Soldering up PL-239's to Coax: The Best Way?

[Shockwave]

Word of advice for people doing this the first time. Buy the silver body PL-259. As has already been said, solder sticks to this type the easiest. Many new comers will melt the coax before they can get solder to stick to the nickel body. The trick to soldering this correctly is all about how hot your iron is. I'd rather have 200 watts and only need to hold it on for 5 seconds then 40 watts for 60 seconds. If the coax starts to get too hot before you can solder all of the connections, just cool the connector with a damp rag.

I've also found it easier to have a small pencil iron that can fit inside the holes on the connector body. If the tip will fit and reach the braid without touching the body, you can easily get sufficient solder to connect the braid by filling the hole like this. As soon as the solder touches the body, remove the pencil and hit it with some real heat to flow it out. This way you know you bonded to the braid and didn't just fill the hole.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

For a real challenge sometime try using type N connectors instead of PL-259's. You don't solder the shield but they will either hone your skills or make you switch to crimp-on's instead. I was just cleaning up and found a bunch of really nice Amphenol silver type N's with Teflon insulation and gold centre pin contacts. Now I just need to decide where to use them.

 

[mackmobile43]

The shells being nickel plated shouldn't be a problem unless you try to solder to the shell for some reason. If the connector body is the same bright shiny metal as the shell, be very careful.

I file through the nickel to the yummy brass inside.

 

[W5LZ]

Nothing new here. Just FWIW.

Pre-tinning is almost always a good idea, especially if you are using a reducer with those PL-259s. Certainly doesn't need to be super 'thick', just tinned which gives a drop of hot solder a place to 'stick'.
If I have a choice, a fast heat and a fast cooling is easier for me when using a torch rather than a soldering iron/gun. A torch is also much easier to use in the 'outdoors' than an iron/gun, less heat wastage. I've had lots of practice, so it works more often than not for me. It takes practice!
I've also found that the old style Amphenol using 'Bakelite' insulation, rather than Teflon, is an almost 'no-brainer'. I haven't managed to burn one up yet, and that's with multiple reuses, not just new ones. Any electrical difference between those 'oldies' and the newer types? Not at HF, and not much at all at VHF/UHF. Any benefit to the 'gold' plated things? Not really, although it won't hurt either. At frequencies where that gold plating would be beneficial, I wouldn't use a PL-259 anyway, whoopee.
- 'Doc

 

[scout943]

I also use a torch, but like you said it do take practice.

 

[Beetle]

I file through the nickel to the yummy brass inside.

Yes, you can do that, too. Main problem there is that the inner diameter of the connector is just about inaccessible, so all you have is a little ring of brass around the four holes. I find the real silver-plated connectors in quantity and buy them that way. They tarnish over time, but the tarnish is just as good a conductor as the clean silver.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I also use a torch, but like you said it do take practice.

The best thing to do is use the solder iron attachment on that torch. It makes a decent soldering tool and that way and you won't burn anything.

Hmmm..... I just looked on the web to post a picture of the solder iron attachment and can't find any. I have two of them that I have had for years. They fit over the regular torch burner head and the flame heats a solid chunk of copper shaped like a big chisel tip solder iron. It has holes in the side to allow the flame to escape out the sides and not towards your work. Maybe thay don't make them anymore.

 

[Beetle]

I just did the same search and came up with the same results as CK. I have one or two in my old equipment area in the garage. They work great, but the convenience factor is solidly on the side of electric irons. I could still do a PL-259 outdoors, I'm sure. Just how much I'd be shivering might be a factor, though!

 

[mackmobile43]

Yes, you can do that, too. Main problem there is that the inner diameter of the connector is just about inaccessible, so all you have is a little ring of brass around the four holes. I find the real silver-plated connectors in quantity and buy them that way. They tarnish over time, but the tarnish is just as good a conductor as the clean silver.

A file layed on it's edge fits nicely and can access the entire ring where the four little holes reside and solder will flow uninhibited all the way around.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

Hey Beetle, that convenience factor goes right out the window when dragging an extension cord behind you while climbing up the tower to replace a connector at the top. :blink:

 

[mackmobile43]

Hey Beetle, that convenience factor goes right out the window when dragging an extension cord behind you while climbing up the tower to replace a connector at the top. :blink:

That's where on of those nifty little propane soldering torches might be handy but not owning one or having any experience with it I would be sorely disappointed and might consider throwing myself from the tower if it failed to meet my expectations. propably not.

 

[W5LZ]

I don't have any attachments for a torch, it's just a plain old propane torch. You do have to pay attention or stuff burns!
I don't 'do' tower work but do on the ground. Dragging an extension cord is no fun onthe ground either. Especially if the cord isn't that long. Using a soldering iron, a smaller one, means the weather usually cools things down too far.
The only thing I'd recommend not using 'Mapp' gas. That stuff really does get hot.
I wouldn't say for everyone to use a torch for soldering connectors, but it's worked for me.
- 'Doc

 

[packrat]

Try pl-259s.
I use a big old weller dual wattage gun. No sweat. In and out in a couple of seconds, indoors or out. Tip reaches the holes with no problems. Won't set the house on fire if I drop it.

 

[mackmobile43]

Try pl-259s.
I use a big old weller dual wattage gun. No sweat. In and out in a couple of seconds, indoors or out. Tip reaches the holes with no problems. Won't set the house on fire if I drop it.

I have a dual wattage craftsman, 150/250 but I prefer my 100 watt American Beauty just for the thermal mass thingy.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I generally use my old Weller D550 gun. Not the little D500 they make today but the BIG OLD one that has 240/325 watts and a BIG tip. That makes short work of connectors. I haven't seen too many oldie D550 with that power rating.They are usually the smaller 200/240 watt guns with a smaller tip. I also use an 80 watt stained glass iron on the odd occasion.