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Right. The Chinese knock off actually held up for 3 years before they gave up the ghost. Do you know if HGs will fit in the same hole as these? Carl said they need a regulated power supply if I use them. I also thought about using a variable voltage and reducing the 115 vac to a lower voltage...

Tested and found 3 with a diode fault,one with leg broken off. I likely broke it removing it.3 had HFE of 2. 1 was a 3 HFE. The other 2 tested 16&17 HFE. Think the diode shorts caused the 0 output? Now got to figure out what I want to replace them with.

Roger that. I found a video building a probe on YouTube. I built the one in the screen shot. It seemed to show RF on almost every thing. So I ordered a transistor tester also screen shot. I’m going to take all 10 out and test them to be 100% for sure. I don’t mind buying test equipment. I really...

Replaced all the caps on the input side. Only thing I didn’t replace is the combiner. But it seems to test ok.

Yes Sir.

I have tested and replaced everything I can think of except transistors. Is it possible some transistors are shorted and preventing drive to reach other transistors? And how can I test them?

I tried every thing up to the point of replacing the relay. So I ordered a new one and removed it. I realized the keying circuit was still in it. Like I said I use an external keying module. The original keying components was still there just disconnected from the ground pin of the relay. Could...

I forgot to follow up on this. Cleaning the selector switch totally eliminated all issues that remained. It’s even stable on SSB other than the normal temperature drift. Thanks for all y’all have done.

Sorry to go on&on with this thing. Did you get a chance to read my last post? And one other thing is it possible for the input splitter to go bad and send the drive wattage to ground? I would think it would send the reflect to the moon if that was the case. Thanks again y’all have been super...

Will unsoldering the 3 caps from ground and doing a quick key with low power input should show some output on the meter. Right? I did the low power input from the radio and no transistors created no heat. So like you say it has to be on the input side. I’m considering replacing the relay. And...

Roger that.

Wanted to verify the suspect caps. They are the ones circled red? It’s a 10 pill so there are 5 of them. The tuning capacitor checked out. And the radio test produced no heat on the transistors. Thanks again 73’3

Thanks shock wave. I’m working 12 hour shifts and drive 1 hour each way. So I’m having little time to work on it. I’ll post what I find. Your awesome.

With the output tuning capacitor still installed the outer and inner are ringing common. Do I need to unsolder one end and recheck?

Roger that. I sent him a email just waiting for him to respond. Other feed back is ok. I’ll take what I can get.

Finally got some time to remove the tuning capacitor to test the relay. Results, I have continuity with the relay pulled in. Tested from input coax all the way to the input transformers. Also tested from the output transformers to the antenna socket. Every thing on the relay checks out. What...

Thanks brother. I figured as much. Just hate the thoughts of removing the tuning capacitor. I’ll mark it with a sharpie before I remove it.

I’ll try to be as clear as I can. Radio on driver amp on and main amp off. I get 200 watts through the main amp. Turn on the main amp and key up the relay pulls in and 0 wats out of the main amp. The tuning capacitor is soldered directly to the relay. So jumping the pins on the relay is nearly...

My gut feeling was the contacts bad. I’ll check when I can. Thanks for everybody’s input.

That is correct. But when it’s on the relay kicks in and no wattage passes through. All the drive watts disappear when it’s on.‍♂️