Recent content by loosecannon

thats cool! ive always wanted to build one of Mr. Carlson's designs. LC

can you give us some details about what you did? this will help others who run across this thread in the future. LC

wait, im confused. when you say "get no power" do you mean no transmit wattage or do you mean the radio goes dark, like no power to the radio? LC

thank you for drawing that up Brandon! Where did you get "Ltotal" value from? was it just a random guess to use for the example? now we need to see what value cap Carl put in there! LC

yes that's the one. here's another screenshot. just to give credit where credit is due, this is Reverend Bow's mod. LC

best of luck finding enough 20LF6's these days. if you can't find them, one option is to get a high current 6 volt transformer and use it for the filaments so you can run 6LF6's. LC

the two lamps are wired in series as shown here: this means that if one goes out they both go out. here is a link to that schematic: https://cbtricks.org/radios/rci/rci_2950/graphics/rci2950_cpu_dpt295040z_sch.pdf Here is a pic of where the lamps are located. if you're not sure of your...

sure would love to see some nice pics of the inside of this amp! LC

yep, it was known as the "supermod". its a way to lower the deadkey while keeping the max modulation swing. you should see two wires coming from the kit that go into the PC board where a diode was. its a rectifier diode. the idea is that each additional diode put in series with this diode...

here's a snip of the schematic for anyone wanting to play along. This is for the 69 base. This shows that VR12 is for both pre-driver and driver, and VR10 is for both finals. so it would seem that it's correct to set each of them for 100mA above quiescent current, but Nomad has me...

here ya go! https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/oh-no-mr-bill-rci2995dx-shorted-q66.265942/#post-811267 as always thank you to NomadRadio for these great tutorials! LC

if the AM deadkey wattage seems very high, and the radio won't modulate, the AM regulator is probably blown. its the big transistor bolted to the right side of the chassis in the back (Q66). unsolder its legs from the PC board and check it using a transistor checker or a DVM. if you find Q66...

right at the beginning of that video, he shows the metal plate on the back of the motor, then he takes the cover off of the new motor to show the gears. that silver metal plate on the original motor is notorious for backing out enough for those two gears to lose good contact. re-seating that...

just so it gets mentioned, you should know how to discharge the HV caps before doing any work on a tube radio. just because its unplugged doesn't mean its safe. you should definitely remove the tubes before cleaning the chassis. as for cleaning the pots and switches, yes using something like...

ive seen the channel encoder on these things go bad and cause strange problems like this. they use a very substandard encoder on these radios, and some users just spin them like they are a VFO and can wear them out. still just a guess though. if you want to try a replacement, there is a place...