2510 AM deadkey problems?

[ozarkjeep]

well, It seems like I have gotten the intermittent display fixed thanks to alot o advice here...



now IM playing around with it tonight, and I noticed the AM deadkey with variable power goes fro nothing to almost 2 watts.



a couple of weeks ago it went from nothing to about 10 watts deadkey. ( same meter, same antenna, same freq)



the peak output on either am or SSB is about 28 watts, the same as it was before.



I did adjust the vr101 while I had the cover off, to make the S meter more "normal" it was registering EVERYTHING about 9 s units.



could that in some way change the AM deadkey?



Ive read on here about the DK drpping off, and the insulator needing to be between the final and heatsink, this radio has a tiny white disc between the final and chassis, is that the insulator?


</p>

 

[ozarkjeep]

well, It seems like I have gotten the intermittent display fixed thanks to alot o advice here...



now IM playing around with it tonight, and I noticed the AM deadkey with variable power goes fro nothing to almost 2 watts.



a couple of weeks ago it went from nothing to about 10 watts deadkey. ( same meter, same antenna, same freq)



the peak output on either am or SSB is about 28 watts, the same as it was before.



I did adjust the vr101 while I had the cover off, to make the S meter more "normal" it was registering EVERYTHING about 9 s units.



could that in some way change the AM deadkey?



Ive read on here about the DK drpping off, and the insulator needing to be between the final and heatsink, this radio has a tiny white disc between the final and chassis, is that the insulator?


</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

I think the Tiny White Disk you are speaking of is the mounting screw Insulator/spacer for the Bias Diode.

The Insulator I was speaking of is usually (but not always) a thin Mica or Ceramic (paper thin) insulator that goes between the Heat sink and the back of the final. If you look at the Driver(2sc2166) it has one, it should be covered(thin coat) with Thermal grease.. You should add one to between the Final and the heat sink.



Your changing Power control may be a damaged Variable Power(SWR) control. you may want to check that also..



Roger





.


</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

I think the Tiny White Disk you are speaking of is the mounting screw Insulator/spacer for the Bias Diode.

The Insulator I was speaking of is usually (but not always) a thin Mica or Ceramic (paper thin) insulator that goes between the Heat sink and the back of the final. If you look at the Driver(2sc2166) it has one, it should be covered(thin coat) with Thermal grease.. You should add one to between the Final and the heat sink.



Your changing Power control may be a damaged Variable Power(SWR) control. you may want to check that also..



Roger





.


</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Well, that depends on the Adjustments..

Some people turn down the Max AM watts to get more Audio drive (SWING- I hate that term)

Normal AM output for an unmodified 2510/Lincoln should be 10W AM [ 25"10" = 25w SSB 10w AM }



You would have to ask the person that installed the Variable power mod , what they set the AM output at..



Roger




</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Well, that depends on the Adjustments..

Some people turn down the Max AM watts to get more Audio drive (SWING- I hate that term)

Normal AM output for an unmodified 2510/Lincoln should be 10W AM [ 25"10" = 25w SSB 10w AM }



You would have to ask the person that installed the Variable power mod , what they set the AM output at..



Roger




</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Great!



I am working on an updated Variable power mod, I hope to be testing it out in the next week.. I will post the results on my site.



(better,easier)



Roger




</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Great!



I am working on an updated Variable power mod, I hope to be testing it out in the next week.. I will post the results on my site.



(better,easier)



Roger




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