My Ameritron AL-80a came a Buck Boost can anyone explain what this is in laymens terms
Thanks
Jerry
Thanks
Jerry
-
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What is a "Buck Boost"
- Thread starter KENWOOD570
- Start date
A 'buck/boost' circuit basically either 'bucks' too high an input voltage, or 'boosts' too low of an input voltage to the primary power transformer. In other words, the input voltage circuit is such that if the AC voltage is higher than needed it can be reduced to what's called for. Same if the AC voltage is lower than needed. That type of transformer is slightly more costly because it has three primary windings instead of just one. (Actually it has three (or more) sets of taps on the primary winding, not that many separate primary windings.) Why doesn't everything come that way? First, because it's more expensive. And second, you can "mis-use" that feature to increase the output from the amplifier because of the higher voltage (NOT a good thing at all! Raises @#$$ with all the rest of the parts of the amplifier!). Very nice feature if used correctly.
- 'Doc
- 'Doc
"Buck Boost" is a means of increasing the volume of the sound made by chickens.
No reason for this has ever been reported.
No reason for this has ever been reported.
lords
Active Member
Beetle said:
lol dam, living out here in WI ,I get a lot of that in the morning...
thank god there ain't no roosters around
that amp is more then you think.. never underrate what they can do and why that is there..not saying to overdrive it..but short keyups can't hurt
take it from a man that gets 1000 watts out of 1 3-500Z triode
Buck and Boost normally refer to the operation of a switchmode power supply. Though it may also be something else, but I will stick with what I know, the operation of switchmodes.
Lets start with BOOST since it is the easiest to understand.
You may have played with a large coil and a car battery.
You connect the coil across the terminals and nothing much appears to happen, but when you take the coil off you receive one hell of a jolt from the Back EMF.
The coil is like the flywheel in an engine. When you pass current through a coil, it builds up a magnetic field. When you disconnect the power, the coil wants to keep the amount of current flowing. It will build up a tremendous voltage trying to do it as the magnetic field breaks down.
So our switchmode circuit consists of a transistor in series with an inductor between +VDC and Earth. Lets say the 12V car battery. At the positive terminal of the coil is a doide in series with a capacitor to earth.
We switch on the transistor and current flows in the coil.
Now we switch off the transistor and the back EMF is created in the coil, this flows through the diode and charges the capacitor. The voltage across this capacitor quickly builds up to something much greater than the source voltage.
We sample this voltage and adjust the switching of the voltage to regulate the higher output voltage.
So a boost circuit takes a small DC voltage and boosts it up to a higher voltage. The output voltage is always higher.
A BUCK converter is the opposite. The output voltage is always lower (but with more current).
In the buck converter, the inductor and diode are swapped around in the circuit. Now we turn the transistor on and current starts to flow through the inductor from the much higher voltage source. But the voltage is not instantly on at the output, instead it takes time to rise. When the correct voltage is obtained across the capacitor the transistor switches off. The coil will now continue to maintane the same amount of current to the capacitor and load with the reutrn curent path through the diode.
But the coil cannot provide this current indefinitely and eventually the voltage across the capacitor will drop where one again we turn on the transistor in a very short pulse to push the coil's current once again.
A BUCKBOOST converter is a hybrid of both.
The output voltage can be either higher voltage or higher current than the input source.
If we take the same circuit as the boost converter, but reverse the diode polarity, we find that when we turn on the transistor we 'spin up' the inductor as before, but now turning the transistor off effectively switches the load into circuit.
The output voltage can be made eithe higher or lower than the input voltage by adjusting the duration of the switching.
The output voltage of a buckboost converter is always reversed from that of the source voltage.
The are most often used to generate negative power rails from a single positive rail supply.
Lets start with BOOST since it is the easiest to understand.
You may have played with a large coil and a car battery.
You connect the coil across the terminals and nothing much appears to happen, but when you take the coil off you receive one hell of a jolt from the Back EMF.
The coil is like the flywheel in an engine. When you pass current through a coil, it builds up a magnetic field. When you disconnect the power, the coil wants to keep the amount of current flowing. It will build up a tremendous voltage trying to do it as the magnetic field breaks down.
So our switchmode circuit consists of a transistor in series with an inductor between +VDC and Earth. Lets say the 12V car battery. At the positive terminal of the coil is a doide in series with a capacitor to earth.
We switch on the transistor and current flows in the coil.
Now we switch off the transistor and the back EMF is created in the coil, this flows through the diode and charges the capacitor. The voltage across this capacitor quickly builds up to something much greater than the source voltage.
We sample this voltage and adjust the switching of the voltage to regulate the higher output voltage.
So a boost circuit takes a small DC voltage and boosts it up to a higher voltage. The output voltage is always higher.
A BUCK converter is the opposite. The output voltage is always lower (but with more current).
In the buck converter, the inductor and diode are swapped around in the circuit. Now we turn the transistor on and current starts to flow through the inductor from the much higher voltage source. But the voltage is not instantly on at the output, instead it takes time to rise. When the correct voltage is obtained across the capacitor the transistor switches off. The coil will now continue to maintane the same amount of current to the capacitor and load with the reutrn curent path through the diode.
But the coil cannot provide this current indefinitely and eventually the voltage across the capacitor will drop where one again we turn on the transistor in a very short pulse to push the coil's current once again.
A BUCKBOOST converter is a hybrid of both.
The output voltage can be either higher voltage or higher current than the input source.
If we take the same circuit as the boost converter, but reverse the diode polarity, we find that when we turn on the transistor we 'spin up' the inductor as before, but now turning the transistor off effectively switches the load into circuit.
The output voltage can be made eithe higher or lower than the input voltage by adjusting the duration of the switching.
The output voltage of a buckboost converter is always reversed from that of the source voltage.
The are most often used to generate negative power rails from a single positive rail supply.
Doc is correct.Buck/boost pertains to the voltage on the primary of a transformer being increased or decreased to allow for variations in AC line voltage. Some old timers would use a separate filament transformer secondary winding in series with the plate transformer's primary winding and wired so as to either boost or buck the voltage applied to the transformer depending on what was required.
Boy this is deeper then I thought!!
One more question it has 3 ways to wire the amp
A. Voltage 120/240 (this is the way it is wired and has a twist lock type of wall plug)
B. Voltage 115/235
C. Voltage 110/230
Which one do I use to plug into a standard house plug
Thanks
for all your help
Jerry
One more question it has 3 ways to wire the amp
A. Voltage 120/240 (this is the way it is wired and has a twist lock type of wall plug)
B. Voltage 115/235
C. Voltage 110/230
Which one do I use to plug into a standard house plug
Thanks
for all your help
Jerry
lords
Active Member
C ..you have to look in the book for the 110,115,120 ac hook up ...
for 100/110/120/210/220/230 VAC operation.
Shipped with transformer installed
and wired for 120 VAC for domestic model
or 240 VAC for export model.
when you bought it ,you should of asked them to have it ready for 110,115,120 volts (domestic model)
and don't forget to cut the green wire for 10-11 meter
let me know if you need the manual for the 115 ac conversion..you also need the power cord for 115ac
good luck...and let that tube burn in a bit
for 100/110/120/210/220/230 VAC operation.
Shipped with transformer installed
and wired for 120 VAC for domestic model
or 240 VAC for export model.
when you bought it ,you should of asked them to have it ready for 110,115,120 volts
(domestic model)and don't forget to cut the green wire for 10-11 meter
let me know if you need the manual for the 115 ac conversion..you also need the power cord for 115ac
good luck...and let that tube burn in a bit
Lords, so it is wired for "A". 120/240 and it need to be wired for "C" 110/230. So I need to change the jumpers wires and get a new cord with a standard 3 prong plug. I am sure if I understand.
Sorry to sound dumb
Thanks
Jerry
Sorry to sound dumb
Thanks
Jerry
lords
Active Member
ok, your kinda looking at it wrong...
Its like this
100/110/120/ domestic
210/220/230 export
A multi-voltage heavy-duty transformer with a unique "buck-boost" winding allows
adjustment of the primary voltage to 14 different voltages centered on 115 and 230 Vac. This
versatile Ameritron feature allows the user to select the optimum primary voltage for maximum
performance and life.
thats for the AL-80A 1000watt linear
heres the manual it shows what to do with this...if you don't have that setup in the transformer...then you have the updated transformer for AL-80B which is the same but has jumpers..
AL-80A
AL-80B
and yes a 3 prong one will do fine...
let us know how it comes out
Its like this
100/110/120/ domestic
210/220/230 export
A multi-voltage heavy-duty transformer with a unique "buck-boost" winding allows
adjustment of the primary voltage to 14 different voltages centered on 115 and 230 Vac. This
versatile Ameritron feature allows the user to select the optimum primary voltage for maximum
performance and life.
thats for the AL-80A 1000watt linear
heres the manual it shows what to do with this...if you don't have that setup in the transformer...then you have the updated transformer for AL-80B which is the same but has jumpers..
AL-80A
AL-80B
and yes a 3 prong one will do fine...
let us know how it comes out
Jerry,
It all depends on what the normal voltage of your wall outlets is. If it's what the amplifier is wired for, no problem, just pug it in. If it's not the same, then it's a good idea to change the amplifier's wiring.
The outlet voltage isn't the same all over the country. It can vary from 110 Volts to a little over 120 volts. Depends mainly on where/how your power company gets it's power from. The 'typical' line voltage is 120 volts AC, usually, sort of. Not sure what you have? Then I think I'd ask someone locally, or measure it with a volt meter.
- 'Doc
It all depends on what the normal voltage of your wall outlets is. If it's what the amplifier is wired for, no problem, just pug it in. If it's not the same, then it's a good idea to change the amplifier's wiring.
The outlet voltage isn't the same all over the country. It can vary from 110 Volts to a little over 120 volts. Depends mainly on where/how your power company gets it's power from. The 'typical' line voltage is 120 volts AC, usually, sort of. Not sure what you have? Then I think I'd ask someone locally, or measure it with a volt meter.
- 'Doc
lords
Active Member
W5LZ said:
well it really don't matter as that 'A' version of the linear is only 115 and 230 Vac which is well suited for his needs seeing though he said he didn't have a 220/230 socket
the 'A' version has wires an screws for the settings and only 115/230 the 'B' version has jumpers and has multi settings
but some of the 'A versions have been updated with the newer transformer 'B' version
Wow, now I am totally confused? The person I got it from said it is wired for 220? Now what? I guess I have to run a 220 outlet to my operater room.
Boy-o-Boy!!
Jerry
Boy-o-Boy!!
Jerry
lords
Active Member
KENWOOD570 said:
no..dude, look in the manual I gave you ..change the wires to the 110-120 volt setting...then use using a regular 3 prong plug ,take one from a power strip if you need to (GREEN to BODY GROUND ON THE LINEAR)
here is the settings....
If you need to snap a pic of the plug to the transformer and post it and it will show you what to do
- No one is chatting at the moment.