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It's not an urban legend. The Boomer is much like most amplifiers meant for the CB market. It lacks filtering to keep stray RF power from leaking out the red and black power leads. Even if only 1 percent of the transmit power leaks out the red wire, that's like hooking the antenna socket of a barefoot radio to feed staight into your wiring harness.

The computer gadgets in most vehicles don't contain much filtering to keep RF from leaking into them from the wiring harness.

Best way to avoid this problem is to run a separate hot and ground wire from the battery to the amplifier. It's important to place a fuse or breaker AT the point where you tap off the battery juice. The fuse on the amplifier is not sufficient by itself. The fuse placed at the battery end of your 'direct' power lead serves to protect the wire, if it gets grounded, and to prevent it from setting the vehicle on fire if the insulation is cut or the wire gets pinched by grounded metal.

The battery tends to serve as a filter. The separate ground wire direct to the battery prevents the truck's computer devices from 'sharing' the amplifier's ground circuit.

It's the cheapest and simplest way around this problem.

73

<blockquote data-quote="nomadradio" data-source="post: 39388" data-attributes="member: 22">It&#039;s not an urban legend. The Boomer is much like most amplifiers meant for the CB market. It lacks filtering to keep stray RF power from leaking out the red and black power leads. Even if only 1 percent of the transmit power leaks out the red wire, that&#039;s like hooking the antenna socket of a barefoot radio to feed staight into your wiring harness. The computer gadgets in most vehicles don&#039;t contain much filtering to keep RF from leaking into them from the wiring harness. Best way to avoid this problem is to run a separate hot and ground wire from the battery to the amplifier. It&#039;s important to place a fuse or breaker AT the point where you tap off the battery juice. The fuse on the amplifier is not sufficient by itself. The fuse placed at the battery end of your &#039;direct&#039; power lead serves to protect the wire, if it gets grounded, and to prevent it from setting the vehicle on fire if the insulation is cut or the wire gets pinched by grounded metal. The battery tends to serve as a filter. The separate ground wire direct to the battery prevents the truck&#039;s computer devices from &#039;sharing&#039; the amplifier&#039;s ground circuit. It&#039;s the cheapest and simplest way around this problem. 73</blockquote>

[QUOTE="nomadradio, post: 39388, member: 22"] It's not an urban legend. The Boomer is much like most amplifiers meant for the CB market. It lacks filtering to keep stray RF power from leaking out the red and black power leads. Even if only 1 percent of the transmit power leaks out the red wire, that's like hooking the antenna socket of a barefoot radio to feed staight into your wiring harness. The computer gadgets in most vehicles don't contain much filtering to keep RF from leaking into them from the wiring harness. Best way to avoid this problem is to run a separate hot and ground wire from the battery to the amplifier. It's important to place a fuse or breaker AT the point where you tap off the battery juice. The fuse on the amplifier is not sufficient by itself. The fuse placed at the [i][b]battery[/b][/i] end of your 'direct' power lead serves to protect the wire, if it gets grounded, and to prevent it from setting the vehicle on fire if the insulation is cut or the wire gets pinched by grounded metal. The battery tends to serve as a filter. The separate ground wire direct to the battery prevents the truck's computer devices from 'sharing' the amplifier's ground circuit. It's the cheapest and simplest way around this problem. 73 [/QUOTE]

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