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Question about a little Scout I just bought


Bad link. Take a photo of the amp and post it. Most probably it is a Mini Scout or regular Scout....how many tubes and what kind will answer the question. If the light you are referring to is behind a screw on lens it will show output. A #47 bulb is what it uses in both cases.
 
i seen that one on ebay. didnt it have 3 lights.? i think the one i got only has 2 lights. 1 red light and one small green light. i think the red one on mine lights up when you modulate. the green lights up when you power it up. its been a while since i used it. if you want to buy another one mines for sale and its in mint brand new shape.
 
Yeah, someone added it. My guess is that they wanted a "standby/on" light as well. The amp is in the mail so I will see what's up in a couple of days.
Edit: It has a single 6CA7/EL34 tube.
 

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mine is brown. 3 toggle switches. on / off, standby; and a ssb switch. tried to load a pic but was to big. yours looks like the color and type of style my scout 20, 8 tuber looks like.
 
190 said:
mine is brown. 3 toggle switches. on / off, standby; and a ssb switch. tried to load a pic but was to big. yours looks like the color and type of style my scout 20, 8 tuber looks like.
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Mine has two different length switches. The one on the right (standby) is longer. I bet the short one for power is the stock one...right? I wonder if that added light is hooked to that standby switch. It would be nice to have a light for the standby so I don't accidently run all that power through my sweep tube amp.
 
The left switch should be for power, the right for Standby. Red lamp for power, green lamp for power output. The 6CA7 is an acceptable replacement for the original 8417 tube with a few changes. Yours will be an earlier version of the tan ones.
 
Bionic Chicken said:
The left switch should be for power, the right for Standby. Red lamp for power, green lamp for power output. The 6CA7 is an acceptable replacement for the original 8417 tube with a few changes. Yours will be an earlier version of the tan ones.
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What I was asking is did it come with the long or short style toggle? I'm sure it didn't come with 2 different length switches...right? I would like to have both switches be of the same type just for cosmetics. I probably will just use a rubber plug where that added light is just to get it back to looking like a stocker.
What kind of power should I see with my old Robyn modulating about 12 watts?
 
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V8Vega said:
What I was asking is did it come with the long or short style toggle? I'm sure it didn't come with 2 different length switches...right? I would like to have both switches be of the same type just for cosmetics. I probably will just use a rubber plug where that added light is just to get it back to looking like a stocker.
What kind of power should I see with my old Robyn modulating about 12 watts?
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You are correct. When new both toggle switches would have been the same. They should have been short metal toggles. Depending on what type of wattmeter you use peak wattage should be between 75 to 90 watts. Set the dead key from 6 to 15 watts max. If you use this amp to drive a larger amp you will need to drop the dead key to 2 watts or so. Using it for a driver will also shorten the lives of the tubes in the larger amp. That is unless you are driving an amp with 572B's or a single 3-500Z.
 
Bionic Chicken said:
You are correct. When new both toggle switches would have been the same. They should have been short metal toggles. Depending on what type of wattmeter you use peak wattage should be between 75 to 90 watts. Set the dead key from 6 to 15 watts max. If you use this amp to drive a larger amp you will need to drop the dead key to 2 watts or so. Using it for a driver will also shorten the lives of the tubes in the larger amp. That is unless you are driving an amp with 572B's or a single 3-500Z.
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Cool, thank you. I'm just gonna use it for local "round table" BSing so I can get out a little better and save the sweep tube amp for more important work. My old Robyn sounds great, but is a weakling.
 
V8Vega said:
Cool, thank you. I'm just gonna use it for local "round table" BSing so I can get out a little better and save the sweep tube amp for more important work. My old Robyn sounds great, but is a weakling.
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That will be a perfect setup. I'd set the dead key around 6-7 watts and let it swing. You might find you have to turn your mike gain or mike down just a bit when using it as it will increase your transmitted audio. Keep watch on the tube to make sure the plates (metal part inside tube) do not turn red. The 6CA7 is a good tube and should provide many years of reliable service.

Just be careful not to drop it into the sweep tube amp without dropping the dead key or you will let the smoke out.:oops:
 
Bionic Chicken said:
Just be careful not to drop it into the sweep tube amp without dropping the dead key or you will let the smoke out.:oops:
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Yeah...I know. That's why I said in a previous post that I thought the standby light would be a good idea and I bet that's why the light was added plus the switch was changed. I have a feeling somebody made that exact mistake. My electronics knowledge is next to nothing so when it gets here, I will have you guys help me out with that added light. If it is a standby indicator, I think I should keep it and make it work. I have another P.O.S. modulator that I have done that exact same thing with. I blame it on the beer and the truckers.
 
A good idea will be NOT to have the sweep tube amp inline with the Mini Scout. That will save a BOO BOO. I've messed up many amps whilst letting Budweiser run the show but was lucky I could fix them when it happened. A switchbox might be a good solution to that problem for you. But you would need two switch boxes and a dummy load to make it work right. One switch would swap amps, the other one would swap the load, either antenna or the dummy load. You might switch one but not the other and the dummy load would be the safety valve.
 

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