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C103 tested good but replaced it anyways last night. I just lifted one leg of d60 and it did not change the way the light acted on the front. It is mostly lit up green but I can see the red light is partially on a little at the same time and comes on and off a little. Also now the frequency...

I do have crt and cheap digital scopes, how would one go about using it to find the problem you are describing?

I do have a scope and a real cheap transistor checker if that would help me. How can I use them to find the problem like you are mentioning?

Also the guy I'm helping who owns the radio had it on for 17 years straight without ever turning it off because he leaves it on downstairs so he can use it upstairs and is too old to go downstairs to turn it off and on. Don't ask me why he does that lol that is just what he told me. Im surprised...

Okay, I will try this this evening when I work on it and get back with what I find out after lifting d60. Last night I did have Q30 out and tried turning it on and the green light went out and was only red. That may be normal since it was out but just thought I'd mention it. Thanks for the help...

Got a chance to work on it tonight. Q30 and Q33 have been changed with transistors from another galaxy that had no switching issues. D71,72,73,59 have been replaced with 3 series 4148 diodes. d70 replaced, Q37 Q55 Q54 have been replaced with parts from rfparts or ica manufacturing or trucks cb...

Ohhh okay haha that would make complete sense I just assumed it was the same. If you were able to do that, that would be awesome then I could try taking a second look at it with the new schematic and maybe be less confused.

I also noticed q35 was burning up after I replaced factory D72 with 2 series 4148's so I listened to what one of you guys said and tried adding a 3rd diode in series and it stopped getting hot. So I guess for the rest of those diodes I replace I'm going to just start using 3 in series which got...

I've been studying that thread to understand the circuit better. I cant check voltages for rf and tx because it's stuck in tx or both. But the voltages on IC7 are: Pin 1: 4.95v Pin 8: 8.95v Pin 2: 4.95v Pin 7: fluctuates heavily from about 0.8 to 2 volts or so Pin 3: 4.95v Pin 6: 3.6v...

What if the bias board, the driver, and both finals are already removed and it still does this? I think I’ve even tried removing q54 regulator and changing it and it does not fix it.

I am trying to repair a galaxy dx2517 with the newer mosfet board. I originally start troubleshooting it because it was outputting almost no power and could not properly adjust bias voltage or current either way I tried. and at some point along the way, it started to switch into tx on its own...