KLV1000 blowing its fuse??

[gunsmoke241]

what could be causing this???

 

[DXoutlaw22]

Does it blow instantly when you turn it on or what ?
I used to run aKLV 1000P and when I drove it hard it would pop fuses.I mounted regular fuse holders in the back of the cabinet and ran fuses with a little higher amp rating and had no more problems.The KLV uses tiny wimpy fuses.

 

[gunsmoke241]

DXoutlaw22


I sent you a pm .....

 

[buckwhite]

shorted cap could be a possibility

 

[nomadradio]

The driver on the five-tube version wants to fail, more often than not. This will blow the high-voltage fuse ONLY when you key the mike. Immediately. But not until you key.

Remove the driver tube, and try keying it. If the HV fuse holds without popping, it's probably time to convert it to the "high drive" version with only one stage of four tubes.

Never have this problem with the four-tube version.

Gotta shoot some pics of the next one we do that for, and post it. Have to change the two coils between the driver stage and the finals.

So far, this has fixed the problem every time.

And if a five-tube KLV-1000 works smoothly, that's great. Just never figured out how to stablilize a KLV five-tuber that does this "Pops soon as you key it" trick.

73

 

[Beetle]

Try installing the fuse with reverse polarity.

That way, it won't blow - it'll suck! :roll: :roll:

 

[paws264]

Try installing the fuse with reverse polarity.

That way, it won't blow - it'll suck! :roll: :roll:

Beetle, my thoughtful friend, your gonna have these boys trying to use "Zee-nee-yar Dye-odes" as fuses! Stop being mean, Mensa doesn't like show-offs!

Gunsmoke never came back and gave us any details as to when and which of the fuses are blowing.

I had a customer whose' KLV 5 tuber would blow the main fuse (16 amp) the moment you keyed it up but, not the fuse (4 amp) in the high voltage section.

It ended up being one of the final tubes failed internally and was drawing too much current (I disconnected all plate caps and keyed it down and the fuse did not blow).

I reattached the plate caps to the tubes, one at a time and keyed the amp until...."pss-zap" the fuse blew!. I unconnected the offending tube and continued to test the other tubes. The other 4 tubes were OK and the amp only blew the fuse when the "bad" tube was connected to the high voltage circuit.

The EL-519 (6DG6) tube has fat pins so it would not fit into my tube checker however, when I installed the new tube, the amp took off and flew, no fuses blown.

Hey Beetle, those tiny fuses "suck" no matter what the "polarity" so I also install "normal" size fuse holders with 20 amps for the main fuse F1 and 5 amp for the B+ circuit, F2.


"2smooth"

.

 

[High Miler]

I've been able to go with Svetlana EL-509's... Keep the Deadkey at 2 Watts swinging NO MORE than 5 Watts RMS... Or 15 Watts PEP .... And run the Amplifier Hot and heavy for 8 months now with no trouble...

The Amp still yields 650 watts RMS/ 1300 watts PEP and is very clean and great sounding when TUNED TO AUDIO... NOT by the way the book tells you!!!

When installing New tubes... Let them cook for 48 hours on standby, Run them on Low power for a week and than Medium for a couple days... Than run High power as needed...

Took a couple sets of tubes and some learning curves with this Amp... Follow the prescribed method above and you will get plenty of enjoyment on your radio... And with your KLV...

Here's a link for the tubes:

Svetlana EL-509 Heavy Duty Premium Tubes

I swear by them...

 

[Drifter]

Are all 5 tubes (heaters) in the KLV1000 amp supposed to glow when the amp is in standby mode?

 

[paws264]

.

Yes.

.

 

[Drifter]

.

Yes.

.

Well I've got a problem.... One of my tube is not glowing. What could be causing this??? But wait the amp is swinging to 1100 watts on high setting on my Workman Meter. What gives I just put in new tubes in..... Is there anything I can check before I send it to a Pro.

 

[nomadradio]

Yep. Look closely at the solder connections under the socket with the "dark" tube in it. Odds are you'll see a tiny crack in the solder around one or more of that socket's pins.

If that's all, resoldering should fix the problem.

73

 

[Drifter]

Yep. Look closely at the solder connections under the socket with the "dark" tube in it. Odds are you'll see a tiny crack in the solder around one or more of that socket's pins.

If that's all, resoldering should fix the problem.

73

Thanks I will check it out and post if I can fix it.

 

[Drifter]

.

Yes.

.

Well I've got a problem.... One of my tube is not glowing. What could be causing this??? But wait the amp is swinging to 1100 watts on high setting on my Workman Meter. What gives I just put in new tubes in..... Is there anything I can check before I send it to a Pro.

Found the problem.... one female receptacle in tube holder was spread too wide. Closed it up and the tube came to life. I am seeing some good numbers from these russian tubes. Thanks for the help.

 

[Drifter]

.

Yes.

.

Well I've got a problem.... One of my tube is not glowing. What could be causing this??? But wait the amp is swinging to 1100 watts on high setting on my Workman Meter. What gives I just put in new tubes in..... Is there anything I can check before I send it to a Pro.

Found the problem.... one female receptacle in tube holder was spread too wide. Closed it up and the tube came to life. I am seeing some good numbers from these russian tubes. Thanks for the help.