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Need some hubs!!

Discussion in 'CB Antennas' started by Jay in the Mojave, Dec 20, 2004.

  1. Jay in the Mojave

    Jay in the Mojave Active Member

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    Hello Catsknr:



    Yeah those cast aluminum hubs are a good idea for low cost mass production light weight antenna stuff, but just don't hold up.



    There are new technologies in casting materials that will allow the aluminum to be way more flexible, so the cracking and breaking of the Hubs will not happen. But first time casting tooling will be really expensive, but do-able $$$$



    www.a1antennas.com/r&d2.html



    Here are some "Billet" type Hubs I had made on a CNC Machine for some Quads I am going to make. But these Hubs do not fit over the Moonraker Boom of 1 5/8 inches OD, they are made for a stronger 2 inch OD Boom.



    I have plans to upgrade the Moonraker 4 Beam Antenna when time permits. I may use the 2 inch Boom and these Hubs shown.



    But to answer you question, I may have to ask my machinist to make some exact copies of the old out of production Avanti Hubs.

    I know a lot of people would like to have some of these. These Hubs may cost as much as 30 dollars a set. I will have to check.



    Jay in the Mojave



    www.a1antennas.com <img src=http://users.joplin.com/dutch64804/posticon44.gif ALT=":44">


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  2. Jay in the Mojave

    Jay in the Mojave Active Member

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    Hello Catsknr:



    During the past few years I have had two complaints about the Interceptor 10K Antenna doing the same thing, changing SWR with different power levels and in the wind.



    We found that the Stainless steel hose clamps where not properly tighten down durning assembly. After verifying all the clamps where tight, the antenna was good to go, staying with its low SWR at all times.



    With all aluminum antennas that have "Telescoping Aluminum sections" if you can move or turn the aluminum tubing by hand something is wrong. Some antennas supply you with very cheaply made hose clamps that arn't worth the power to blow up. Thats why I use the best Marine / Aircraft Grade Stainless Steel Hose Clamps. The Antenna will become useless with just one bad connection.



    It some cases while on the roof while risking life and limb, in cold unhealthful weather, while the ol lady was yelling at me that I am nuts working on the roof in bad weather I simply drilled a 3/16 hole and installed a 10-24 Stainless Steel Screw and locking nut to hold the two "Telescoping Aluminum Tubing pieces together. After all I had to be able to get out, somethings women don't understand.



    The Penetrator 500 has the SO-239 connector wired to a 10-24 screw (about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long) in the Base Insulator of the P-500 Antenna. This screw gets rusty and crappy. This is a possible source of the intermittent connection causing the high SWR at higher power levels.



    Having someone shake the antenna at low power levels may indicate a intermittent connection, while watching the SWR meter.



    When I have rebuilt the P-500 Antennas, I have replaced the Bottom Insulator, and installed a new Stainless Steel 10-24 screw and nuts and washers, to make the connection from the SO-239 Connector to the 10-24 Screw, that connects to the matching wires.



    You may be forced to leave the tuning wires connected to the rusty bolt in the bottom insulator, as the nuts may be frozen on the screw, and you don't want to damage the tuning wires. Be advised.



    Drill out the 4 ea rusty steel Pop Rivets holding the Base or Bottom Insulator to the two point mount bracket. Go slow and be careful so that you can reuse the old bottom insulator, or install a new insulator. Now you can get a pair of Vice Grips on the both sides of the screw and either unscrew the nuts or break off the screw.



    Replace the old Nickle Plated SO-239 connector, and install a new Silver Plated Teflon type SO-239 Connector. You will have to drill out the old rusty pop rivets. You can use stainless steel 6-32 screws 1/2 long to hold the new SO-239 connector in place. Or Aircraft type Rivets that require to be squeezed or shot in, NOT pop rivets.



    Replace the old rusty 10-24 screw, washers and nuts. Use the same length wire as was originally installed. Now heres the hard part. The new screw must be installed thru the bottom insulator, with a Locking nut very tightly so that when the nuts that hold the tuning wires in place, are tightened down, the nut will not turn the screw inside the bottom insulator, causing another intermittent connection.



    When all this is done, apply a light coating of Black RTV Silicon Rubber to seal all the connections. And around the bottom insulator surface.



    Install the Bottom Insulator with 4 ea Stainless Steel 10-24 screws 1/2 long, and locking nuts.



    This will be a little time consuming, but its doable.



    Please let us know how it comes out.



    Jay in the Mojave



    www.a1antennas.com <img src=http://users.joplin.com/dutch64804/posticon44.gif ALT=":44">


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  3. Jay in the Mojave

    Jay in the Mojave Active Member

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    Hello Catsknr:



    I talked to my Machinist last night, and gave him a unbroken set of Moonraker Hubs. I asked him to make a set again from Billet aluminum on his CNC Machine. So I will have the materials delivered this week and we will see how they come out.



    Jay in the Mojave <img src=http://users.joplin.com/dutch64804/posticon44.gif ALT=":44">


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  4. Jay in the Mojave

    Jay in the Mojave Active Member

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    Hello Gary:



    I also believe that the Sigma 2 or 5/8 Hubs will work on a Moonraker 4 beam antenna.



    You can measure the holes, they should be 1 5/8" or 1.625 inches ID (Inside Diameter).



    I think the 1 5/8 ID Hubs are used on the Sigma 2 or 5/8, the PDL II, Moonraker 4 beam. But the Moonraker 6 used both 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 inch ID Hubs, so be advised there not all the same ID.



    Ok I have the machinist working the Hubs. This machinist makes small parts for RC Cars, and does a darn good job. So these type of hubs are a down hill effort for him and his CNC machines.



    I have tested my custom set of Hubs for the 2 inch ID Boom. Trying to break them didn't happen when they where significantly over tightened. A big difference in a cast Hub as compared to a Billet Hub. And as the quality increase is what your after, so does the price raise.



    I will test the new CNC machined Moonraker Hubs first. Then let you know.



    Jay in the Mojave



    www.a1antennas.com <img src=http://users.joplin.com/dutch64804/posticon44.gif ALT=":44">


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  5. catsknr

    catsknr Member

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    Hello all, I have an old Sigma 5/8 base antenna that has a broken hub. I also have a moonraker 4 that the hubs will interchange with but if I use one from there I will still need one to replace it with, and also the hubs are notorious for breaking anyway so I really dont want to try to mess with what I all ready have. Any ideas as to where I can get a couple of hubs?


    [​IMG]

    Here Kitty, kitty, kitty!</p>
     
  6. Jay in the Mojave

    Jay in the Mojave Active Member

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    Hello Catsknr:



    My machinist will be cutting the hubs this weekend or so he says.



    I don't push the guy to get prototype parts done. But after they are made and I test them, then he can give a solid production date.



    Jay in the Mojave <img src=http://users.joplin.com/dutch64804/posticon44.gif ALT=":44">


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