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Decided to go to battery need advice.

1

123kid

Active Member
Mar 6, 2012
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I decided to install my 2950 in the mobile with the p5000.I know my radio does about 45 watts am 35 to 40 ssb.I have the new dx3 model.I plan on buying 10 gauge wire cutting the wire to the 2950 short and crimping the 10 gauge to it using a crimp tool from home depot comes with connectors etc.The radio wire carries the fuse i dont want to deal with soldering anything just want to make it as easy as possible.
 

Soldering helps a lot.
I have a Weller soldering gun I've had since the Eighties that has different temp tips. The largest is 450 watts. Good for Pl-259's
 
?

I got some 14 gauge wire laying around is that good enough?I never heard of a low average power radio roasting the truck....i thought one fuse was enough.i could see if i was running a amp or something but a basic install?
 
You have energized wire from your battery going thru your firewall to your radio. If that wire should get pinched, severed, or chafed somehow, your going to see sparks, smoke, fire and nasty smells. If your fused at the battery and something like that happens you'll be protected as the fuse will hopefully blow before something nasty happens.

Just sit and think about it for a few.
 
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m42duster said:
You have energized wire from your battery going thru your firewall to your radio. If that wire should get pinched, severed, or chafed somehow, your going to see sparks, smoke, fire and nasty smells. If your fused at the battery and something like that happens you'll be protected as the fuse will hopefully blow before something nasty happens.

Just sit and think about it for a few.
Click to expand...

Electron flow goes from a negative to positive so if your positive wire were to suddenly ground between the radio and the battery,you would have a short circuit which means more amps flowing through that wire than it was designed for.
 
The idea is to use more than what's needed, the 'extra' is a safety margin. As far as a low power radio 'burning/roasting' a vehicle, that isn't what does the 'roasting', the power line and what it is near does that. That fuse at the battery end of a power line is a very good idea. It should only 'pop' when that power line draws a very large current as during a short. Having dealt with a number of vehicle fires over the years I think not having that fuse at the battery end is really a dumb idea. And as far as I'm concerned that power line ought to be as large as possible for where it has to be routed. I can't think of a single time when I've run such a line in my cars/trucks that I didn't add something 'extra' to it later. Wasn't a high current thingy, but still added it. Lots easier than running a new line. Or putting out a fire...
- 'Doc
 
Number one rule.... Protect the cable....

That is the electrician coming out of me there :)

Always make sure that the protection device never exceeds the current carrying capacity of the cable. Our wiring rules state that the fuse rating should be no greater than 80% of the current carrying capacity (that is for low voltage application) I would assume that it would be the same for extra low voltage (12v)
 
I've ran on several vehicle fires caused by an incorrect install. Don't recall any being radio related. Most were kiddies installing mega amp car stereos. A few were people installing extra running lights and such. Last one I remember, was a fairly intelligent dude that installed a remote starter in his new pickup. It worked for a few days then his car went poof.

Ever notice how HF and VHF mobiles have the fuses at the end of the power lead? It's meant to hook directly to the battery. I usually bring heavy gauge wire into the cab terminating to a fused distribution block. The supply wire is also fused at the battery.

I can buy radios all day long, but not a new car.
 
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Yea! Don't wanna cook them wires. That's why I got heavy gauge wiring. 150 amp fuse to 1 gauge stranded wire to 1 farad cap to 4 position fuse/voltmeter/amperage box(stereo system)to 4 gauge stranded wire to short section of Galaxy power wire w/fuse,plug.
 
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run

im going to go from the stock rci 16awg wire cut at 2 feet with stepdown connectors to 12 awg to the battery spliced to the terminals and tightened.I will add a fuse at a later time when i can get my cousin the solder king involved.
 

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