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Discussion in 'General CB Services Discussion' started by broncoman529, Feb 10, 2007.
RIGHT HERE! That amp was made under the model numbers, Eagle 400, Eagle 500, Eagle 515 (CW Transmitter) and Eagle 525.
The amplifier is designed for 4 watts input and when properly driven and tuned you could see as much as 900 watts PEP.
More info here!
Ok, Here is the situation now. Here is pictures of the inside of this Kenrich Eagle 525. If you look on the "Load" roller inductor there is a missing electrical component. there is a wire on each side of the roller inductor but nothing in the middle. Could you please tell me what component and value belongs there inbetween the two wires? The guy finally remebered why it has not been hooked up in 8 years. From what he said that component was between the size of a nickle and a quarter, He took it out because it was no good and never replaced it. now the part is lost and he has no idea what it was or what value belongs there. Any idea what kind of trauma may have caused that part to fail? Could it just have been weak and let go? I need to know what it is so it can be replaced for testing before I even think about buying it. What is a fair price do you think I should pay for this unit?
Thanks all for the help,
Just from the looks of the amplifier, I'm not too sure I'd offer very much at all. It appears to be sort of amateurishly bult/rebuilt/repaired at some point. All of the parts are 'old', which isn't bad particularly, but be prepared for repairs. Best advice would be that you'd offer the 'minimum' -after- it's been made usable. Don't hold your breath...
The diagram shows a 120 pf (gotta be HV part, not some 600 volt mica jobbie) capacitor to ground in parallel with the load variable. Also at that point, you also have a 10 pf cap going over to metering circuit, a 10 pf cap going to the RF indicator (#3 neon lamp) and, a 22 micro-henry choke to ground.
Set the load variable to full mesh and tune the amp for max DK; look at the Tune variable, it should be somewhere near half meshed. Now, adjust the load variable for max output if, the capacitor is fully closed then you need that external 120 pf part installed.
The tubes are 12 pin 20LF6s, the final tubes are strung across the AC power line to light the filaments. Have somebody with a tube checker go thru the tubes, they check just like a 6LF6 only with a 20 volt filament.
Does that mean a "Ham" did it?
The Kenrich Eagle series was a very popular and well built mono-band amplifier. There were thousands of those amps constructed in the late 70's and in the 80's.
Seemingly, the amp was recently re-tubed and the power supply was reworked so, there is no reason to fear catastrophic failure. What you are seeing and commenting upon is the shorted turns in the Pi-Network; this is no reason to trash is amp. He just needs someone with a Grid Dip Meter to fine tune that coil (I advised him on the tune-up procedure for the amp, from there, he can straighten out the tank coil.
Buy the amp at .50 cents per watt max if you can see it work, $125.00 if you have to have it repaired (the tubes are worth about 50 bucks each).
'Amateurishly' doesn't necessarily mean 'ham'. It does refer to the way the thing is wired, it is done sort of 'amateurishly', doesn't look very 'professionally' done. From a discription of it's history, it 'sounds' like it's been 'done'/'re-done' sort of haphazardly.
All things considered, it's probably not a bad deal if it's cheap enough. Just don't think there's all that much to recommend it though.
What voltage do you recommend? It should be a 120 pf, ? volt capacitor? Say like 2 kilovolts? There was something there for sure and I do not have the amplifier to test yet otherwise I would test it like you said. What exact value component should it be replaced with?
Thanks so much for all your help, It is greatly appreciated
As a former owner of one of these amplifiers and, having worked on scores of them I don't think you can go wrong if the price suits your taste.
After (and if) you get ahold of it, I will help you through any problems that you might have if it takes a little repair work to make it run; I'm sure I can talk you through them.
it is a 2 driving 5 20LF6's just like the 500 and 515, but its built a bit differently.
the driver tubes are on the right, with an empty tube socket space on the PC board.
the final tubes are on the left, and the fan is to the left of them.
power supply and preamp in the back like the others.
i have one of these and have never seen, nor heard of another.
also, do the 26LX6's work as a drop in replacement for the 20LF6's if you cut the right pin off?
different tube sites say its a sub, but the filiment voltage is different so i wonder.
I cannot say that I have seen that one; post some pics if you can.
The filaments of the 20LF6's are strung across the AC (117 vac) power line so each tube is seeing about 23 volts on the filaments.
The 26LX6 tubes can be used as a sub for the 20LF6 as long as you either cut pin 7 off or, be sure that nothing is wired to pin 7 on the tube socket (some people use empty pins as tie-points) bottoms. The 26LX6's will work when strung across the 117 vac line; the filaments will be running at 10% (apprx) less volts, this may lengthen their lives.
i will try to get some pics up. it looks very similar to the others.
woodgrain sticker cabinet and all.
mine is kinda trashed.
got it for 20.00 because someone burnt up some traces on the PC board with the final tubes on it.
caps on the voltage doubler board were replaced with the wrong value, and im sure that is what caused this.
with the price of these tubes nowadays i was thinking of converting it to use the EL509's that you can still buy for 20.00 apiece.
i guess i would just need a filament transformer and whatever else.
anyone ever done this?
pics coming soon.
i will try to take some of the inside soon.
hope these work.