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Camper antenna
- Thread starter r carl
- Start date
I’ll give this a shot as owner of similar. Others here are upright and walking where I’m still crawling. That said, I’ll toss in everything I can think of.
Leave the AM/FM on that AVION, IMO.
Won’t hurt take down, disassemble, clean & lube. The coax may need to be replaced.
The “same” antenna on my cousin brand SILVER STREAK is mounted around the corner near the port bow. Needs same.
I’ve openly speculated on making a needed skin repair (puncture) on mine into an antenna mount location. Problems arise:
1). While anodized 5005 is fairly thick, it still bends. Reinforcing a curved sheet means access to that backside.
2). Somewhere near roof center is the better choice.
3). To that end, most antennas worthy of using at a base are “large” versus a mobile antenna. (We aren’t in transit during use).
4). There’s a worthy thread on AIR forums (Ham Radio in Airstream) to give you an idea of how — often quite experienced HAMS — other aero all-aluminum travel trailer owners are setting up their rigs for Radio.
5). Most often — since AS owners have an unfounded & irrational fear of getting on the roof — the antenna can be of several types (as to mounts):
— Coax Lead: the antenna is separate from the vehicle. All sorts of possibilities. Where to locate the radio & associated in the interior leads to coax ingress/egress decisions. Dinette? Bedroom? Under front window?
Marine “cable glands” at skin are the answer here.
— Stern:This appears to be the most popular for “permanent” installations of a mast-type mount. Out of the winds main force during travel, and no interference with propane tanks, battery boxes, etc, as exist on the bow.
— Bow: “Maybe” the easiest where a mast needs structural steadying. The trailer tongue provides the second of three legs.
My take is that I’d like an antenna mounted TO the trailer be suitable for all mode operation whether or not I’m ever actually capable of such.
There’s a pretty fair amount of prep work ahead of time. Plan.
a). Where in the trailer will a radio or radios be located? Some want a minimal presence. Others (like me) are comfortable with “the shack” being an obvious part of the interior.
b). Coax has to be run to this location. Maybe more than one type.
c). Power has to be available. RVs aren’t electrically quiet. Would be nice to go back in time to have had the factory do the runs in EMT. And one dedicated to Radio use.
d). Conversion from AC to DC is generally under the heading, “power supply”.
What gear will be required determines the extent of electrical demand. Rule of Thumb is maximum design spec. See www.k0bg.com for all things mobile, but especially as to power demand.
Things can get past 30A in a hurry.
Fine, the man says, but I’m not going to run a rat-roasting amplifier, etc.
A good AM/SSB radio + little ol’ 203 baby amp, etc, still needs a minimum 15A service. 20A would be better.
— My point is, it may seem simple to mount gear at the dinette and snake the coax up to the roof thru the existing refrigerator vent. Then tie power into circuit for refrigerator. (Until the compressor kicks on)
I’d imagine this has served folks well where DC gear demand potential is low.
But, what if you, your son or grandson wanted to someday do “more”
I’m suggesting to take your experience in how you now enjoy the TT to survey what MIGHT be needed someday.
6). RVs are susceptible to campground and weather-related electrical damage. Antennas can add another dimension entirely (lightning). A subject to itself. (Again, the AS thread & k0bg). Plan well.
7). My solution (working towards it this year. 11-Meter SSB performance the goal): will be a wholly temporary assembly featuring, first, a push-up mast. It may be up hours or a few days. When I leave, it comes apart and is stored.
Second, this means pretty well an antenna I can move into the TT interior and prop up out of the way.
Rivermans’ recent CB ANTENNA sub-forum thread:
“Base: Hex Beam for 11-Meter!”
On the Radiowavz
“Sentinel Hex Beam 11-M Single Band Antenna”
“Looks like” a contraption I could pretty much roll into and out of the TT door. The pole can go into the pickup bed topper.
Okay, maybe it’ll fit, but will it work? (more to come on that).
8). Alright, I dragged ya across the sidewalk without a direct answer.
No
Do a VERY GOOD Radio install on the TT tow vehicle. Mobile antenna on puck mount on roof. That’ll be better than replacing the AM/FM on the TT.
1). Can’t move the TT to avoid problems at location. TV can be jimmied several directions at a campsite.
This is where Coax Lead (above) comes in. No end to antenna types NOT physically connected to trailer. Dipole hung from tree branches, etc. DIY simple & cheap.
2). I agree with the idea that a CB Vertical Mobile antenna less than 5’ in length is pretty well not worth it. 7-9’ is a whole lot better. While there are telescoping and other types (or one detaches for travel), a mount of the wall of a trailer doesn’t ever maximize the vehicle potential.
3). From the middle 1950s into about the middle 1960s the 4-5 TT manufacturers offered 108” whips mounted to a port-side wall rib for long-range AM Radio reception.
— My Dad’s 1976 Silver Streak had a factory-option JOHNSON Messenger aboard. I could reliably reach him a few miles away on my way in to his location.
— Starting in the early 1960s a collapsing TV/FM antenna was offered on a mount on the bow. Adjacent to the window.
— Pictures of both types can be found (best) in researching the Wally Byam Caravan years with AS (all over world; those folks didn’t stint. Russia or Africa or Europe)
Roof Center is still the “natural” location for an all-aluminum travel trailer. TARHEEL Lift N Lay is sure appealing (automatic)
How will you get onto and off of roof?
Is the problem I no longer want to deal with. No permanent ladder on mine. I just spent last two evenings scrubbing the monster-size roof of this 35’.
So, sure. You can stick something onto the side of the TT.
But the TV radio will perform better.
These days I have a “campground radio”. A 1977 Robyn connected to a glass-mount MIDLAND antenna. It’ll get a few hundred yards. Light power draw, short coax run, and an antenna I can unscrew and store.
To get from there and work 11-Meter skip will take a lot more of a plan.
What you want, and How you will do it is 9/10s the antenna. Where it’s mounted permanently is the big one (fixed location even if antenna comes down for travel).
An antenna SEPARATE from the TT is likely your first & easiest solution to performance of which you can be proud.
There are any number of threads here and at QRZ where guys “on expedition” have ALL sorts of solutions for mobile/portable radio use (and run contests).
.
Leave the AM/FM on that AVION, IMO.
Won’t hurt take down, disassemble, clean & lube. The coax may need to be replaced.
The “same” antenna on my cousin brand SILVER STREAK is mounted around the corner near the port bow. Needs same.
I’ve openly speculated on making a needed skin repair (puncture) on mine into an antenna mount location. Problems arise:
1). While anodized 5005 is fairly thick, it still bends. Reinforcing a curved sheet means access to that backside.
2). Somewhere near roof center is the better choice.
3). To that end, most antennas worthy of using at a base are “large” versus a mobile antenna. (We aren’t in transit during use).
4). There’s a worthy thread on AIR forums (Ham Radio in Airstream) to give you an idea of how — often quite experienced HAMS — other aero all-aluminum travel trailer owners are setting up their rigs for Radio.
5). Most often — since AS owners have an unfounded & irrational fear of getting on the roof — the antenna can be of several types (as to mounts):
— Coax Lead: the antenna is separate from the vehicle. All sorts of possibilities. Where to locate the radio & associated in the interior leads to coax ingress/egress decisions. Dinette? Bedroom? Under front window?
Marine “cable glands” at skin are the answer here.
— Stern:This appears to be the most popular for “permanent” installations of a mast-type mount. Out of the winds main force during travel, and no interference with propane tanks, battery boxes, etc, as exist on the bow.
— Bow: “Maybe” the easiest where a mast needs structural steadying. The trailer tongue provides the second of three legs.
My take is that I’d like an antenna mounted TO the trailer be suitable for all mode operation whether or not I’m ever actually capable of such.
There’s a pretty fair amount of prep work ahead of time. Plan.
a). Where in the trailer will a radio or radios be located? Some want a minimal presence. Others (like me) are comfortable with “the shack” being an obvious part of the interior.
b). Coax has to be run to this location. Maybe more than one type.
c). Power has to be available. RVs aren’t electrically quiet. Would be nice to go back in time to have had the factory do the runs in EMT. And one dedicated to Radio use.
d). Conversion from AC to DC is generally under the heading, “power supply”.
What gear will be required determines the extent of electrical demand. Rule of Thumb is maximum design spec. See www.k0bg.com for all things mobile, but especially as to power demand.
Things can get past 30A in a hurry.
Fine, the man says, but I’m not going to run a rat-roasting amplifier, etc.
A good AM/SSB radio + little ol’ 203 baby amp, etc, still needs a minimum 15A service. 20A would be better.
— My point is, it may seem simple to mount gear at the dinette and snake the coax up to the roof thru the existing refrigerator vent. Then tie power into circuit for refrigerator. (Until the compressor kicks on)
I’d imagine this has served folks well where DC gear demand potential is low.
But, what if you, your son or grandson wanted to someday do “more”
I’m suggesting to take your experience in how you now enjoy the TT to survey what MIGHT be needed someday.
6). RVs are susceptible to campground and weather-related electrical damage. Antennas can add another dimension entirely (lightning). A subject to itself. (Again, the AS thread & k0bg). Plan well.
7). My solution (working towards it this year. 11-Meter SSB performance the goal): will be a wholly temporary assembly featuring, first, a push-up mast. It may be up hours or a few days. When I leave, it comes apart and is stored.
Second, this means pretty well an antenna I can move into the TT interior and prop up out of the way.
Rivermans’ recent CB ANTENNA sub-forum thread:
“Base: Hex Beam for 11-Meter!”
On the Radiowavz
“Sentinel Hex Beam 11-M Single Band Antenna”
“Looks like” a contraption I could pretty much roll into and out of the TT door. The pole can go into the pickup bed topper.
Okay, maybe it’ll fit, but will it work? (more to come on that).
8). Alright, I dragged ya across the sidewalk without a direct answer.
No
Do a VERY GOOD Radio install on the TT tow vehicle. Mobile antenna on puck mount on roof. That’ll be better than replacing the AM/FM on the TT.
1). Can’t move the TT to avoid problems at location. TV can be jimmied several directions at a campsite.
This is where Coax Lead (above) comes in. No end to antenna types NOT physically connected to trailer. Dipole hung from tree branches, etc. DIY simple & cheap.
2). I agree with the idea that a CB Vertical Mobile antenna less than 5’ in length is pretty well not worth it. 7-9’ is a whole lot better. While there are telescoping and other types (or one detaches for travel), a mount of the wall of a trailer doesn’t ever maximize the vehicle potential.
3). From the middle 1950s into about the middle 1960s the 4-5 TT manufacturers offered 108” whips mounted to a port-side wall rib for long-range AM Radio reception.
— My Dad’s 1976 Silver Streak had a factory-option JOHNSON Messenger aboard. I could reliably reach him a few miles away on my way in to his location.
— Starting in the early 1960s a collapsing TV/FM antenna was offered on a mount on the bow. Adjacent to the window.
— Pictures of both types can be found (best) in researching the Wally Byam Caravan years with AS (all over world; those folks didn’t stint. Russia or Africa or Europe)
Roof Center is still the “natural” location for an all-aluminum travel trailer. TARHEEL Lift N Lay is sure appealing (automatic)
How will you get onto and off of roof?
Is the problem I no longer want to deal with. No permanent ladder on mine. I just spent last two evenings scrubbing the monster-size roof of this 35’.
So, sure. You can stick something onto the side of the TT.
But the TV radio will perform better.
These days I have a “campground radio”. A 1977 Robyn connected to a glass-mount MIDLAND antenna. It’ll get a few hundred yards. Light power draw, short coax run, and an antenna I can unscrew and store.
To get from there and work 11-Meter skip will take a lot more of a plan.
What you want, and How you will do it is 9/10s the antenna. Where it’s mounted permanently is the big one (fixed location even if antenna comes down for travel).
An antenna SEPARATE from the TT is likely your first & easiest solution to performance of which you can be proud.
There are any number of threads here and at QRZ where guys “on expedition” have ALL sorts of solutions for mobile/portable radio use (and run contests).
.
Last edited:
Forgot to add:
The COAX LEAD type I’ll emulate has the coax exiting the TT thru the belly pan using a cable gland to seal.
Seems an easy enough way to keep it bundled up and out of the way for travel if I make the penetration ahead of the tandems and build some sort of box or use capped PVC pipe.
How many feet (100’?) is the next Q.
Those Qs don’t end, ha!
.
The COAX LEAD type I’ll emulate has the coax exiting the TT thru the belly pan using a cable gland to seal.
Seems an easy enough way to keep it bundled up and out of the way for travel if I make the penetration ahead of the tandems and build some sort of box or use capped PVC pipe.
How many feet (100’?) is the next Q.
Those Qs don’t end, ha!
.