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Browning Mark 3 SSB no transmit.

nomadradio

Analog Retentive
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Apr 3, 2005
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Louisville, KY
www.nomadradio.com
The Browning Golden Eagle Mark 3 SSB transmitter has frustrated any number of folks trying to get one back on the air. If someone has already twisted every tuning slug in the radio hoping to get lucky, you'll have an uphill climb ahead of you. Doing that just muddies the water. And if you have a frequency counter in line with a transmitter that reads around 21 MHz when you key it on AM, someone has already done the slug-tweaking ahead of you.

But we'll stick with one narrow circumstance. A transmitter that has been "hot wired" for AM mode only, bypassing the mode selector altogether.

Say what? That selector has a failure issue with the brown plastic insulation breaking down after 30 years or so. And for a radio that could be close to 50 years old, the risk factor is high. Replacing the selector is expensive if you do it yourself, and really expensive if you hire someone. And what would be the point? You'll never use it for sideband more than about once.

A radio that cuts out or dies *after* this has been done may very well have one or more worn-out crystals. We'll assume for the moment you checked tubes, cleaned out noisy tube sockets, and replaced the bad relay. Each of those can shut down this transmitter.

The Mark 3 has three crystal oscillators. All three must be running before you will see any output power. Here's where it gets a little odd. The channel crystal may be running, or not. But you're bound to have at least one or two channel crystals that are not worn out yet.

Worn out? Yep. A quartz crystal is a moving part. Doesn't move very far, but it moves really fast. And like any and all other moving parts it will wear out eventually. One of the three oscillators has 23 channel crystals on a selector. If you have a receiver that can tune in the 16 MHz channel crystals, use it to eavesdrop on the crystal that's selected. Click the channel selector around until you find a crystal that runs steadily and won't cut out. You did already clean the black schmoo from the channel selector's rotary contact, didn't you?

One of the three oscillators generates a carrier for the balanced modulator. There are three carrier crystals. One for each mode. One crystal is just above the "window" of frequencies that will squeeze through the crystal filter. This is the 5.648 MHz LSB carrier crystal. Another one is below the filter's pass band, 5.645 MHz. This one gets you the upper sideband. And one crystal is dead center of the passband so you'll have a carrier for AM mode at 5.6465 MHz.

This would create a problem if we simply mixed the frequency of this crystal with the channel crystal. The transmit frequency would be different on each mode. To keep the radio on the channel's center frequency we have a third oscillator with three crystals. It will mix with the 16 MHz channel crystal that's selected. When the carrier crystal's frequency moves up or down when changing modes, this set of crystals bumps the radio's frequency up or down the opposite amount. 5.050 MHz for USB, 5.047 MHz for LSB and 5.0485 MHz for AM.


The crystal oscillators in the transmitter are running *all* the time. A radio that was used for 5000 hours and was never keyed up once the whole time will still wear out the crystals for the mode and channel it was set to. Odds are that mode was AM. And a worn-out crystal for AM carrier and AM offset can be fixed by ordering replacements. Definitely the simplest approach.

But there's a cheaper way. You have two pairs of crystals in the radio that are not worn out yet. The USB pair and the LSB pair. For simplicity, this example uses the two USB crystals. Keeps the frequency arithmetic simpler.

First we bypass the crystal filter altogether. The radio has been hot wired for AM mode, so it's not really needed any longer. A bare wire leads from T2 into the filter's input pin. A gray shielded wire with the shield trimmed away has its center wire soldered to the filter's output pin. Remove each wire from the filter's pins. Add a short insulated wire to the shielded gray wire's center conductor so it will reach the pin on T2 that was unhooked from the crystal filter.

WrUBUH.jpg


Not the clearest possible pic, but should get the idea across.

There are six crystals behind the mode selector. The outer two have no trimmer cap, only a disc cap visible connected to them. The inner four crystals each have a trimmer cap alongside it. We'll be removing the 5.6465 crystal that is alongside the outer rail of the chassis. This crystal provides the AM carrier. The 5.6450 USB crystal gets removed from its trimmer cap hookup and gets soldered in its place. Be very gentle, the lead wires will easily snap right off this kind of crystal if you're too rough with it.

TjsxTk.jpg


The offset crystal for AM is marked 5.0485 MHz and it's located on a tie strip on the inboard side of the mode selector. It gets removed and the USB offset crystal gets unsoldered from its trimmer cap. Solder the 5.050 MHz cystal to the tie strip in place of the original AM crystal.

FxhqdD.jpg


Odds are that the two USB crystals have no mileage on them at all, and should not wear out for a long while.

Yes, there are lots of other things that can prevent a Mark 3 SSB transmitter from producing power, but this one just comes up more and more often every year that goes by. Probably a worthwhile preventive measure for a radio that has a lot of miles on it.

73
 

Mk3 ssb+am. Im searching for any post that reflects some help on a transmitter that screeches while in am and pins the needle. Ssb has not been tested yet. I pull the 6bq5 and the screeching stops. The 6bq5 works great in my other transmitter. Resistors check within tolerance. Caps All replaced (electrolytics). It did tx for a bit on am then the power out slowly dropped to nothing. Cant seem to find a post that might provide some insight. Thanks.
 
Have you tried turning down the mike gain to see if this stops the screech? If it doesn't, that's important. And if it does stop the screech, the cause is upstream from the mike gain control.

73
 
Thank you Sir! I will try that tomorrow. Much appreciated.

73s
 
Today I checked all 6 mode crystals to see if I had rf. Couldnt check actual frequency probably due to not enough rf output on these crystals. Freq counter doesnt see the rf. On AM I can see mod on the scope. Nothing on ssb. Notvenough tx power out to move my wattmeter but enough to see that I get 28mhz out on all channels with no variation. I got the squeal sorted out. Any other ideas? Thanks for your support. 73s
 
I get 28mhz out on all channels with no variation.
So, this is what we often see when coil slugs have been tweaked, one by one until they're all at random settings. The tweaker finally sees the wattmeter move a little and then gives up. The way the Mark 3 mixes three oscillators to get the channel frequency leaves open a lot of tuning slugs to tweak way off of the proper peak setting. When you see the same frequency on every channel, this means the signal you're getting is a harmonic from one of the two non-channel crystals or a harmonic of just those two crystals only mixed together. Does tell you that the 16 MHz channel-crystal oscillator is not part of what's coming out of the final stage.

My favorite tool when that transmitter type is in a coma is a receiver that can tune all the separate internal frequencies. Seeing that each tuning slug shows a peak on the receiver's S-meter one circuit at a time will confirm that slug's circuit is probably okay. A slug that won't show a peak points to a fault in that coil's circuit. It's a bonus if the receiver is calibrated so you can set crystal trimmer caps. And if one of those three oscillators is having trouble, you'll hear it in the monitor receiver. A coax jumper with the shell backed over the plug body gets you a half-inch long "sniffing" antenna to hold next to the circuit you want to hear. A steady tone with the receiver set for a SSB mode is what you should hear. And a warbly or noisy tone indicates trouble in that circuit.

More than once I've found every, single tuning slug set wrong by someone in utter frustration. Really don't know any other way to remedy that than by first auditing all three oscillator frequencies, then the 21 MHz mixer output and finally the 27 MHz result. Once that transmitter quits showing power, the least-likely cause is an alignment problem, especially if it was working normally before the fault.

And a Mark 3 transmitter from an auction, or grandpa's basement may have had several pairs of hands tweaking it before giving up.

A ham transceiver with a general-coverage receiver will do just fine. A receiver that's calibrated on frequency is a bonus, since you can set internal crystal trimmer caps that way.

Hopefully none of the tuning slugs are cracked. That's a whole separate circus. Very little chance a cracked tuning slug is already in the proper peak position.

With any luck the transmitter's mileage is low enough the mode selector switch won't break down and start smoking expensive parts.

73
 
So, this is what we often see when coil slugs have been tweaked, one by one until they're all at random settings. The tweaker finally sees the wattmeter move a little and then gives up. The way the Mark 3 mixes three oscillators to get the channel frequency leaves open a lot of tuning slugs to tweak way off of the proper peak setting. When you see the same frequency on every channel, this means the signal you're getting is a harmonic from one of the two non-channel crystals or a harmonic of just those two crystals only mixed together. Does tell you that the 16 MHz channel-crystal oscillator is not part of what's coming out of the final stage.

My favorite tool when that transmitter type is in a coma is a receiver that can tune all the separate internal frequencies. Seeing that each tuning slug shows a peak on the receiver's S-meter one circuit at a time will confirm that slug's circuit is probably okay. A slug that won't show a peak points to a fault in that coil's circuit. It's a bonus if the receiver is calibrated so you can set crystal trimmer caps. And if one of those three oscillators is having trouble, you'll hear it in the monitor receiver. A coax jumper with the shell backed over the plug body gets you a half-inch long "sniffing" antenna to hold next to the circuit you want to hear. A steady tone with the receiver set for a SSB mode is what you should hear. And a warbly or noisy tone indicates trouble in that circuit.

More than once I've found every, single tuning slug set wrong by someone in utter frustration. Really don't know any other way to remedy that than by first auditing all three oscillator frequencies, then the 21 MHz mixer output and finally the 27 MHz result. Once that transmitter quits showing power, the least-likely cause is an alignment problem, especially if it was working normally before the fault.

And a Mark 3 transmitter from an auction, or grandpa's basement may have had several pairs of hands tweaking it before giving up.

A ham transceiver with a general-coverage receiver will do just fine. A receiver that's calibrated on frequency is a bonus, since you can set internal crystal trimmer caps that way.

Hopefully none of the tuning slugs are cracked. That's a whole separate circus. Very little chance a cracked tuning slug is already in the proper peak position.

With any luck the transmitter's mileage is low enough the mode selector switch won't break down and start smoking expensive parts.

73
Its an ebay find. Its not even the same transmitter as my other mk3. Its a later one with a pot on both sides of the chassis. My other one only has 1 pot and it runs well. This bad one has been canibalized for sure. I pulled out a bunch of mods that were not original and set it back mostly. It had 2 extra crystals wired into the mode switch to expand it to 40 channels. I bet it was calibrated for broadbanding it to 40 channels and that could be the issue. In any event, im not into these mods that burn up outputs and scream loudly. I think I will govthrough the service manual and educate the schematic with common findings from my good transmitter. Interesting that it can put out just enough power to trigger my hp frequency counter but not enough to register any needle movement on my wattmeter. Im gonna scope my good one for rf voltages besides DC voltages, and make up a comparison chart. When nomad mentioned the 21mhz, I never thought Id find 28mhz 10 meter range on the output. Itsvgonna be fun to do during rainy days and cold winter days too. Thanks for your input. Much appreciated for sure. 73s
 
So, this is what we often see when coil slugs have been tweaked, one by one until they're all at random settings. The tweaker finally sees the wattmeter move a little and then gives up. The way the Mark 3 mixes three oscillators to get the channel frequency leaves open a lot of tuning slugs to tweak way off of the proper peak setting. When you see the same frequency on every channel, this means the signal you're getting is a harmonic from one of the two non-channel crystals or a harmonic of just those two crystals only mixed together. Does tell you that the 16 MHz channel-crystal oscillator is not part of what's coming out of the final stage.

My favorite tool when that transmitter type is in a coma is a receiver that can tune all the separate internal frequencies. Seeing that each tuning slug shows a peak on the receiver's S-meter one circuit at a time will confirm that slug's circuit is probably okay. A slug that won't show a peak points to a fault in that coil's circuit. It's a bonus if the receiver is calibrated so you can set crystal trimmer caps. And if one of those three oscillators is having trouble, you'll hear it in the monitor receiver. A coax jumper with the shell backed over the plug body gets you a half-inch long "sniffing" antenna to hold next to the circuit you want to hear. A steady tone with the receiver set for a SSB mode is what you should hear. And a warbly or noisy tone indicates trouble in that circuit.

More than once I've found every, single tuning slug set wrong by someone in utter frustration. Really don't know any other way to remedy that than by first auditing all three oscillator frequencies, then the 21 MHz mixer output and finally the 27 MHz result. Once that transmitter quits showing power, the least-likely cause is an alignment problem, especially if it was working normally before the fault.

And a Mark 3 transmitter from an auction, or grandpa's basement may have had several pairs of hands tweaking it before giving up.

A ham transceiver with a general-coverage receiver will do just fine. A receiver that's calibrated on frequency is a bonus, since you can set internal crystal trimmer caps that way.

Hopefully none of the tuning slugs are cracked. That's a whole separate circus. Very little chance a cracked tuning slug is already in the proper peak position.

With any luck the transmitter's mileage is low enough the mode selector switch won't break down and start smoking expensive parts.

73
Worked a little on the transmitter today. Cleaned and tightened up the tube pin contacts, went through all 23 crystals, cleaned and tightened the crystal sockets. Got some headway made. I guess some of the cans need tweeking. Some of the crystals are not tuneable. Some are off as much as 5k. A few are dead. I managed to get some power out with clear mod on AM and LSB. USB is dead. Back to the bench tomorrow or saturday.
 
Got some more done today. Thanks to nomads trick, I used my SDR as a "sniffer"and tuned in on each of the 6 mode crystals. I scoped them as well. Found the bad one on the USB side. Gonna see if I can order all the ones that are bad on the dial and mode sw and get the front end back up. Still puts out less than 2 watts on AM and a bit less on LSB. Gonna adjust the cans and see what happens. Hope they dont house any silver mica sheets inside the cans. Those can really cause problems. At least I have a baseline now. The mode switch appears to be pretty clean visibly with a 10x lighted loop. No traces of arcing and I cleaned off the tarnished areas. Im getting decent connectivity with the mode switch. Nothing appears to have been messed with as the solder connections look proper on the mode sw. Gonna do an alignment over the weekend and see if that helps any. Then try to scope out the tx path to seenif my rf gets amplified or drops. What still boggles me is that my hp freq counter cannot pick up the oscillators at all. The voltages are odd there also at 7vdc on each crystal. My plates to the 12ax7 16mhz osc are good at 150vdc. Cathodes are supposed to be 3vdc. I see 7vdc there with a 10 meg multimeter not a vtvm. My grids are supposed to be at 1.5 but I see 7vdc there also. Got called away from the bench for supper so i will check the bias resistors to see if there is a short there or from a mica cap. How strong should my oscillators be on the mode sw? I get about 200mv (I think) on the scope. There is a difference AM being the strongest but still not enough to trigger my HP.
 
Now you know why I quit trying to troubleshoot oscillators with a frequency counter. Just not sensitive enough. Tried using a preamp with a scope probe feeding it, but it was twitchy when the signal level was high enough to overdrive it and make it produce harmonics. A receiver calibrated for frequency is just so much easier. Besides, touching a 'scope probe's tip to an oscillator circuit always affects the frequency. Whatever frequency you set it to with the probe clipped on, will be different when the probe is detached.

Excellent progress, rock on!

73
 
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Now you know why I quit trying to troubleshoot oscillators with a frequency counter. Just not sensitive enough. Tried using a preamp with a scope probe feeding it, but it was twitchy when the signal level was high enough to overdrive it and make it produce harmonics. A receiver calibrated for frequency is just so much easier. Besides, touching a 'scope probe's tip to an oscillator circuit always affects the frequency. Whatever frequency you set it to with the probe clipped on, will be different when the probe is detached.

Excellent progress, rock on!

73
Thank you Sir. I so enjoy your posts and support in the hobby. Very awesome. Gonna place an order with Barkett Electronics soon.

73s
 
Hey all. I need a bunch of crystals for my mk3 ssb transmitter. I need the USB 5.6450, and on the dial I need ch 2,5,6,7,8,12,13,14,17 and 22.

I was trying to place an order with Barkett as Ive bought from them before and got stuck on the USB and many other crystals being out of stock. Messaged them and emailed them from 2 different accounts and receive no response. Are they out of business?

Please advise.
 
Ok. I got a response. Apparently Barkett sold his browning stock to a fellow in IN. I sent them an email. Hopefully I will get a response back. At the very least, i need that 5.6450 to get my usb back and I can vfo the rest.
 

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