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Need Part Number on Phantom 12 Tube keying Diode

B

BrewMaster

Member
Mar 12, 2008
5
0
11
Hi Everyone.

I have a 12 tube Phanton 12 6LQ6 tubes and one 6AQ5 keying tube.

It will not Key up, the 6AQ5 tube is fine. However, the multiplier diodes that go between the RF input the the 6AQ5 to trigger the 6AQ5 to kick in the rely is bad. There's four of them, two of the four are good, and then one is open and one is shorted.

I need to replace them but I do not know the part number. There are no numbers on the diodes just three color bands.

Anyone have an idea what the replacement diode would be for these?

Thanks,
David
 

I believe they are diodes...they are clear glass or plastic just like the diodes you'd see in a crystal radio. I don't remember the colors, I will have to go look again. There's four of them, two of them check out okay as diodes and two of them check out bad with one being completly open and the other being completely shorted. All four diodes are identical. I will take a picture of them and post it somewhere and provide a link to the picture.

Thanks and 73!
Dave
 
I have a D&A Scorpion that even though uses a transistor for the keying circuit instead of a 6aq5, it looks to have the same diodes, well two of them instead of four of them, but anyways I looked up the schematic for the scorpion and it shows those diodes being 1N34 which would be a 65 Volt Germanium Diode.

So I'm thinking that I could maybe replace the two bad diodes with 1N34's.
 
Last edited:
Phantom Update

Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to update everyone on this phantom repair. I ordered the 1N34 diodes and they came, I cipped out the old ones that were bad, and checked them again out of circuit and got the same reading, one shorted and the other one open.

I soldered in the two new diodes and now it works great.(y)

Thanks for everyone's help!

73!
BrewMaster
 
Phantom 500

Glad to see you got your Phantom fixed Brewmaster. I just had the same problem with mine too (same 12 tube box), but mine didn't have any diodes or resistors between the keying tube and relay. The only resistor mine had was the ground for the keying tube. Long story short when that resistor got hot my box wouldn't key up 75% of the time. It was only a 1.4 ohm resistor so I just took it out and put a straight ground in it's place. Now I can key my box with less than 1 watt!!! Thanks to your post at least I knew where to start looking so thanks for that. I drive it very hard and this thing will get down now. I put a RFX75 in the back of my galaxy 99 and got it "the galaxy" to key 1-5 watts and swing 70 watts on a RMS scale. This has my phantom jumping up and down. I did have to put a new Z-14 choke in but now the Phantom 500 is swinging to about 750 RMS watts (800 on a good day)!!! I also was told I could run all 12 tubes together instead of 4 driving 8 and it would REALLY throw down, does anyone have any advise about running all 12 tubes together and driving it with 200-300 watts? Someone else told me the 4 tube group was just the low power side and the 8 tube group was the high side, is this true or just someone blowin hot air? Thanks in advance for any wisdom I might recieve. "Twister" in the great lakes
 
Good to read on some of these Phantoms. I have a 10 tube I am getting ready to convert to the russian el509's, heavy glass. I put 5 in a friends KLV1000 and that things does 1k on SSB all day long. Mine is a tube keying circuit. I have all new chokes, have to replace some caps, and then rewire the sockets. in a few weeks maybe.:D
 

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