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Discussion in 'Ham Equipment' started by Peter Walker, Mar 13, 2011.
You can start by looking the following found right here on this forum...
Best SWR / Power Meter / Cable for Mobile Applications / Install Questions
SWR meter - any recommendations?
Now, after you get a ton of recommendations - jump over to eHam.net Reviews and enter (in the Search Reviews box) the model number and see what other are saying about the particular model.
An alternative to an analyzer is a Noise Bridge. Think of a Noise Bridge as an "old fashioned" antenna analyzer. They take a little bit of learning to understand how to use, but once you know how you can get a lot of the same info that an analyzer will tell you. You can find them pretty cheap on ebay:
EXCELLENT PALOMAR WIDE RANGE ANTENNA NOISE BRIDGE - eBay (item 380322656211 end time Mar-14-11 20:01:30 PDT)
I assumed he was talking about a SWR/PWR meter based on his "$100" prefer'd limit.
its going to show your radio what it wants to see
and the rest is going up in heat
so the probelm still exists
I have one in the shack, One of the most used tools in the shack.
Fan dipoles are great, or multi-band dipoles.
I have built one that covered 15 meters through 160 meters. the analyzer was a BIG plus when building multi-band antennas with one feed point.
Not knocking the auctions sites but? Some of the junk on the auctions sites has been pretty well used and may not function properly.
An antenna analyzer is something that needs to function properly so that when you do finally key in to the antenna you know it is correct match.
An analyzer is one of the pieces of test equipment that is worth the $$ to get a good one. One that does HF and VHF is a plus, never know what band you may want to experiment on next.
HF/VHF Antenna/SWR/RF Analyzer w/ LCD, Counter & Meters
why not buy it new
Ok so it shows your radio what it want's to see, it is the same as any other matching device for a antenna. Nothing going up in heat all the power gets radiated.
Those antenna analyzers are certainly handy little thingys! Of course, you have to know what they are telling you to do any correcting, but that's not all that difficult to learn. The hardest part about that learning is getting rid of some misconceptions about what you're doing.
It's also a fairly good idea to have a new one rather than a 'used' one, unless you are sure about it's prior use, being dropped, 'screw-drivered' a little, whatever. The likelihood of it being correctly calibrated is just better. (Unless you find a REALLY good deal, right?)