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Texas Star DX400 improvements???

couple more questions,
what cap could be replaced for variable output tuning?
is this a good idea or not?

how good is the quality of the coax cables they use in this amp?
any improvement needed here?
LC
 
The reason for fusing each pair of transistors is in case one set or one transistor shorts,the fuse will blow and prevent the others from being grounded as well.

REALLY bad move.

Take out one transistor, you lose a bank. Think what that does to a combiner and the resistor around it.

Instead of the R dissipating 1/4 the power, it's now called on to diss half the power.

Other amps I've seen this done in ALSO end up burning up the combiners or splitters farther down / up stream in the amp because of imbalances.

If you're STUCK on doing this, then the proper way is to add a 'steering diode' after the fuse bank, and run a 4 input AND gate. One of the fuses blows, the AND gate output goes low, and disconnects the keying transistor.

2SC2879s DON'T SHORT OUT!!!! They blow wide open, usually on the emitter section, which would be the circuit to ground.

I'd leave it the way it is, run a single AGU or ATU style fuse (depending on the constant current draw of the amp), and be done with it. Get rid of the little glass fuse holders on it (my 500/667 both have 2, my sweet sixteen has 4, ALL are old enough to be serial #'d and 'turbo mod' editions). Run 8 or 6 ga out the back, and you are good to go.

As others have pointed out, you can improve the bias design, but all mine run stock, and have for almost 2 decades.

--Toll_Free
 
thanks for the reply dudmuck,

if this is just a DC blocking cap, i guess a ceramic disc cap is as good as any.

second, the fuses in my amp are each 25 amp fuses, for a total of 50 amps.
is this really enough? or should i fuse it with a higher amperage fuse when i get rid of the old fuse holders?

Each 2879, properly running, will pull 20A of PEAK current. About .6 times that will give you the necessary fuse value for high power AM use. For high power, highly compressed SSB, it's about the same. All about that duty cycle.

FYI, my 667 Turbo Mod, 1X4 takes 80A worth of fuse, or it blows them. Into a dummy load.

My sweet sixteen pulls 150A easily. A 165A leece neville into a BIG cap bank runs it. BARELY.

Secondly, if you want to keep a 20A fuse holder for EACH BANK, then that's OK, as well, but see my other replay about the relay keying issue / combiners / splitters / workaround. I just use a single, but when I ran doubles, I also ran a 6A10 diode from each FUSE HOLDER OUTPUT to ground.

WHY trust the wiring from the fuseholder to the amplifier, then the amplifiers traces itself to dump fault current when you can do it at the fuseholder?

BTW, those crappy glass auto fuse holders (AGC style) have a VERY small spring inside. It starts lighting up at about 15A continuous for a half hour. Would you trust pulling 40A peak across that?

--Toll_Free
 
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