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Do you think I think I got took....

I actually went to this shop to only buy some RG-8/213 to rewire my mobile...never expected to walk out with an amp!

Another question I have is that since this amp lacks a remote, can I parallel three or four ice cube relays together (assuming 30A per cube, 4 would provide around 120As worth of switching), and simply turn switch the power on/off to the amp? Will that cause any issues, such as spikes/surges?

No need for relays, just run your pos/neg power leads.

All a remote switch does is to add 12 volts to the keying terminals of the relay inside the amp to switch the amp from receive to transmit so just find the pos/neg legs of the relay and attach wires there and add a (stereo) phono jack in the back of the cabinet and then wire a toggle switch to a stereo input plug making sure to put the positive lead on the tip of the plug and the negative lead to the center lead of the plug and jack.

The guy you bought it from should be able to install this for you if he's worth his weight in salt.
 
I would say those numbers are alittle high. At one time there were four locals here running a Texas Star 667. On AM we all got 500-550 watts, you might get 600 on SSB if your lucky.

The 667 is a cranky beast that tends to run hot. A dead key of 1-1.75 watts should work well. Keep the PEP watts under 20. Adding a fan is also a great idea.

One thing that will help feed that amp better is if you disconnect that goofy and restrictive dual 30 amp fuse thing they have. You can run fine multistrand #8 wire right off the board with a 70 amp blade fuse on the red side. Use maybe 18 inches of this wire and end it into an Anderson style quick-disconnect. This way you can remove the amp quick and easy.
 
" when i had one just like yours it did right at a 1000 watts but it also had some work done to it and yes get a fan the 667 is very finiky and gets warm quick

and i drove mine with a little tiny cobra 25 lol and dead key was 2 watts and would swing to 7 watts"


Sorry but there is no way possible that 7 watts PEP will drive a 667 to 1000 watts. Not gonna happen.
 
One thing that will help feed that amp better is if you disconnect that goofy and restrictive dual 30 amp fuse thing they have. You can run fine multistrand #8 wire right off the board with a 70 amp blade fuse on the red side. Use maybe 18 inches of this wire and end it into an Anderson style quick-disconnect. This way you can remove the amp quick and easy.



I should be able to have the shop I got it from do that...and install the remote leads.

I would also think that pushing 1000 watts would be a tad over-driven??
 
well 9c1driver it did, no joke it evan melted the tip on a firestick antenna thats when i found out about the wilson antennas like i said it had alot of work done to it and it did right at a 1000 watts NO JOKE,NO LIE!!!
 
The 667 is a cranky beast that tends to run hot. A dead key of 1-1.75 watts should work well. Keep the PEP watts under 20. Adding a fan is also a great idea.

One thing that will help feed that amp better is if you disconnect that goofy and restrictive dual 30 amp fuse thing they have. You can run fine multistrand #8 wire right off the board with a 70 amp blade fuse on the red side. Use maybe 18 inches of this wire and end it into an Anderson style quick-disconnect. This way you can remove the amp quick and easy.

I agree with all of the above, the first thing to go is the fuses...they will fail anyway. I use a 60 Amp Audio type fuse and fuse holder mounted just outside of the Amp.
Keep the Key and Swing down low on the 667, and it will live a long life...do not go over 14 volts...it will die a horror able death if you try to volt it.
Keep it cool.
For 90 bucks......you stole it, now baby it and let it live a long life.
Turbo Mod 667, or the Two Thirds Kilowatt Models were from Left coast radio if I remember right...But I am getting old...

73
Jeff
 
I actually went to this shop to only buy some RG-8/213 to rewire my mobile...never expected to walk out with an amp!

Another question I have is that since this amp lacks a remote, can I parallel three or four ice cube relays together (assuming 30A per cube, 4 would provide around 120As worth of switching), and simply turn switch the power on/off to the amp? Will that cause any issues, such as spikes/surges?

And if you're dead set on the power relay setup I found some nice one's here. relays continuous duty 12 volt & 24 volt DC power relays,starter relays
 
This modified 667 you had that did 1kw, Were there extra transistors added? Because if not and it still used the 1 2290 driving 4 2879s, There is no way on earth you saw even close to that ampount of power on your fundamental freq. the 2879 was designed to run linear up to 100 watts PEP In most cases that number is underrated and the device will stay stable and linear upto 125 watts. Thats why most people run them around the 500 watt mark. for the most part, anything over this amount, the extra power is no longer being applied to the fundamental freq and is now being applied to the 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th order harmonics. The reason your meter reads the power is because it can not distinguish the diff between 27 and 54 mhz and so on. So it is basically reading the accumulated power between your harmonics. There are meters available that will only sample power on one freq and disregard the harmonics...but expect to pay.

The reason the 667 is such a splatter box is people unkowingly over drive the driver and that drivers output is loaded with harmonics and now the 4 finals have no choice but to amplify what they see. So now you have a dirty in REAL dirty out type situation.

In closing, the TS 667 should have never been built! They should have stuck with the strait 4 TS 500 as it can be driven to full CLEAN potential by 99% of all the radio on the market and of the past.
 
I couldnt hsvre said it better myself Rich!!! Its trrue and this is exactly what I was getting at people have a habit of driving the p!$$ out of these forgetting that the first transistor a 2SC2290 is a driver feeding the 4 2SC2879 transistors and they only duplicate what is fed into them. So dirty in means dirty out just louder and more widespread

(Linear)

In electronics, the linear operating region of a transistor is where the collector-emitter current is related to the base current by a simple scale factor, enabling the transistor to be used as an amplifier that preserves the fidelity of analog signals. Linear is similarly used to describe regions of any function, mathematical or physical, that follow a straight line with arbitrary slope.
Such linear electronic devices include linear filter, linear regulator, linear amplifier.
 
I couldnt hsvre said it better myself Rich!!! Its trrue and this is exactly what I was getting at people have a habit of driving the p!$$ out of these forgetting that the first transistor a 2SC2290 is a driver feeding the 4 2SC2879 transistors and they only duplicate what is fed into them. So dirty in means dirty out just louder and more widespread

(Linear)

In electronics, the linear operating region of a transistor is where the collector-emitter current is related to the base current by a simple scale factor, enabling the transistor to be used as an amplifier that preserves the fidelity of analog signals. Linear is similarly used to describe regions of any function, mathematical or physical, that follow a straight line with arbitrary slope.
Such linear electronic devices include linear filter, linear regulator, linear amplifier.
If only FreeCell where around to hear this? I mean debunk that.lol

I'm sure he'd have a skewed way of saying exactly what you've said and try to convince you that you're totally wrong.:D
 
Thanks for all that...

I'm hoping one of my Grants are tuned well enough (read low enough) to drive this thing...as I said, the one in the truck now only does 3 watts swinging to 7 watts on my TR-1000 Dosy, the other one (set up for a TX 350HDV) does 1.25 and swings to around 3 watts (both have been aligned and tuned). I'd really hate to run the 80 miles to Carlilse to have them tweaked just for this. I do have the DX959 also, and it has a variable power...so for a temporary thing.

As clean as the internals are, I can't say it appears to have seen much use. The board is clean, there is no evidence of heat, and all the pills appear to be matched and most likely original...even the meter works! Not sure that knob is original?? I would almost guess it was used as a base considering the condition.
 
I run my texas star dx 250hdv with 4 watts and it dont even get warm


I run my DX350HDV with 1.25 watts (as noted previously) and it gets hot in a few minutes...

It will be a few weeks before I get around to installing it...other priorities right now, and the current setup works pretty good.
 
So this is/isn't a Texas Star?? And I guess further along those lines, is/isn't this AB-ish biased???

Yes it is a Texas Star, the 667 Turbo Mod/Two Thirds Kilowatt Model is no longer made...it is basically the same with a different face plate.
There used to be a guy here on the West Coast ( left coast lol ) that had them for sale...but you have to be a real dinosaur like me to remember that.
And for general Info, with almost any solid state amp a fan of some sort is a good idea if it don`t already have one, heat is the enemy of electronics. The heat sink is doing its job, that is to dissipate heat, the faster you help remove it, the better.
And a note on the V model...try to limit the amount of use of the variable while keyed, I feel it is best to adjust the radio drive power with the Amp on Max to get the output you want.
The 667 Is a beast, with that built in driver....it takes very little drive to push the output section into saturation.
You got a hell of a deal, and if you treat that amp carefully it can last a long time....just understand the limits. Do not over drive it, do not try to volt it...It is good advice for any Amp to not run them "Balls to the Wall"

enjoy (y)

73
Jeff
 

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