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scored 10 off of ebay for $14 from a seller 6star claimed better RF than IRF520 so curiosity got the best of me the test bed radio is a taiwan cobra 29gtl so here are my findings so far: a homemade arrangement of EKL layout (470-1n4148 and 3.3k) and the first thing i noticed is low dead key...

the perfboard/adjustable dk is the only way i go about this on a transformer rig. it looks :::less worse::: on the scope i got than the standard r/c setup

the a and s kit have different crystal freqs.

yeah, if something comes across my bench with the r/c version i'll automatically change it for a darlington or undo it completely

yea, i prefer it adjustable, and every time ive seen the simple parallelled r/c the resistor heats up and the audio is just.....sloppy compared to the darlington based adjustable dk with the 100uf. i make the unit on perfboard and sometimes will pop a hole to mount the TIP120 right to the case...

TIP120/100uf.

got a beautiful 427 on the bench, recap, npc, went well, so i did shott diodes in d7-8 but now the meter doesn't move on RX everything else works mint now. any suggestions on where to look? i am having trouble finding a schematic

i haven't messed with the NPC mod yet but after long runs TXing, what i see on scope, and given that i'm driving 9530 mosfets, i have a nice 3<19W, slightly high fwd RMS wattage, nothing is off or raising alarms so i'll just leave well enough alone. I did change R104 to 18k, which is juuuussst...

i wouldn't try that for multiple reasons. 1. they're kinda dumb 2. if you don't know your way around a schematic, you are basically risking bricking your radio.

got a cosmetically nice 19xs and the stock mic for it. no idea why it's not modulating. eyeballing a schematic and kinda at a loss as to why. radio's gonna have a home in a local jeep

i normally get 25ish from an HG final. I modded/recapped a 21xlr which is now happily being used in a semi running the eastern seaboard, dimmer knob repurposed into the DK control, and it pushes 27w pep. limiter is intact but modded to have a bigger threshold. I'm curious what he used for a FET...

the tip41....its still a to-220 device. i have on hand an NTE270 which is a to-3. IF i were to un-volt the final, my instincts say a bigger package NPN upstream from the driver-final would be better no?

i have a 200mhz china scope. everything looks good there. the volted final takes a lot of heat from the regulator and everything runs cooler so im gonna stick with that, but i'll try the diff cap and resistor.

comparing off the washington/142gtl method i saw on another forum with my own notes: 1. Remove TR32 [ACTUALLY DONT DO THAT. TRY CHANGING R104 to 22K TO OPEN UP THE THRESHOLD CLEANLY] 2. jumper r123 3. Add a 10 uF 25 or higher volt electrolytic cap to the following spots: Attach the positive...

looking to drop the carrier down. for the amp. how is the best way to go about this? i see a couple of methods mainly in certain forums but unsure about which one is best

yeah, i never had one that was this restricted. usually can pull it back to about 2W and it screams

I wanna thank you again Andy. I just aquired yet another PC122 which was dead in the modj swing but what I am observing is a 5-6w PEP with the carrier at around 2-3w and it jumped up to 16 pep if i set the carrier pot at 8w which i know isn't something that can fly thermally speaking. much of...

that things gonna splatter wicked hard. no limiter and a class C amp

Also, in order to properly kick an amp, r134 is going to be the resistor I pull for the tap points for a tip120 NPC mod.