A @ 14v... and if so, what are you using and where do I get em? Also any suggestions for the side post battery connections? Monster also sells side post 'extenders', but is there anything better/easier for frequent install/deinstalls? I'm concerned w/ the extenders because the pos. side post w/ the extender will come damn close to the inside sidewall of the hood compartment if I do that. GM has a rubber insulator on the Pos terminal as-is.



I looked at Parts Express and MCM for the disconnects w/ no luck...



Any other suggestions would be appreciated...



--Blackcat




</p>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub86.ezboard.com/ublackcat2950.showPublicProfile?language=EN>Blackcat2950</A> at: 7/29/02 3:06:29 pm
 

B

Blackcat2950

Guest
Hey guys,



I'm looking for some recommendations on a mobile installation I need to do on GM full sized truck. Here's the setup:



- RCI 2950DX

- Joker 1x4 Amp (105A alt, 600 CCA battery)

- Wilson 5000 MM

- RG-8X coax everywhere



I have two special requirements:



1) I need some sort of power quick disconnects at the amp for times when I need to remove it from the vehicle. (which is typically once or twice a week)



2) I need to move the whole mobile rig (radio, amp and antenna) from the current truck to a new (identical) truck every 6 months. (don't ask why, I just do. :p )





I want to run the radio's power (fused at 8A) off of the cigarette lighter (fused at 20A)... which I do today w/o the amp w/ no problems whatsoever. I'm planning to use MonsterCable PowerFlex 4ga., both pos and neg, directly to the battery through the firewall fused at 80A. Antenna is easy... though the door jam. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)">



My question to everyone is are you using any insulated, power quick disconnects that are good for at least 80A @ 14v... and if so, what are you using and where do I get em? Also any suggestions for the side post battery connections? Monster also sells side post 'extenders', but is there anything better/easier for frequent install/deinstalls? I'm concerned w/ the extenders because the pos. side post w/ the extender will come damn close to the inside sidewall of the hood compartment if I do that. GM has a rubber insulator on the Pos terminal as-is.



I looked at Parts Express and MCM for the disconnects w/ no luck...



Any other suggestions would be appreciated...



--Blackcat




</p>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub86.ezboard.com/ublackcat2950.showPublicProfile?language=EN>Blackcat2950</A> at: 7/29/02 3:06:29 pm
 
P

PEAKABOO

Guest
I prefer the lenco or tweeko welding connectors, they are a cam lock design. Rated at 400 amps each, they "clean" each time you connect them and you can do a positive (female) at the battery (batteries) and male negative at the battery (batteries). Do the opposite at the amp side and you will never be able to hook it up backwards. I find these superior to any other connector out there. Give me an email and I can send you some with what ever length of wire you may need. I can also include a fuse if you do not have one. If you are going to use #4 wire then a 100 amp fuse is fine for that gauge of wire and will also not allow the voltage drop that a smaller fuse would. In a short a 100 amp fuse will blow instantly when protecting #4 wire.


notchoke.gif
-=PEAKABOO=-</a></p>
 
P

PEAKABOO

Guest
I prefer the lenco or tweeko welding connectors, they are a cam lock design. Rated at 400 amps each, they "clean" each time you connect them and you can do a positive (female) at the battery (batteries) and male negative at the battery (batteries). Do the opposite at the amp side and you will never be able to hook it up backwards. I find these superior to any other connector out there. Give me an email and I can send you some with what ever length of wire you may need. I can also include a fuse if you do not have one. If you are going to use #4 wire then a 100 amp fuse is fine for that gauge of wire and will also not allow the voltage drop that a smaller fuse would. In a short a 100 amp fuse will blow instantly when protecting #4 wire.


notchoke.gif
-=PEAKABOO=-</a></p>
 
M

Moose460

Guest
Blackcat:



Yes that is them. You may want to solder the ends of the power cable to give it a better connection. I use the Tweeco brand welding lead disconnects. You can find them at welding supply or Tack stores. Can't beat them but that aren't cheap.


moosesig.gif
</p>
 
M

Moose460

Guest
Blackcat:



Yes that is them. You may want to solder the ends of the power cable to give it a better connection. I use the Tweeco brand welding lead disconnects. You can find them at welding supply or Tack stores. Can't beat them but that aren't cheap.


moosesig.gif
</p>
 

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