Sidebar Sidebar
  • You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.

uniden pc 68 xl..... mosfet..... maybe?

O

oldslowchevy

Guest
hi everyone. i am not new to cb's at all though i am new to working on them.
i did do a swing mod that works really good but it was sujested to install a 2sc1969 final in it. though i am haveing a very hard time finding a "real" 1969 final,....soooooo i just left the stock final in the radio.

so looking around i found 1 final a tip120 specs are:

power dissipataion 65watts

collector emitter votage 60 volt

collector base voltage 60 volt

emitter base voltage 5 volt

collector current (continuous) 5 amp (peak) 8 amp

base current 120 ma



the other that i have is a mofset a irf510 it's spec are as follows:


Vdss =100 volt

vgs +- 20 volt

Ip = 4 amp

dm = 16 amp

Igm =1.5 amp

Pd = 20 watt

both of these were bought at radio shack and item numbers are 276-2068 for the tip120 and 276-2072 for the mosfet.

which of these are worth it or are they? if the mosfet is... is it a plug and play or is there more work to be done?

i do not know what the stock final is in the radio and to be honest i am to lazy to take the radio back apart to look to look...... sorry.

i have seen nothing on the net about convertto the mosfets that i could make heads or tails of......... i'm not that bright...... but i can lift heavy things.
 

thank you rob, it does seem to be a bit of work but nothing all that bad.

i am not sure if i will go this route or not though. i saw the one final (TIP120) was good to 60 watts which is why i picked it up. the i have heard a few things about the IRF510 mosfets being the new way to go.

i would like to get a real 1969 and just be done with it. i just can not tell the diffrence between the old ones and the current fakes out there, sooooo i think for now i will just leave the stock final in there till i learn some more.
 
oldslowchevy said:
thank you rob, it does seem to be a bit of work but nothing all that bad.

i am not sure if i will go this route or not though. i saw the one final (TIP120) was good to 60 watts which is why i picked it up. the i have heard a few things about the IRF510 mosfets being the new way to go.

i would like to get a real 1969 and just be done with it. i just can not tell the diffrence between the old ones and the current fakes out there, sooooo i think for now i will just leave the stock final in there till i learn some more.
Click to expand...

Company called 'Eleflow' from the UK (NOT China!) sells REAL 1969 transistors.
They actually make them better than the originals.
They sell them on Ebay; that one you can trust to work.
 
Last edited:
bench numbers.

this morning i have to take a defective radio (unmodified and brand new) back for replacement. but while i was there i had them put my uniden on the bench meter and here are the results, hopefully someone can answer some questions i have though.

rms power.... dead key 2 watts with a signal generater swings to 12-13 watts.


peak power... dead key 1/2 a watt and again with a signal general will swing to 35-38 watts.


question time now.

why is the dead key higher on rms vs peak?

now this question is more of a bling bling question.... how hard is it to change the light in the power meter ans the channel display? the s meter has a white bulb and the channle display is red and i would like to change that to green as well. (green car..... i like green ok..... get off my back man.... gezz) lol
 
Was this a cb shop that tested your radio? I'm having a problem with those numbers I guess. The dead key reading should not change and there is no way a stock Uniden 68 even after a peak and tune will swing 12-13 RMS or 35-38 watts PEP.

If you do the 1969 final mod don't forget to change the driver as well or you won't see much if any improvement.
 
9C1Driver said:
Was this a cb shop that tested your radio? I'm having a problem with those numbers I guess. The dead key reading should not change and there is no way a stock Uniden 68 even after a peak and tune will swing 12-13 RMS or 35-38 watts PEP.

If you do the 1969 final mod don't forget to change the driver as well or you won't see much if any improvement.
Click to expand...

yes i took it to them to see what i was getting out of it, manly because i have a very cheap meter that i know is not right.

here is a link to the mod that i did though i did change a few things.

Mark-Rodgers.com: Uniden PC 66 and PC 68 Audio and Power Mods

it is said to use a 35 volt 220 uf capacitor i used a 440uf, also it says to use a 10 ohm resister and i used a 100 ohm. lastly he says to remove q 14 which is the mod limiter, i did not do this and i am still very loud and not bleeding over other channels modulation acording to my meter is just a tad over 100% where before the mods i was getting 45-50%. the other reason i did not take the mod limiter out was because i do not want to take some thing out if i am not replacing it with something else.

i have seen a lot of really bad hack work and i would like to try at the very least to be better than that. i by no means am a tech, just a hobbist looking to advance some of knowlage.

i have been getting reports that the radio sounds very clean and very stout, no one knows that i did these mods myself and they keep asking me where i took it to get the work done, i just answer back with some one new..... atleast i am not fibbing...:whistle:

you say if i do chang the final that i also would have to change the driver. please excuse my utter and complete ignorace when i ask this....... what is the driver???..... i always thought that the driver and final were the same thing just different people calling the same part a different name..... guess i was wrong huh.
 
9C1Driver said:
If you do the 1969 final mod don't forget to change the driver as well or you won't see much if any improvement.
Click to expand...



can you or some one else please explain what you mean by the driver...... i am new to working on the radio, and i always thought the driver was the final.


also yesterday i took out the internal speaker since i always run an external speaker and put a 4" fan inside. one question though, i have this where it runs all the time. is there a way i can hook it up that it will turn on and off as i turn the radio on and off.....:unsure:
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.


      Top Bottom
      Back