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Setting up a Sirio Gain Master, have questions!

Think in 'worst case' scenarios. Those items would work fine for tensioning a screen door, but not for a 30 - 35 foot mast subject to the usual variations in weather. So, no, they won't work for very long. Maybe fine on a calm day. Listen for loud, ugly sounds on a windy day. Sorry 'bout that.
- 'Doc

I agree with 'Doc, forget the hardware. However, I do use stainless (s/s) Eye and S hooks to attach the fiber lines to the metal brackets at both ends. This gives a smooth round surface without sharp edges that can cut. You probably don't want to make your guy lines real taut...as you would with wire or cable. In fact a little slack in the lines may be easier on the antenna, but don't let them get too loose. Get the mast straight, that's more important.

Another tip is to not let the bottom of these push up poles touch the ground, they rust badly in a short period of time in most soils. Ground the antenna with short ground straps or clamp the mast directly to a long ground rod. Just keep it above ground and attach with a couple of strong s/s muffler clamps. The bottom of the mast really needs to be secure. I set my P/Ur's up on a patio stone or something similar to keep it out of the dirt.

Just be careful, and watch for those power lines nearby.
 
I agree with 'Doc, forget the hardware. However, I do use stainless (s/s) Eye and S hooks to attach the fiber lines to the metal brackets at both ends. This gives a smooth round surface without sharp edges that can cut.

I'm sorry, I don't understand, can you please go into more detail on which Eye and S hooks, and metal brackets at both ends you are referring to? Perhaps you can supply links and pictures?

Another tip is to not let the bottom of these push up poles touch the ground, they rust badly in a short period of time in most soils. Ground the antenna with short ground straps or clamp the mast directly to a long ground rod. Just keep it above ground and attach with a couple of strong s/s muffler clamps. The bottom of the mast really needs to be secure. I set my P/Ur's up on a patio stone or something similar to keep it out of the dirt.

I will be mounting the antenna on the peak of my roof with this mount:

Roof Base Mount for Telescopic Antenna Mast

I am considering getting some 1/2" braided grounding strap and connector. Here is a link:

Ground Strap, Ground Braid

My question about this is: Do I need to do anything to keep this off the roof as it goes down to the grounding rod? If it just lays on the roof, is this ok and safe? Should I keep it separated from the coax? Would taping them together be trouble?


Just be careful, and watch for those power lines nearby.

No overhead lines, all underground.
 
Mast bracket for guys and S & eye screw (640x480).jpg

Only use stainless hardware, and you may need to squeze the S hooks together a bit closer on install, so they cannot fall out.

Big Bob, have you figured out how you'll extend the push-up pole with the antenna mounted on it? Be very careful if you plan to extend the P/U first and then try to raise it up. I would practice on the ground first...trying to get that thing up and mounted.

I don't have much confidence in that roof bracket unless it is really well galvanized and thick walled metal. The bolts should use extra heavy hardware, if you plan on it holding up for long. The structure under the roof that the bracket connects to should be thick and heavy also, to carry the large lag screws or bolts you will need and I would say they should be at least 1/2" bolts.

The problem with such mounts may be the possible twisting in the wind. If it is not heavily built while carrying a heavy load, which a 40'-50' foot P/U can present, then it can be dangerous. I don't recommend attaching any antenna to your home. Such attachments can be destructive, cause leaks which can be costly, and it is dangerous work on a roof.

It also would be best to mount the bracket closer to the edge of the building to help reduce running a ground wire and coax directly on and across the roof. The wire directly laying on the roof material can be very dangerous in case of lightning. If you expose a lot of coax or safety ground wire close to the antenna it can also produce excessive RF for the system, due to radiation from the antenna.

Don't spend the money for braid in this case. Use as heavy gauge wire as possible for the ground wire service to the ground rod.

Good luck and be careful. Plan and practice your approach to raising this antenna and you should do fine.
 
Now I am even more confused, Doc and you both said "Those items would work fine for tensioning a screen door, but not for a 30 - 35 foot mast" and to forget that hardware I was proposing, but it appears to me that the Eye Screws I am proposing is larger than what you have in the photo you supplied. I don't see a turn buckle for adjusting guy wire tension, do you not use them? I was going to attach the guy rope to the mast guy wire assemblies, never thought about using s hooks. What are the advantages of the of using the s hooks? Seems like the bend attaching the rope will be about the same.
 
Try reading the thread again Big Bob, I think the answers are there. No I dont use turn-buckles with polyfiber type guy lines. If you use wire or cable, turn-buckles are a good idea and you probably need the wire to be a bit more tight.
 
Ok, maybe you can answer these questions:

What size Eye screws? Length and diameter?
What size S hooks?
Do you use S hooks at both ends of the guy rope or just at the mast?

I will be mounting the GM on the ridge of the roof in the center of my home, so tell me how you would ground the mast. The coax and ground do run in the same direction off the roof.
 
Minimum 1/4" x 3" - 6" I have not been able to find ss, but it's best.
Minimum 1/8" x 1.5" ss and a bit larger maybe.
Depends if the point of attachment is smooth or not. I always use S hooks on the mast/guy brackets types shown in the image. Some of the better made brackets similar to what I show in the picture have a smooth edge for the guy line to ride against, but my brackets were just punched out leaving a sharp edge. If I use an eye bolt/screw there is no need for the hook.
 
If he's using guy rope not guy wire and the guy rings aren't the type with a rolled edge but just flat with a rather sharp edge, it might be smart to begin each guy line with a couple inches of guy wire to a ceramic egg insulator, then to the dacron/kevlar for a smooth transition.
 
Ok guys, I think I got it. Thank you very much for your help! As soon as my foot has healed up from surgery December 30th, I will tackle this job. Getting all the parts and hardware together so everything will be ready to go.
 
Ok guys, I think I got it. Thank you very much for your help! As soon as my foot has healed up from surgery December 30th, I will tackle this job. Getting all the parts and hardware together so everything will be ready to go.

I think you meant January 30?
 
I think you meant January 30?

Nope, already had the surgery on December 30th. LOL Been hobbling around for the past 20 days. A guy doesn't realize how important a foot is till you can't use it at all, no weight at all on it. Been a pain! It is going to be another 3 weeks before I can put any weight on it. Going back to work tomorrow, 1/2 days thru the end of the week.
So having said that, it probably will not be till March before I get the GM up. Hopefully not any longer
 
Nope, already had the surgery on December 30th. LOL Been hobbling around for the past 20 days. A guy doesn't realize how important a foot is till you can't use it at all, no weight at all on it. Been a pain! It is going to be another 3 weeks before I can put any weight on it. Going back to work tomorrow, 1/2 days thru the end of the week.
So having said that, it probably will not be till March before I get the GM up. Hopefully not any longer

OK, gotcha. So have you received the SGM yet?
 

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