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Who works on Texas Star amps?

I have a feeling they know they're insulated as he bought from a retail seller sounds like. If that's so, then TS will rightfully claim they have no control once it leaves their facility. Likewise the reseller which is more likely the responsible party as THEY likely had something to do with selling the return or botched amp on, will claim well I know nothing, better call the manufacturer.
Both parties will do nothing, Eldos out the money, and a POS product was delivered. Sucks Eldo. Sorry brother.
And I'm with Shockwav. There is no way that work was done by anyone remotely familiar with a soldering iron. Some complete hack has been in. That isnt a new amp. It can't be.
 
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Well, John was the Galaxy guy, and I always got a call back or an email of when I could talk to him. If Texas Star sold or is under new management it might be what the issue is. I don't know as rumors fly about ownership.
John has helped me several times in the past on anything I had asked including staying on the phone and guiding me through a repair or troubleshooting issue. Which is one reason I have several Galaxy radios.
At one time I had an issue with a fleabay radio that came to me totally pooched, and full of sand, and Galaxy offered to send me a new radio even though it was not their responsibility. I declined the offer, as I said it was not their problem, I was just looking for suggestions on repairs, and I think they had stopped repairs other than warranty at that time.
I can't imagine something as bad as the AMP you received was even allowed to leave the facility they are made in. Looks like they handed a soldering iron to a child and let them have at it.
 
To answer your questions, I did call, more than once and left a voice mail stating my issue and that I would email. The response came Wednesday via email but it was from Texas star amp repair and Mike Hawkins was who it was from. He stated that if it were him he would ran his iron across that mess and that it had to have been tested before it went out.

@Smokinone
Yes in the past John at galaxy has been great with radios but it seems the amp side of things is nowhere near the same.

It's frustrating as hell but I will fix it, I have to now..
 
I dunno, it seems like a gray area, but I think the guy who took my money would be the responsible party as it was really DOA. We all know they are in need of a "conversion" to get them to work the way we want, but if it's botched to the point of the way you received it, that could not be done to achieve the expected outcome.
The seller would be my focus, and if paid by other than cash I would dispute the charges as the way it looked it certainly couldn't be used as a "CW Transmitter".

It's great that you have the knowledge to fix the problem, but so many of us aren't that talented.
 
I may ask for some help from you gentlemen. I'm going to repair traces, clean up solder and flux, probably replace that melted up relay and electrolytic that's all toasted on one side. The value of the electrolytic is no longer visible but I'll test it to make sure it's good.

By chance, can anyone tell me what the value of that electrolytic it? In case I need to replace it.
 
I would dispute the charges as the way it looked it certainly couldn't be used as a "CW Transmitter".
Or used at all in any way.
Heck you don't even know if the transistors are still working by the looks of heated base resistors from your first pic posted. You shouldn't have to fix it unless they say keep it and refund your money.
Smokinone has the right suggestion. Let the seller( who for some reason has not been divulged yet), fight it out with galaxy. Seller probably stocks un-used TS boxes, you don't know.
When you show your credit card company/bank the pictures they will get you your money back and as a bonus, you might not have to return it.
Its a sad situation and I feel for ya man. There's no reason to settle for junk.

The cap is usually a 1000uf 25v

 
I may ask for some help from you gentlemen. I'm going to repair traces, clean up solder and flux, probably replace that melted up relay and electrolytic that's all toasted on one side. The value of the electrolytic is no longer visible but I'll test it to make sure it's good.

By chance, can anyone tell me what the value of that electrolytic it? In case I need to replace it.
This just turns me the wrong way round... Accepting getting screwed for that kind of money. But I respect the can do attitude.
 
Last edited:
It's the sideband delay capacitor, 1000uf. We learned to add a 4.7 or 10uf directly across the keying transistor, neg to emitter, positive to the foil pad for the transistor's collector. Makes the keying transistor last a lot longer any time a radio with too much negative modulation drives it.

Got a pic of that here somewhere, maybe?

73
 
I may ask for some help from you gentlemen. I'm going to repair traces, clean up solder and flux, probably replace that melted up relay and electrolytic that's all toasted on one side. The value of the electrolytic is no longer visible but I'll test it to make sure it's good.

By chance, can anyone tell me what the value of that electrolytic it? In case I need to replace it

I may ask for some help from you gentlemen. I'm going to repair traces, clean up solder and flux, probably replace that melted up relay and electrolytic that's all toasted on one side. The value of the electrolytic is no longer visible but I'll test it to make sure it's good.

By chance, can anyone tell me what the value of that electrolytic it? In case I need to replace it.
How'zit are you still looking for information for the DX500 Let me know I got all the Texas Star Amplifier Part's Layout's, Part's List's and PC View's. Just give me your email address and I'll send it to you. Braddah Vic
 
How'zit are you still looking for information for the DX500 Let me know I got all the Texas Star Amplifier Part's Layout's, Part's List's and PC View's. Just give me your email address and I'll send it to you. Braddah Vic
Thank you!
Maybe you could share those files to the forum information section here, that's valuable info and could really be helpful to us all in the future.

I appreciate you help sir. It's been completely disassembled and I've been working on it in the evenings when I have time. I've repaired a trace, removed, cleaned and reflowed a majority of the components as well as beefed up some things. The circuit boards are night and day different from where we started. Rg316 coax arrived yesterday so that'll be put in there too.

Once I tore it apart I felt committed to the repair and I'm taking the bad experience to learn the circuitry and the build of the beast which is something I do enjoy. Doing this kind of work is somewhat of a mental decompression from stress sort of like how some people enjoy doing puzzles for fun.

Anyhow, I woke up yesterday and to my surprise I had a response from galaxy. Mike said he hadn't seen the picture of the broken trace and that there's no way they ever powered up that amp after assembly and that he would send me a replacement front ppcb.That tells me they aren't a very refined machine over there. The last email I sent had all the photos and some of me expressing my thoughts on the workmanship and quality of the box so I thought for sure I'd get no reply so to get one a week later is surprising.

Soooooo..... I hope to have it all put back together this weekend and I'll share photos as well as let you all know how it works. I haven't done the power wire upgrade but if all works well after initial start up and I decide to keep it then that'll be next. If there's any issues I'll address them and just unload it after that...

More to come
 
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Thank you!
Maybe you could share those files to the forum information section here, that's valuable info and could really be helpful to us all in the future.

I appreciate you help sir. It's been completely disassembled and I've been working on it in the evenings when I have time. I've repaired a trace, removed, cleaned and reflowed a majority of the components as well as beefed up some things. The circuit boards are night and day different from where we started. Rg316 coax arrived yesterday so that'll be put in there too.

Once I tore it apart I felt committed to the repair and I'm taking the bad experience to learn the circuitry and the build of the beast which is something I do enjoy. Doing this kind of work is somewhat of a mental decompression from stress sort of like how some people enjoy doing puzzles for fun.

Anyhow, I woke up yesterday and to my surprise I had a response from galaxy. Mike said he hadn't seen the picture of the broken trace and that there's no way they ever powered up that amp after assembly and that he would send me a replacement front ppcb.That tells me they aren't a very refined machine over there. The last email I sent had all the photos and some of me expressing my thoughts on the workmanship and quality of the box so I thought for sure I'd get no reply so to get one a week later is surprising.

Soooooo..... I hope to have it all put back together this weekend and I'll share photos as well as let you all know how it works. I haven't done the power wire upgrade but if all works well after initial start up and I decide to keep it then that'll be next. If there's any issues I'll address them and just unload it after that...

More to come

Thank you!
Maybe you could share those files to the forum information section here, that's valuable info and could really be helpful to us all in the future.

I appreciate you help sir. It's been completely disassembled and I've been working on it in the evenings when I have time. I've repaired a trace, removed, cleaned and reflowed a majority of the components as well as beefed up some things. The circuit boards are night and day different from where we started. Rg316 coax arrived yesterday so that'll be put in there too.

Once I tore it apart I felt committed to the repair and I'm taking the bad experience to learn the circuitry and the build of the beast which is something I do enjoy. Doing this kind of work is somewhat of a mental decompression from stress sort of like how some people enjoy doing puzzles for fun.

Anyhow, I woke up yesterday and to my surprise I had a response from galaxy. Mike said he hadn't seen the picture of the broken trace and that there's no way they ever powered up that amp after assembly and that he would send me a replacement front ppcb.That tells me they aren't a very refined machine over there. The last email I sent had all the photos and some of me expressing my thoughts on the workmanship and quality of the box so I thought for sure I'd get no reply so to get one a week later is surprising.

Soooooo..... I hope to have it all put back together this weekend and I'll share photos as well as let you all know how it works. I haven't done the power wire upgrade but if all works well after initial start up and I decide to keep it then that'll be next. If there's any issues I'll address them and just unload it after that...

More to come
Texas Star DX 400 - DX 500CB-Tricks.com
DX 400 and DX 500 PARTS LIST

Capacitors


Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
C1
15pFCeramic Disc
C2
0.022uF to .1uFCeramic Disc
C3
1000pFCeramic Disc
C4
1000 uF 16vElectrolytic
C5
150pFCeramic Disc
C6
330pFCeramic Disc
C7
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C9
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C20
120pF (DX400)Silver Mica
330pF (DX500)Silver Mica
C21
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C22
0.0015uF (DX400)Polypropylene
0.0012uF (DX500)Polypropylene
C23
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C24
330pFSilver Mica
C25
330pFSilver Mica
C26
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C27
1200pF (DX400)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
1000pF (DX500)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
C28
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C29
0.01uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C30
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C31
0.0015uF (DX400)Polypropylene
0.0012uF (DX500)Polypropylene
C32
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C33
330pFSilver Mica
C34
330pFSilver Mica
C35
0.068uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C36
1200pF (DX400)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
1000pF (DX500)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
C37
0.068 uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C38
0.01uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C39
0.068 uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C40
33uF 25vElectrolytic
C42
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C43
10uF 25vElectrolytic
C44
0.01uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C45
91pFSilver Mica
Resistors

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
R1
470 ohm 1/4WCarbon
R2
10 ohm 2W (DX400)Metal Oxide
R4
120 ohm 2W (DX400)Metal Oxide
200 ohm 2W (DX500)Metal Oxide
R5
75 ohm 4WMetal Oxide
R6
6 ohm 4WMetal Oxide
R8
68KCarbon
R9
470Carbon
R14
100 ohm 2WMetal Oxide
R16
1.8 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R17
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R18
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R19
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R20
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R21
25 ohm 5WWire Wound
R23
1.8 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R24
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R25
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R26
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R27
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R28
25 ohm 5WWire Wound
R29
100 ohm 2WMetal Oxide
R30
15K ohm 1/4W (DX400)Carbon
30K ohm 1/4W (DX500)Carbon
R31
1K ohm 1/4WCarbon
R32
27K ohm 1/4WCarbon
Diodes

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
D1
1N4001
D2
1N4148
D3
MR750
D4
1N4148
Toroids

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
L3
Toroid CombinerBifiliar (5 Turns #22) on 30MHz Ferrite Toroid Core ½" O.D., ¼" I.D. 1/8" x 1/8" Thick.
L4
Toroid CombinerBifiliar (5 Turns #22) on 30MHz Ferrite Toroid Core ½" O.D., ¼" I.D. 1/8" x 1/8" Thick.
Transistors

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
Q1
2N2907A
Q2
2N4125
Q4 - Q7
2SC2290(DX400)
2SC2879(DX500)
Jacks

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
J1
SO239RADIO
J2
SO239ANT
J3
1/8 PhoneKey
Fuses

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
F1
Fuse Holder with 35A Fuse
F2
Fuse Holder with 35A Fuse
Lamps

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
I1 - I4
18v 40ma Lamp
I5
#2682 14v 80ma Lamp


Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
S1-S4
4 Position Switch Bank
Button Bezel
Lens (POWER)
Lens (REC AMP)
Lens (SELECT A WATT)
Lens (DELAY)


Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
T1
Stackpole 5 Turns(DX400)
Stackpole 2 Turns(DX500)
T2
Stackpole 4 Turns
T3
Stackpole 5 Turns(DX400)
Stackpole 2 Turns(DX500)
T4
Stackpole 4 Turns
FB1-FB8
Ferrite Bead13/64" Dia. x 7/16 long



 
Texas Star DX 400 - DX 500CB-Tricks.com
DX 400 and DX 500 PARTS LIST

Capacitors


Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
C1
15pFCeramic Disc
C2
0.022uF to .1uFCeramic Disc
C3
1000pFCeramic Disc
C4
1000 uF 16vElectrolytic
C5
150pFCeramic Disc
C6
330pFCeramic Disc
C7
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C9
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C20
120pF (DX400)Silver Mica
330pF (DX500)Silver Mica
C21
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C22
0.0015uF (DX400)Polypropylene
0.0012uF (DX500)Polypropylene
C23
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C24
330pFSilver Mica
C25
330pFSilver Mica
C26
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C27
1200pF (DX400)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
1000pF (DX500)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
C28
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C29
0.01uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C30
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C31
0.0015uF (DX400)Polypropylene
0.0012uF (DX500)Polypropylene
C32
0.068uF to .2uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C33
330pFSilver Mica
C34
330pFSilver Mica
C35
0.068uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C36
1200pF (DX400)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
1000pF (DX500)Stacked Mica (SEMO)
C37
0.068 uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc or Monolithic
C38
0.01uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C39
0.068 uF TO .1uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C40
33uF 25vElectrolytic
C42
0.068 uF TO .1uFGlass, Ceramic Disc or Monolithic
C43
10uF 25vElectrolytic
C44
0.01uFCeramic Disc Monolithic
C45
91pFSilver Mica

Resistors

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
R1
470 ohm 1/4WCarbon
R2
10 ohm 2W (DX400)Metal Oxide
R4
120 ohm 2W (DX400)Metal Oxide
200 ohm 2W (DX500)Metal Oxide
R5
75 ohm 4WMetal Oxide
R6
6 ohm 4WMetal Oxide
R8
68KCarbon
R9
470Carbon
R14
100 ohm 2WMetal Oxide
R16
1.8 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R17
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R18
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R19
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R20
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R21
25 ohm 5WWire Wound
R23
1.8 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R24
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R25
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R26
10 ohm 1/2WCarbon
R27
39 ohm 3WMetal Oxide
R28
25 ohm 5WWire Wound
R29
100 ohm 2WMetal Oxide
R30
15K ohm 1/4W (DX400)Carbon
30K ohm 1/4W (DX500)Carbon
R31
1K ohm 1/4WCarbon
R32
27K ohm 1/4WCarbon

Diodes

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
D1
1N4001
D2
1N4148
D3
MR750
D4
1N4148

Toroids

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
L3
Toroid CombinerBifiliar (5 Turns #22) on 30MHz Ferrite Toroid Core ½" O.D., ¼" I.D. 1/8" x 1/8" Thick.
L4
Toroid CombinerBifiliar (5 Turns #22) on 30MHz Ferrite Toroid Core ½" O.D., ¼" I.D. 1/8" x 1/8" Thick.

Transistors

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
Q1
2N2907A
Q2
2N4125
Q4 - Q7
2SC2290(DX400)
2SC2879(DX500)

Jacks

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
J1
SO239RADIO
J2
SO239ANT
J3
1/8 PhoneKey

Fuses

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
F1
Fuse Holder with 35A Fuse
F2
Fuse Holder with 35A Fuse

Lamps

Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
I1 - I4
18v 40ma Lamp
I5
#2682 14v 80ma Lamp



Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
S1-S4
4 Position Switch Bank
Button Bezel
Lens (POWER)
Lens (REC AMP)
Lens (SELECT A WATT)
Lens (DELAY)



Ref. No.
ValueNOTES:
T1
Stackpole 5 Turns(DX400)
Stackpole 2 Turns(DX500)
T2
Stackpole 4 Turns
T3
Stackpole 5 Turns(DX400)
Stackpole 2 Turns(DX500)
T4
Stackpole 4 Turns
FB1-FB8
Ferrite Bead13/64" Dia. x 7/16 long






That's great, is there a diagram with the parts locations?
 

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