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I have to say thank you also for sticking with me, I like to work on radios just hate asking for help.. this repair is probably a little over my head but I’m Sure going to give it my all

18.9k ohms to ground from pad

I have very high resistance from the grounding pads to actual DC ground?

I have both vrs removed and have continuity through both biases Diods on the finals driver has no continuity? I know I should pull the diodes to test but kinda thought that was weird? I did replaced the diodes in the beginning of this mess,

Ok so pulled both resistors, they tested fine pulled both vr’s think it should be 100 ohm looks like I have up119.2 and down3.29 Boths vrs are fine so that’s looks good... vrs are still out of radio...

Do you think the short could be caused by a disk capacitor? Before I start pulling and testing values? Maybe pull both vr’s and see if voltage rises at the back of the resistor?

Before leaving for dinner I grabbed a meter and tested r243 r244 have 8 volts on the front 151mv and 22.8mv, also r245 has 8 volts also .867 coming out

I got 2 of these radios both dead, but this one is close, so far I have replaced q54 and tested q55 and got almost a 2 watt carrier 6 pep watts, replaced both finals C2312 (Tested good) with c1969 both good transistors and all biasing diodes including d93 but still nothing also tryed vr10...

Well since the post I have replaced q37 A1869, now I have a little side band audio but nothing on AM. Meter is at 9s units with no sound no audio on AM and very faint on sideband and no sound out of the speaker?

Story of the radio is had a PA speaker outside supposedly the speaker got hit by lightning the radio turns on fine everything looks OK no transmit no receive. Q37 gets very warm and has 13.8 on all 3 legs. Was going to see if any one had any ideas? Pa jack has been removed? Was going to test for...

I don’t even have jumpers hooked up the amp! It gets hot as soon as it gets power 12volts

Feels like only one pill is hot?? Amp doesn’t have to be on just have hot power running to it and it’s gettig hot...

I hear a relay clicking yes. when putting my finger around both relays it’s hard to tell which one is clicking.. the click sounds good but I can’t feel anything?? I would think as good as the click sounds I should feel something?

I had it in my mobile now have it on my base and tested on a dummy load this morning, amp seems to be keyed up at all time? Just power it on it starts to get warm

Cobra blue face 350 with 2 2879s seems like the relay is sticking after it warms up it stays keyed up, untill power is turned off on amp. Don’t see anything like a bad cap of anything burnt could it really be the relay? I got the amp used so it never work and don’t know the history

Thanks for the replay kopicle!!! And not being a smart ass.... I was just curious about the ring... thought I would ask to see if anyone has tried this??

how would I go about applying a ring modulator to my cobra 2000? Guessing tp7 and tp8 have something to do with it.. what other things are needed? Radio is already direct injected just curious what the gains are? Thanks a lot any input would be great

Never mind forgot the blocking cap because I removed the switch for stock mic to direct injection... thanks for all the help

Another update got the radio working, I can only get audio using the stock mic??? When I inject through c174 + side I lose all rf power??? Everything is working rádio is putting out good numbers and sounds good with a stock mic... sorry if I’m boring but you guys have been a big help

One other thing if I just want to jumper the switch for AM, is it just hook orange and red wire together? Radio is injected so ssb isnt a opinion anyways....