GE 3-5810A

[guitar_199]

This is NOT an o2a radio.

My apologies, I grabbed the wrong one initially.

Okay yours is the Matsushita M58472P. LD is pin 7... same song.
Pin 7 will be high when locked, Low when not.
And this radio does kill BOTH RCV and TX when it is not locked.

 

[Staybolt]

Yes. Channel Master had one just like it, and the very same problem. Seems the pll can goes ka flunky an d bricks the radio. This WAS a working radio until it was hooked up to a Cobra power cord and I heard a pop. These damn things use a polar opposite power cord!

.

 

[sunbulls]

IMO There is a list of things that need to be done first to that radio. The corrosive glue needs to be removed. All the electrolytic caps need to be changed. Besides a thorough visual inspection, the glue and caps should all be taken care of before the power is employed. A new power plug and a standard 4 pin mic jack would also be on that list. It’s a good restoration project for somebody like me, mainly because I have a lot of the spare parts, plus I enjoy restoring them, but I’m sure most people wouldn’t care to spend the time or money to do the job correctly.

If they're not badly rusted, I still grab them up for $5 or less at garage sales .

 

[Staybolt]

Hmm. Sams CB-155 has the "B" version.



Question was about the "A" radio. Totally different design, different vendor, different PLL chip.



Gonna see if I have Sams CB-147 in the basement. Would help.I



73

 

[Staybolt]

IMO There is a list of things that need to be done first to that radio. The corrosive glue needs to be removed. All the electrolytic caps need to be changed. Besides a thorough visual inspection, the glue and caps should all be taken care of before the power is employed. A new power plug and a standard 4 pin mic jack would also be on that list. It’s a good restoration project for somebody like me, mainly because I have a lot of the spare parts, plus I enjoy restoring them, but I’m sure most people wouldn’t care to spend the time or money to do the job correctly.







If they're not badly rusted, I still grab them up for $5 or less at garage saltooes .

I

 

[Staybolt]

I have the pll pack apart and am removing the goo crap. I found two bad blown small caps.

 

[Staybolt]

Pic

 

[Staybolt]

The destroyed black cap I need the value of. The one next to it I have already replaced.

 

[guitar_199]

The one with it's lid blown off, (lower right?) looks to be C850 a 10uF/10v tantalum by the parts list. The other one (more upper left?) looks to be C824 a 0.33uF/35 v tantalum.

 

[Staybolt]

I have no clue who that man is. Can I use regular electrolytic caps?

 

[guitar_199]

I have heard people say yes you can, and I have heard people say you shouldn't because the tantalums are felt to be more "temperature stable" and "accurate". Since this is in the PLL I would personally be inclined to stick with tantalums if at all possible.

I would welcome others to chime in with their thoughts....

 

[Staybolt]

Well ok, I already replaced them with electrolytic.

 

[guitar_199]

Well ok, I already replaced them with electrolytic.

So what's the verdict? Any positive change?

 

[sunbulls]

I have heard people say yes you can, and I have heard people say you shouldn't because the tantalums are felt to be more "temperature stable" and "accurate". Since this is in the PLL I would personally be inclined to stick with tantalums if at all possible.

I would welcome others to chime in with their thoughts....

Agreed..I replace them with an electrolytic only as a temporary solution, usually when I don’t have an exact replacement in stock. For the time being I wouldn’t worry too much about the stability of an AM only radio. It’s not SSB where drift needs to be kept to a minimum.

 

[Staybolt]

I haven't done much else to it. I will later on. Got busy with another project.