Search results

What he said, i have one.

I would like to change all those z5u 1kv disc caps under the tube sockets also, is there a newer style replacement for those? I see some nos stuff, but it is just as old as whats in there.

Nice! Thank you for posting that! As a side note, today I received my ceramic el509 sockets, and 10 el509 Russian tubes. One tube is broke:mad:and on of the sockets had the pins smashed down. But, i can steal pins from the other sockets to make it work. Though now I have to wait another 2...

I will have to look into that, that would be a nice upgrade to what is already there.

ok, I am looking on newark now to get a regulator for it, the diode is a bad idea then, I guess running a string of diodes like the old tube amps is a bad idea to huh? I see the LM338, it is an adjustable regulator. the LM38xx you suggested are only 12vdc out, I figured if I do it to 24 then...

Or, how about I toss a 24v or 27vdc 5 watt zener diode after the 1 ohm resistor, this will give me a lower voltage. The preamp circuit uses a zener diode to bring it down to 12 vdc +/-. The 330ohm 2 watt resistor is in the wrong place on the schematic, but it is there. I could add a 24-28...

How many amps do you think the bias supply circuit uses? I have a plan, I built a little regulated power supply that'll take 40vdc (or a/c) in, and be adjustable for 0-40 out, I can turn it down to 24vdc to feed the bias so all is like stock, but it is only 1 amp. Would it draw more than one...

I guess i could leave the ammeter in ln series and talk on the amp to get the thing heated up, to be sure I am still getting 200mA on it, no matter what the voltage. Since I am this far into it, I wanna get it as good as possible. Voltage is gonna be relevent only when I get the idle bias...

Wel, I have the bias circuit powered by the 13.5 regulated supply. I used all new arctic silver for the transistors. I tried 3 different ways for the diode. The first is having D15 under the board, with a flat filed on it, and on the heatsink, and D16 on the left pill with a flat filed on it...

Ahh, that would be easier, lol, haven't thought of that.:oops:

I will check tr8 again, I have a transistor tester. to check it again. I figured since the standby switch is off, (while power switch is on) there is no voltage to tr8's base, so it won't conduct, but there is voltage to tr9s base through me injecting the voltage, the 13.5 vdc that is...

I replaced that cap too, and cleaned the relay, I will eventually find it I am sure. My time has been ate up trying to get this POS klv550 sounding good.

nope, I have checked that too, this thing has been put back to stock. It only had the clarifier unlocked when I got it. I hate that so I put it back to stock.

Sorry, I think I mistyped it. When I have a line coming from the front 13.5 volt port, it is always hot, therefor, the bias is always on doing it that way. When the power switch is on and the standby is off that is. As far as 179, I was looking at the specs, it says 110v in and 24v out for...

if it has the 1407's in it it is too much. Bob, for the life of me I can't figure out why it has 34 volts running to the 179. I redid the stuff with the diodes, one on the heatsink, another on the pill. and new arctic silver, yadda yadda. Put a new bridge rectifier in it. With the board...

Yes, this is a USA amp,lol. i have a thin mica insulator and thermal grease for 179, I have plenty of replacement diodes for D15 and 16, so there are long leads on them and I can file them flat them to position them, one under the board, then have it pass through to the top, and the other on...

Yeah, I have 34 volts there, 110-120VAC. I could run a high resistor to get it down to 30vDC after R28, I could also mount both of those diodes under the cb instead, not a big deal really to do that, I can file a small flat on them. I could even run D15 and 16 on top each pill. I also notice...

I think I spoke too soon. The bias voltage continues to rise as I am talking. I can't seem to get it right. What is the voltage from the power supply supposed to be? I am getting 34volts. right to R28 says a "1,0 ohm" resistor, so I assume that is 1 ohm. that don't work too well, lol I...

the 1uf cap worked well. I ended up going up a bit in resistance, not much. the orignal was about 3250 ohms, I went to like 3400 or something, brought me down to .63 in low and .60-.61 on high. now to get some audio reports. thank you for all the help again, this thread will help others I am...

copy that. so maybe i should go to am and try it and reread the meter, and add the cap and go from there.