So here's a quirk that comes up more and more often lately.
Pride DX300 amplifier, stuck on "Low" side, no matter which way you flip the High/Low switch.
The front-panel "High/Standy/Low" switch has two sections. One of them has a red and an orange wire. This is the standby side.
The other side of the switch has two brown wires. This side selects High or Low.
The factory crimped a 1/4-inch "Faston" lug to each wire, and they slide onto the lugs on the switch. Turns out the factory used lugs meant for larger wire. Takes a few decades for the contact between the stripped end of the brown wires and the lug to go bad.
Simply removing the Faston lug from each brown wire and soldering them directly to the lugs on the switch will fix this problem. Just be easy on the heat. The plastic body of the switch is easily distorted by soldering heat. Tinning the stripped end of each brown wire will reduce the heat needed to solder them to the switch.
I have seen this symptom frustrate a handful of folks, only to find out how simple the fix was.
73
Pride DX300 amplifier, stuck on "Low" side, no matter which way you flip the High/Low switch.
The front-panel "High/Standy/Low" switch has two sections. One of them has a red and an orange wire. This is the standby side.
The other side of the switch has two brown wires. This side selects High or Low.
The factory crimped a 1/4-inch "Faston" lug to each wire, and they slide onto the lugs on the switch. Turns out the factory used lugs meant for larger wire. Takes a few decades for the contact between the stripped end of the brown wires and the lug to go bad.
Simply removing the Faston lug from each brown wire and soldering them directly to the lugs on the switch will fix this problem. Just be easy on the heat. The plastic body of the switch is easily distorted by soldering heat. Tinning the stripped end of each brown wire will reduce the heat needed to solder them to the switch.
I have seen this symptom frustrate a handful of folks, only to find out how simple the fix was.
73
