need a picture of the inside of an HR2510 centered on L34
I can't recall the orientation of the torrid coil
I can't recall the orientation of the torrid coil
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need a picture of the inside of an HR2510 centered on L34
- Thread starter mr_fx
- Start date
I assume you mean L134 in between the driver / final? Or something else?
It’s always a good idea to take some pics or notes when removing parts you may be unsure of when reinstalling. I like to take detailed pictures just in case; my memory is not always the greatest!
It’s always a good idea to take some pics or notes when removing parts you may be unsure of when reinstalling. I like to take detailed pictures just in case; my memory is not always the greatest!
The issue was this part was fried... haha
Thank you,from the picture I can't tell where the 2 skinny legs go and where the twisted thick leg goes...
Could I bother you for another picture?
Thank you,from the picture I can't tell where the 2 skinny legs go and where the twisted thick leg goes...
Could I bother you for another picture?
Are you sure the part was fried. That part has some glue on it and it is common for the glue to dry up and harden and darken and then it becomes hygroscopic and that can cause the copper wire to corrode. This could look like the appearance that would be associated with a part that has been thermally over-dissapated.
oh yes quite sure, basically what happened here is he guy added variable power (looks like the rogerbird method to me) he did not do a very good job and I mistakenly fired he radio up and he variable power lead had shorted to ground
the wire inside of he coil is just gone, lol, it was pretty funny, soon as I removed the glue, he only thing left was the leads, and a little glue
the wire inside of he coil is just gone, lol, it was pretty funny, soon as I removed the glue, he only thing left was the leads, and a little glue
cracked mine open to snap a pic for ya.....hope it helps
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3614-2013-01250012.jpg
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3615-2013-01250010.jpg
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3616-2013-01250011.jpg
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3614-2013-01250012.jpg
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3615-2013-01250010.jpg
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/khayman669-albums-misc-picture3616-2013-01250011.jpg
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WOW.... that sucks.
Sorry to hear that.
If you work on radios a bit then you might find something like the following to be useful just for the prevention of this scenario.
An easy way to is to put a light bulb in series with the power supply lead.
By a light bulb I mean an automotive lamp.
I use the stop/turn combination lamp.
That gives me four choices of current limiting.
I typically only use one of the choices, but have the other choices available if desired. (Depends on the typical current demands of the device being tested.)
The bulb will prevent damage to the circuitry in the radio and at the same time it indicates if there is a problem.
When you see that the radio appears to be ok (by the brightness of the bulb) then you can just close a switch that bypasses around the bulb/current limiting device and then the radio receives full voltage.
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Wire one is 1 turn.
Wire two is 4 turns.
Wire one and two connected together (opposing phase) in hole furthest from back of radio
Wire one (other end) is connected to hole closest to final pa device.
Wire two (other end) is connected to the remaing empty hole. (closest to driver transistor)
I will supplement this with pictures after a bit.
Wire two is 4 turns.
Wire one and two connected together (opposing phase) in hole furthest from back of radio
Wire one (other end) is connected to hole closest to final pa device.
Wire two (other end) is connected to the remaing empty hole. (closest to driver transistor)
I will supplement this with pictures after a bit.
I finally got some pictures put on here. ( my first time doing that )
But I still have to complete the task and am a little uncertain as how to do it.
If you need additional info such as more pictures then I will attempt to get them on here.
You should have seen it before I removed some of the glue.
There was a lot of glue on it.
While I was removing glue I managed to break one of the wires and that is why you see it removed from the radio. I decided it would be a lot easier to restore the wire to its proper length if I removed it from the radio; And also that would allow for a much better picture of it.
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/radiooman-albums-l134-picture3620-l134c.jpg
Topside of this goes towards the fron of the radio.
The long wire on the left goes in the hole on the board that is closest to the final pa device.
And is the wire that only makes 1 turn thru the toroid and is wound in opposite phase with the other wire that has 4 turns thru the toroid.
The next wire to the right of the long wire on the left is where wire 1 and wire 2 go into the hole on the board that is closest to the front of the radio.
http://www.worldwidedx.com/members/radiooman-albums-l134-picture3618-l134f.jpg
Topside of this picture is the side that goes toward the back of the radio